SOLVED -Has anyone installed an aftermarket keyless entry on a 87 Dodge Daytona ShelbyZ successfully?

Thanks BIll for the clarification,
Before putting it on the car, last night I bench tested your set-up with a 12v battery and voltmeter to see if everything will work properly with the Avital. It kind of did. I could hear the relays clicking and checked for voltages and continuity. Everything seemed to work as it should, sometimes. I could hear the lock relay had one click and the unlock two clicks. Sometimes the unlock relay would not always click properly ( I would have to push the unlock button several times) and sometimes inititate several seconds after pushing the remote button and somtimes I would hear a third click much later. When that happens I would not get a signal. Not sure, but I probably fried it earlier or maybe one of the relays was always bad in the Avital. I ordered another one and will see how that behaves. The saga continues...

Thank you Bill the door drawing and the book helps a lot. I don't know how I will ever repay you. These are some valuable resources. When finished I'll post a summary write-up with pictures for the next person who wants to put in a remote keyless entry in our cars.

Bummer the splice X2-6 is inside the door. After replacing the window scrapers I thought I would never have to go into the door again, but now I can easily take it apart without breaking anything. Also a bummer is that the cowl end harness is difficult to get to. I can barely reach up in there with the side kick panel off. I don't want to break anyhting all the wiring and attachments seem fragile.


On the bright side the X2 ground is right there close to the floor and the power-seat power W5 12 gauge red wire is also right there (as seen in this picutre dangling behind the emergency brake foot pedal) for easy connection to +12V connection. I think all I'll need to do is run two wires to the X2 splice inside the door to cut and solder to the gray lock and unlock wires. I can hide the Avital box behind the kick panel. What do you think?

Big thanks to Bill (85LebaronT2) for helping me, I couldn’t have done it without his wisdom.

These instructions are for 1987 Dodge Daytonas and possibly other late 80’s Chryslers with reverse polarity door lock systems. The keyless entry system using the DEI/ Avital # 2101L (and the similar DEI/ Viper 451m). This setup is for basic lock/unlocking.
The Avital manual is here online: https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N2101L_2009-01_web.pdf


Here is the list of connections as seen in the picture

I bunched all the ground wires together (Black, Wh/blk and Br/blk)

I bunched all the +12V together (Red and Violet)

Gr/blk wire goes to Gray lock wire

Bl/blk wire goes to Gray unlock wire

This setup will leave the stock switches functional, and the Avital will also be able to lock and unlock your doors. The Avital’ s unused wires can be cut off or saved in a bundle for later use. I did not need to use the horn function or the light blinking function as the locks make so much noise, I can hear them far away.

First go into the door harness. Looking behind the door lock switch the gray wire next to the orange is the LOCK wire and the gray wire next to the pink is the UNLOCK wire. The splice where both join to a common ground is located about 4 inches from the button switch in the harness. You can see the bulge at the taped harness, there is also a thinner gray wire spliced into all this that goes to the power side mirrors. Cut only the two gray 14-gauge wires that go from the switch to the splice (before the splice), disconnecting it from the switch. You will connect additional wires to these.



Connect two wires or I used a cord and note which is lock and unlock wires, Fish the two wires thru the rubber door jamb boot. Thought the rubber boot would be fraglie, even after 35 years it is pliable. To make it easy to feed thru the boot I dislodged the boot end at the body to slowly feed if thru, with one hand inside the door and the other hand moving the boot around to feed the wire thru.


Inside the car remove the lower dash and side kick panel. Can be done without removing the lower dash but better to see everything.
Then feed your two wires/cord into the body and behind the wires next to the foot brake.



I placed the Avital behind the kick panel underside of the dash.

The ground wires can be connected to the existing ground screw behind the kick panel.

The +12v power I connected to the existing Red power-seat connector also located there.

Lastly connected the lock and unlock wires to the Avital accordingly.

Boom everything works, even with the remote more than 30ft. away. Took two and half hours, but I had prior experience taking the door trim off from before, replacing/rebuilding the window scrapers.

85lebaront2 said:

That is the original interior color for mine, loads of fun finding material to match.

Click to expand...

It hasn't been a problem so far. We bought the Shelby with the speaker cover on the lower door missing, however, the frame was there. My older son goes to Virginia Tech whose colors are dark red-maroon. Same maroon as our interior. I used one of his old Va-Tech sweatshirts, turned it inside out and the fleece fabric looks just like our interior carpet. Cut, stretched and wrapped it across the speaker frame and it matches.
Another tip I found strolling thru Home Depot one day is Outdoor Fabric Spray Paint. Parts of the interior have faded. Home Depot has dark red/maroon fabric spray paint. I've tested a small area of the seat and it is a perfect color match. It soaks in well and blends into the fabric, unlike regular spray paint that would sit on the top, it blends into the fabric like dye. The last step of our restoration is to detail, fully vacuum-steam clean the interior and then repaint some areas of the interior that have faded, to make it look new again.
Here is the fabric spray paint: