Joined
·
1,835 Posts
Sounds like a plan, as far as the tight access, if you unbolt the parking brake, it will lay on the carpet under the brake pedal. Also, that's what nice limber 16 year olds are for. Did you remove the bottom of the dash?
SOLVED -Has anyone installed an aftermarket keyless entry on a 87 Dodge Daytona ShelbyZ successfully?
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Joined
·
12,345 Posts
if it helps to know
there is only one door harness in a daytona
it runs from the back of the drivers door , out the front into the door jamb then up and across the cowel to the passenger side . down to the jamb and into the passenger door
it plugs into the dash harness at both sides .. just up behind the bottom corners of the dash where you'll find a grey 25 way connector on each side of the car
rear body and console harness' also connect at those 25 way connectors
none of the above applies to an 84 though..compleately different kind of horse
there is only one door harness in a daytona
it runs from the back of the drivers door , out the front into the door jamb then up and across the cowel to the passenger side . down to the jamb and into the passenger door
it plugs into the dash harness at both sides .. just up behind the bottom corners of the dash where you'll find a grey 25 way connector on each side of the car
rear body and console harness' also connect at those 25 way connectors
none of the above applies to an 84 though..compleately different kind of horse
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
Sounds just like my K wiring. the lock harness goes all the way across from the left door to the right kick panel area where the connector hides behind the logic module.
Joined
·
12,345 Posts
yep sounds simular
the 87-89 J body lebarons were slightly different in lay out as the lighter and ash tray light wires come down at the center of the dash
though the J body dash or door wiring isn't interchangable..at least not so if you want the power mirrors to work
the 87-89 J body lebarons were slightly different in lay out as the lighter and ash tray light wires come down at the center of the dash
though the J body dash or door wiring isn't interchangable..at least not so if you want the power mirrors to work
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
You would enjoy my project, 1986 Lebaron K convertible, 1989 J body convertible dash and modified console. Underhood updated to 2001 Sebring PDC and using 1991 Shadow 2.5L T1 air filter system. Interior wiring used 1990 Lebaron J convertible harness to get the relay center and large interior fuse box.
Joined
·
24 Posts
Well my son was off school today, so I took some time off too and we tackled installing the DEI/ Avital # 2101L. A big thank you to Bill for helping me.... 2 weeks of posting/planning on here, 2.5 hours for installing and it is finised. Everything works, nothing broken on the car and best of all no blown fuses.
Thank you Bill.
Thank you Bill.
Joined
·
24 Posts
Big thanks to Bill (85LebaronT2) for helping me, I couldn’t have done it without his wisdom.
These instructions are for 1987 Dodge Daytonas and possibly other late 80’s Chryslers with reverse polarity door lock systems. The keyless entry system using the DEI/ Avital # 2101L (and the similar DEI/ Viper 451m). This setup is for basic lock/unlocking.
The Avital manual is here online: https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N2101L_2009-01_web.pdf
![Wood Amber Electrical wiring Circuit component Cable]()
Here is the list of connections as seen in the picture
I bunched all the ground wires together (Black, Wh/blk and Br/blk)
I bunched all the +12V together (Red and Violet)
Gr/blk wire goes to Gray lock wire
Bl/blk wire goes to Gray unlock wire
This setup will leave the stock switches functional, and the Avital will also be able to lock and unlock your doors. The Avital’ s unused wires can be cut off or saved in a bundle for later use. I did not need to use the horn function or the light blinking function as the locks make so much noise, I can hear them far away.
First go into the door harness. Looking behind the door lock switch the gray wire next to the orange is the LOCK wire and the gray wire next to the pink is the UNLOCK wire. The splice where both join to a common ground is located about 4 inches from the button switch in the harness. You can see the bulge at the taped harness, there is also a thinner gray wire spliced into all this that goes to the power side mirrors. Cut only the two gray 14-gauge wires that go from the switch to the splice (before the splice), disconnecting it from the switch. You will connect additional wires to these.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper Trunk]()
Connect two wires or I used a cord and note which is lock and unlock wires, Fish the two wires thru the rubber door jamb boot. Thought the rubber boot would be fraglie, even after 35 years it is pliable. To make it easy to feed thru the boot I dislodged the boot end at the body to slowly feed if thru, with one hand inside the door and the other hand moving the boot around to feed the wire thru.
![Hand Automotive tire Hood Gesture Finger]()
Inside the car remove the lower dash and side kick panel. Can be done without removing the lower dash but better to see everything.
Then feed your two wires/cord into the body and behind the wires next to the foot brake.
![Tire Automotive tire Hood Wheel Tread]()
I placed the Avital behind the kick panel underside of the dash.
The ground wires can be connected to the existing ground screw behind the kick panel.
The +12v power I connected to the existing Red power-seat connector also located there.
Lastly connected the lock and unlock wires to the Avital accordingly.
Boom everything works, even with the remote more than 30ft. away. Took two and half hours, but I had prior experience taking the door trim off from before, replacing/rebuilding the window scrapers.
These instructions are for 1987 Dodge Daytonas and possibly other late 80’s Chryslers with reverse polarity door lock systems. The keyless entry system using the DEI/ Avital # 2101L (and the similar DEI/ Viper 451m). This setup is for basic lock/unlocking.
