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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We have had a lot of people on here starting new and the time has come to start a build up thread. I want to keep this thread clean so that it isn't 50 pages deep and people get lost trying to read it. So short and sweet, hopefully :fingersx:

To start This is going to be based on the T2 cars. That also means any 88 up T1 car as well, 2.2 or 2.5 cars. We'll start with what you need, then go up from there as "options".


T2 / T1 top end, with Garret turbo as starting point.

Garret T1 converted, or T2 Garret turbo, no mitsu
T2 or later T1 exhaust manifold.
PT lifter mod
1 piece or 2 piece either is fine at this level
MP +20 injectors or FFV injectors
3 bar map, Chevy or MSD
3 bar computer FWDperformance.com stage 5 or equivalent. That includes other vendors, I have had the most positive experience with FWD at this level.
SS turbo lines, no leaks and no oil starving pushing the turbo.
MP head gasket and MP bolts.
Vac block or old metal EGR vac barb, plus new vac lines able to handle 20 PSI without failure.
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with straight through muffler and high flow cat or no cat.
K&N air filter drop in, factory cold air hooked up
silicone BOV T and BOV between air box and TB
wideband 02 sensor, not a narrow band. LC-1 type with 2 outputs, one to the computer and the other to a gauge.
real boost gauge
new fuel filter, fuel pump (stock) and fuel lines
T2 intercooler, air lines and air box


Trans build.
must be large axle trans, auto or stick
T2/T3 clutch for 5 speed
booger bushings for later trans
autos need the shift kit info and chad Kilbacks mod
autos need an external inline oil filter and trans cooler.
Sonax strut bar and V6 governor spring kit


car build
poly front and rear engine mounts
Poly A arm bushings and sway bar bushings
new struts and shocks, KYB gr2 at least
1 negitive camber up front at least, no positive camber computer alignments!

These mods assume that the vac lines are done right, solenoids are working, spark plugs and so on are good and the sensors are good with no codes. Lastly this assumes your running premium fuel, not garbage fuel.

People are often just staying 2 bar, because they "aren't building a race car" as they are building a faster reliable street car. Today factory cars come with 20 PSI and higher, an EVO runs 23 PSI. "Most" people will be more than happy with the power level at 20 PSI, 270-300 HP on a near stock engine is fast. A stock T2 top end responds lighting quick and makes tons of usable HP and torque with a smaller turbo. The 2.2s and 2.5s, even with LW rods can handle the power that can be had with +20 injectors. So this mods brings the masses that want a street 2 bar car up to a street 3 bar car. Then when your used to a 3 bar setup and your good at tuning this level, then stepping to a 3 bar set up with big injectors will be a small step. Many go from a street 2 bar to a race 3 bar and that big of a step is tough. We TD people are blessed with a strong engine and trans combo, this thread is aimed at bringing you up to where these cars could have come stock from the factory.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Getting to 20 PSI mod thread

options, were talking about adding a little more to this.

Mild ported head. Cleaned up bowls with +1 valves, Comp springs and PT lifters. FWD stage 1 equivalent.

Ported intakes, stock plenums and milds smoothing, 52mm TB OK for 2 piece intakes.

Ported exhaust manifold and larger swing valves than the 2 1/4" unit.

Need to keep the .48 housing at this level but adding the S60 compressor wheel would help temps

Bigger intercooler, but this requires the S60 compressor for better computer controlled boost. The reason is the turbo shaft speeds are really high at first filling the IC. So the S60 compressor keeps the shaft speeds lower for less boost spike.

TBI or F2 cams are ok, no big cams at this level.

larger fuel pump would be nice

Adjustible fuel pressure regulator is better if you add porting and other mild flow mods for more fuel.

OTC scanner for racing and pushing the limits and being able to watch for knock timing retard.

Trans extras

Posi for drag racing is a big one, same with autocross. Then a Spec stage 3 clutch for racing.


The key to these options is to make the car more responsive without raising the VE to the next level. Going to the next level brings you into the land of breaking parts and spending a lot more money. The mild 20 PSI build is a computer controlled boost daily driver level. This means boost and timing retard for safe street driving. Good mileage, which with the wideband can get around 30+ MPG with this level as well. :thumb:

Basically a first step to power, near 300 HP / 250 WHP. With options, race gas and a MBC this can be pushed to 300 WHP. Then pump gas and back to street driving with computer control.

3 bar computers need WOT boost learning, not part throttle boost learning. Every 3 bar computer I have used with computer control hit over boost spiking at WOT by letting the computer learn boost at part throttle.

Converting to T2 levels, air temp sensor wiring and so on are for other threads, this is a good mod list thread for the first step in power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Getting to 20 PSI mod thread

This is stage 1 build up for the SRT 4. This is for triple purpose auto cross, drag race and daily driver. Both cars that will be used as example have run 12.7 @ 110. Both cars have won FTD at autocross (fastest time of day). They are very similar in build with small differences.

Large FMIC, the large Spearco. There are a lot of cheap versions and you want the 12 x 3 x 24 core. The Spearco is 3.5" wide. This is HUGE for keeping boost to redline, the biggest power mod in this thread.

stock or stage 1 computers, factory boost control, NOT a MBC with a stock turbo! Ryan's car runs 17 PSI to redline with factory boost control.

3" 02 back exhaust, not cat, straight through muffler. It is my experience the cat doesn't hurt much if it is a high flow. I love the MPx system.

MP / K&N Typhoon CIA, the long one to the fender. This is a 2.5", a 3" version is better but not needed.

Poly engine mount inserts. A must for engine movement.

Suspension mods. Full energy suspension kit for the chassis, A arms, sway bars etc. The factory bushings fail at 20,000 miles at this level. Hawk brake pads on stock rotors. Koni Sport inserts with Eibach Pro kit springs. This sets camber to 1 negative where it needs to be with auto cross and drag racing. Set toe to 0 in front.

Tires, this is huge to get the ET you want, no exceptions. The SRT 4 is geared too high for the 16" and up wheels and the ETs get slammed. 22" x 8" slicks, 225 50 15 BF drag radials, 225 50 15 Hoosier's, all on 15 x 7 wheels. Clays car drops from [email protected] to [email protected] going from 225 40 18s to the 225 50 15 DR's and no other changes....

Trans mods. The Billet gear selector is a good idea, the SRT doesn't have the gear box the Getrags got. Booger bushings are a must on the shift cables. The MP short shifter does 2 things, faster shifts and reduces force on the cables from a higher ratio. Spec stage 3 clutch or MP clutch are a must at this level, the stock clutch won't live long.

92 octane fuel is a must, better plugs NGK Iridium LZTR6AIX-13, I like the MSD coil pack with the heat shield. They melt plug wires and coil packs stock. 03 SRT 4s need the stage 1 kit as it comes with the bigger injectors you need BTW and the factory 04 up posi is required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Getting to 20 PSI mod thread

SRT 4 stage 1 examples.

Ryan Walsh's silver SRT 4
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Dodge neon srt-4 Sedan


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part


car runs 22 x 8 x 15 slicks, [email protected] on pump. Uses stock computer, stock WG can, 3" exhaust.

Clay Flowers black SRT 4
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Dodge neon srt-4 Sedan


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Dodge neon srt-4 Sedan


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Hood


car runs STOCK EXHAUST, not a typo. AGP WG can, stage 1 computer. Runs [email protected] on 225 50 15 BF DR's.

Clay's URL with time slip and dyno chart
Clay Flower

time slip


Tire dyno, best WHP, 277, best WT, 362
 
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