We have had a lot of people on here starting new and the time has come to start a build up thread. I want to keep this thread clean so that it isn't 50 pages deep and people get lost trying to read it. So short and sweet, hopefully :fingersx:
To start This is going to be based on the T2 cars. That also means any 88 up T1 car as well, 2.2 or 2.5 cars. We'll start with what you need, then go up from there as "options".
T2 / T1 top end, with Garret turbo as starting point.
Garret T1 converted, or T2 Garret turbo, no mitsu
T2 or later T1 exhaust manifold.
PT lifter mod
1 piece or 2 piece either is fine at this level
MP +20 injectors or FFV injectors
3 bar map, Chevy or MSD
3 bar computer FWDperformance.com stage 5 or equivalent. That includes other vendors, I have had the most positive experience with FWD at this level.
SS turbo lines, no leaks and no oil starving pushing the turbo.
MP head gasket and MP bolts.
Vac block or old metal EGR vac barb, plus new vac lines able to handle 20 PSI without failure.
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with straight through muffler and high flow cat or no cat.
K&N air filter drop in, factory cold air hooked up
silicone BOV T and BOV between air box and TB
wideband 02 sensor, not a narrow band. LC-1 type with 2 outputs, one to the computer and the other to a gauge.
real boost gauge
new fuel filter, fuel pump (stock) and fuel lines
T2 intercooler, air lines and air box
Trans build.
must be large axle trans, auto or stick
T2/T3 clutch for 5 speed
booger bushings for later trans
autos need the shift kit info and chad Kilbacks mod
autos need an external inline oil filter and trans cooler.
Sonax strut bar and V6 governor spring kit
car build
poly front and rear engine mounts
Poly A arm bushings and sway bar bushings
new struts and shocks, KYB gr2 at least
1 negitive camber up front at least, no positive camber computer alignments!
These mods assume that the vac lines are done right, solenoids are working, spark plugs and so on are good and the sensors are good with no codes. Lastly this assumes your running premium fuel, not garbage fuel.
People are often just staying 2 bar, because they "aren't building a race car" as they are building a faster reliable street car. Today factory cars come with 20 PSI and higher, an EVO runs 23 PSI. "Most" people will be more than happy with the power level at 20 PSI, 270-300 HP on a near stock engine is fast. A stock T2 top end responds lighting quick and makes tons of usable HP and torque with a smaller turbo. The 2.2s and 2.5s, even with LW rods can handle the power that can be had with +20 injectors. So this mods brings the masses that want a street 2 bar car up to a street 3 bar car. Then when your used to a 3 bar setup and your good at tuning this level, then stepping to a 3 bar set up with big injectors will be a small step. Many go from a street 2 bar to a race 3 bar and that big of a step is tough. We TD people are blessed with a strong engine and trans combo, this thread is aimed at bringing you up to where these cars could have come stock from the factory.
To start This is going to be based on the T2 cars. That also means any 88 up T1 car as well, 2.2 or 2.5 cars. We'll start with what you need, then go up from there as "options".
T2 / T1 top end, with Garret turbo as starting point.
Garret T1 converted, or T2 Garret turbo, no mitsu
T2 or later T1 exhaust manifold.
PT lifter mod
1 piece or 2 piece either is fine at this level
MP +20 injectors or FFV injectors
3 bar map, Chevy or MSD
3 bar computer FWDperformance.com stage 5 or equivalent. That includes other vendors, I have had the most positive experience with FWD at this level.
SS turbo lines, no leaks and no oil starving pushing the turbo.
MP head gasket and MP bolts.
Vac block or old metal EGR vac barb, plus new vac lines able to handle 20 PSI without failure.
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with straight through muffler and high flow cat or no cat.
K&N air filter drop in, factory cold air hooked up
silicone BOV T and BOV between air box and TB
wideband 02 sensor, not a narrow band. LC-1 type with 2 outputs, one to the computer and the other to a gauge.
real boost gauge
new fuel filter, fuel pump (stock) and fuel lines
T2 intercooler, air lines and air box
Trans build.
must be large axle trans, auto or stick
T2/T3 clutch for 5 speed
booger bushings for later trans
autos need the shift kit info and chad Kilbacks mod
autos need an external inline oil filter and trans cooler.
Sonax strut bar and V6 governor spring kit
car build
poly front and rear engine mounts
Poly A arm bushings and sway bar bushings
new struts and shocks, KYB gr2 at least
1 negitive camber up front at least, no positive camber computer alignments!
These mods assume that the vac lines are done right, solenoids are working, spark plugs and so on are good and the sensors are good with no codes. Lastly this assumes your running premium fuel, not garbage fuel.
People are often just staying 2 bar, because they "aren't building a race car" as they are building a faster reliable street car. Today factory cars come with 20 PSI and higher, an EVO runs 23 PSI. "Most" people will be more than happy with the power level at 20 PSI, 270-300 HP on a near stock engine is fast. A stock T2 top end responds lighting quick and makes tons of usable HP and torque with a smaller turbo. The 2.2s and 2.5s, even with LW rods can handle the power that can be had with +20 injectors. So this mods brings the masses that want a street 2 bar car up to a street 3 bar car. Then when your used to a 3 bar setup and your good at tuning this level, then stepping to a 3 bar set up with big injectors will be a small step. Many go from a street 2 bar to a race 3 bar and that big of a step is tough. We TD people are blessed with a strong engine and trans combo, this thread is aimed at bringing you up to where these cars could have come stock from the factory.