OK, I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I realize my Shelby Z is 23 yrs old, but how in the hell do you stop the squeeking and creaking of all the interior plasitc?!?!?!? I am thinking I will remove all of it and line the back side with 1/4" foam, especially where plastic meets other plastic parts.
Anyone have any thoughts on this or an idea that worked for them?
I used the foam weatherstrip tape. Cheap, effective.
One tip: Use mineral spirits or alcohol to clean the plastic real good before you apply the tape. It will make the tape stick much better, especially when it is heated up.
Also make sure that your screws are the right size and tight.
I had similar squeaky problems, especially in the cold. It infuriated me so I removed every single piece of plastic from the rear interior of my car. Still squeaked. Discovered it was my rubber window seals. Applied gummi pflege (Amazon.com: einszett 914806 Gummi Pflege Rubber Care - 3.4 fl. oz.: Automotive). Worked wonders, got rid of some wind noise as well. Silicone grease from a spray can works for a while as well.
building a rear shock tower brace in the two Gbodies I've been able to do have really helped quiet all the interior rattles. It also improves the ride and handling. Rear seat passengers don't get their heads thrown into the ceiling when you hit a bump because the body doesn't flex and throw them up there. The springs and shocks actually work. I built one for a hardtop sunroof car, and one for my old T-top. There are also 13 other examples floating around the TD community somewhere from when I made a batch and sold them.
Let me know if you correct the interior noise.
I was chasing creaks,moans/groans, rattles with the interior trim for 4 years when the car was new.
Everytime I fixed one another popper up.
I finally gave up and accepted it as normal.
Every year after winter and cold weather is gone I find myself chasing new noises.
Hard to hear noises with the radio and blower going.
It went to 70 today and I have 2 new noises to track down.
one in the hatch area over bumps and a rattle from under the passenger dash that you can only hear at idle with the radio off, may be something rattling under the hood.
Noises are always bad in TD's especially Daytona with the large doors and large 1/4 trim panels.
This is before I sold the car. Not pictured are the cross braces that attach to two more points on the body, you can still see the bolts around the middle of the rear seats where they were bolted too.
I can jack up the car (t-top) on one corner and still open all the doors and hatch just like the car is sitting on the ground.
Also before tearing apart the interior...
Be sure all of your weatherstrip is cleaned and lubed with a good rubber lubricant.
This was a major issue on the Jeep Cherokee(XJ)
When the weatherstrip dried out it sounded like the doors were going to fall off.
Liberal spraying of the weatherstrip with Silicone Spray quieted it right down.
I prefer to use something like armor all protectant because it lasts longer but be sure to clean first and then lune the entire thing.
I also had squeeks coming from my doors due to the hinge pins being worn so the door was not seated correctly when closed.
x2 on hinge pins. Had same problem. In my case, previous owner installed the bushings wrong and caused ALOT of problems with my hinges. The bushings go BETWEEN the two hinges, not just popped into the top one. *facepalm*
attaches to where the seat backs latch to which is right above the spring perches. The two 3/16"x1.5" wide braces that aren't pictured are attached to seat bolts in the center. I had to bend them in a vise with a hammer to the shape of the floor and then so they would meet up with the cross piece. With them in place I can take all the bolts out of the cross bar and NOT pull the bar out
Dynomat also helps. Did wonders for my rear panels creaking in the t-top car. but I do agree, front and rear shock tower braces would help immensely with body flex
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