The Avital manual is here online: https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N2101L_2009-01_web.pdf
Here is the list of connections as seen in the picture
I bunched all the ground wires together (Black, Wh/blk and Br/blk)
I bunched all the +12V together (Red and Violet)
Gr/blk wire goes to Gray lock wire
Bl/blk wire goes to Gray unlock wire
This setup will leave the stock switches functional, and the Avital will also be able to lock and unlock your doors. The Avital’ s unused wires can be cut off or saved in a bundle for later use. I did not need to use the horn function or the light blinking function as the locks make so much noise, I can hear them far away.
First go into the door harness. Looking behind the door lock switch the gray wire next to the orange is the LOCK wire and the gray wire next to the pink is the UNLOCK wire. The splice where both join to a common ground is located about 4 inches from the button switch in the harness. You can see the bulge at the taped harness, there is also a thinner gray wire spliced into all this that goes to the power side mirrors. Cut only the two gray 14-gauge wires that go from the switch to the splice (before the splice), disconnecting it from the switch. You will connect additional wires to these.
Connect two wires or I used a cord and note which is lock and unlock wires, Fish the two wires thru the rubber door jamb boot. Thought the rubber boot would be fraglie, even after 35 years it is pliable. To make it easy to feed thru the boot I dislodged the boot end at the body to slowly feed if thru, with one hand inside the door and the other hand moving the boot around to feed the wire thru.
Inside the car remove the lower dash and side kick panel. Can be done without removing the lower dash but better to see everything.
Then feed your two wires/cord into the body and behind the wires next to the foot brake.
I placed the Avital behind the kick panel underside of the dash.
The ground wires can be connected to the existing ground screw behind the kick panel.
The +12v power I connected to the existing Red power-seat connector also located there.
Lastly connected the lock and unlock wires to the Avital accordingly.
Boom everything works, even with the remote more than 30ft. away. Took two and half hours, but I had prior experience taking the door trim off from before, replacing/rebuilding the window scrapers.
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
Very good! Nice write up and pictures. Now you see why I recommended taking the lower part of the dash off. Your dash is essentially what I installed in my 1986 K27 Lebaron, it came out of a 1989 J21 Lebaron coupe, which replaced the Chrysler Laser.
BTW, your interior looks like the same color as mine.
![Vehicle Motor vehicle Wheel Car Steering wheel]()
BTW, your interior looks like the same color as mine.
Joined
·
12,345 Posts
a handy trick
try to find the distance away from the car where the remote no longerworks
then take ten more stepsaway
hold remote against your head and push the button
it should increase the range of the remote
not kidding
the fliud around your brain and the "dome" of the skull casing will actually amplify the remotes signal strength
always handy to remember when you're half way across the parking lot and you remember you forgot to lock it
try to find the distance away from the car where the remote no longerworks
then take ten more stepsaway
hold remote against your head and push the button
it should increase the range of the remote
not kidding
the fliud around your brain and the "dome" of the skull casing will actually amplify the remotes signal strength
always handy to remember when you're half way across the parking lot and you remember you forgot to lock it
Joined
·
24 Posts
Love the red interior and the plush carpeting. My floor mats are a bit dirty since this car was originally from Montana and still has old red sand in it. Anyone under the age of 20 is very impressed and shocked with the red interior as they have never seen a car with a full red interior before.
You were right seeing everything under the dash made installation easier.
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
That is the original interior color for mine, loads of fun finding material to match.
Joined
·
24 Posts
It hasn't been a problem so far. We bought the Shelby with the speaker cover on the lower door missing, however, the frame was there. My older son goes to Virginia Tech whose colors are dark red-maroon. Same maroon as our interior. I used one of his old Va-Tech sweatshirts, turned it inside out and the fleece fabric looks just like our interior carpet. Cut, stretched and wrapped it across the speaker frame and it matches.
Another tip I found strolling thru Home Depot one day is Outdoor Fabric Spray Paint. Parts of the interior have faded. Home Depot has dark red/maroon fabric spray paint. I've tested a small area of the seat and it is a perfect color match. It soaks in well and blends into the fabric, unlike regular spray paint that would sit on the top, it blends into the fabric like dye. The last step of our restoration is to detail, fully vacuum-steam clean the interior and then repaint some areas of the interior that have faded, to make it look new again.
Here is the fabric spray paint:
Rust-Oleum 12 oz. Dark Red Outdoor Fabric Spray Paint 352115 - The Home Depot
Rust-Oleum 12 oz. Dark Red Fabric Spray Paint is an easy way to refresh your worn outdoor fabrics with color. Fabrics stay softer to the touch than regular spray paint. Its UV and weather resistant barrier
www.homedepot.com
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
I had actually found a match in another brand that also works well on fabric and a different one for the ABS plastic (dash was originally light blue). I will have to get the brand later for you.
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
Guess what reared it's head while I was looking for something else:
![Font Publication Rectangle Commemorative plaque Book]()
If you need any other wiring information, let me know.
If you need any other wiring information, let me know.
Joined
·
24 Posts
Thank you Bill,
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
