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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I put a Non-CB engine into my 89' Daytona. I used the head (89) off the car on the new motor. I swapped out the Round tooth cam gear for a Fidanza Adjustable Square Tooth Gear. Now I was wondering if the gears are the same other then the obvious teeth. Would putting the square tooth on have it retarded? I have some issues with low vac and being a dog off the line. I was hoping that this could be the issue.
 

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Yes, the 87+ heads used a roller system, eiter slider cam with roller followers, or roller cam/followers.

If you keep the square cam gear, get an 87-88 one, they are different by 12 degrees from the "earler" full slider heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, the 87+ heads used a roller system, eiter slider cam with roller followers, or roller cam/followers.

If you keep the square cam gear, get an 87-88 one, they are different by 12 degrees from the "earler" full slider heads.
couldn't I just adjust it to 12* on the Adjusted cam gear? Or could I skip it ahead a tooth and achieve the same thing and still be able to use the cam gear to 'tune' with. :confused:
 

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I am not sure about that, I would see what someone else says who may have run into this issue before. Or just upgrade to round tooth gears.
 

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the general consensus is:
a round tooth cam with square tooth gear results in a 4 degree retard of the cam,
so if you want to get back to centerline, advance 4 deg on yur Fidanza

an 'old school' way of cam timing 'tuning' is advance / retard to get best cylinder pressure

you could also try couple settings and check your idle vacuum ...

generally speaking,
- retarding the cam moves the powerband up in the rpm range, increasing peak HP but losing low-end torque, and degrading idle/driveability
- advancing the cam moves the powerband down in the rpm range, decreasing peak Hp but improving low end torque, and improving idle/driveability
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the general consensus is:
a round tooth cam with square tooth gear results in a 4 degree retard of the cam,
so if you want to get back to centerline, advance 4 deg on yur Fidanza

an 'old school' way of cam timing 'tuning' is advance / retard to get best cylinder pressure

you could also try couple settings and check your idle vacuum ...

generally speaking,
- retarding the cam moves the powerband up in the rpm range, increasing peak HP but losing low-end torque, and degrading idle/driveability
- advancing the cam moves the powerband down in the rpm range, decreasing peak Hp but improving low end torque, and improving idle/driveability

Thanks, I thought I had read it to be about 4* retarded.This was the answer I was looking for. At least I know what 4* retard feels like lol, seeing as it sucked on low end but dear god, once it spooled it was the fastest car I had ever been in all the way to redline.
 

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Well I guess it was 4 degrees instead of 12, thank you Detobias for clearing that up, my mistake.

Hope it all works back out for you rick :thumb:
 

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At least I know what 4* retard feels like lol, seeing as it sucked on low end but dear god, once it spooled it was the fastest car I had ever been in all the way to redline.
YES that is the way my 2.2 TII is,
which: for a light car like an omni is a GOOD powerband

more power down low will just smoke the tires,
but that high-RPM 'hit' is fantastic !!

besides, with an auto trans, I can brake-boost to get the launch spool-up

more generalizations:
retard = better for light car, non-commuter, no A/C, auto trans
advance = better for heavy car, stop&go driving, A/C, manual trans
 
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