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Something else to consider:

You said you are running an LC-1 wideband. Did you replace the stock narrow band with it? Did you install the wideband in the same spot as original? If so, that could be part of your issue. The widebands are supposed to be more downstream than the narrowbands.. The direct exhaust heat will damage the widebands over time in the stock location. Are you using the 0-1V narrowband output from the LC-1?

Maybe something else to look into.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Do you have access to a scan tool? If you have good fuel pressure under load and good fuel, that should rule out the fuel system. Hard to believe all 4 new injectors would have a problem. I would look for computer related issues. Do the inputs make sense? O2, MAP, etc.
Sadly, no access to a scan tool.

The injectors are not new...i bought them used from a guy on this website.
I'm starting to suspect them. When I put in the adjustable FPR before, the hex nut above the o-ring on it galled the fuel port on the fuel rail and would cut any new o-rings put. So I used a deburring tool to take the burrs out out the port port on the rail.... and i think i blew out all the shavings but I'm paranoid some little bits maybe ended up in the injectors.

Maybe it's worth sending them out for a cleaning? Is there a way i can test them?

Do the inputs make sense? O2, MAP, etc.
Hmm, don't really know what that means.

Thanks Andy!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Something else to consider:

You said you are running an LC-1 wideband. Did you replace the stock narrow band with it? Did you install the wideband in the same spot as original? If so, that could be part of your issue. The widebands are supposed to be more downstream than the narrowbands.. The direct exhaust heat will damage the widebands over time in the stock location. Are you using the 0-1V narrowband output from the LC-1?

Maybe something else to look into.
Here's how I am running it:

I put a bung in about 16" downstream of the turbo. Just as the instructions recommend. Then put the LC-1 O2 sensor in. The sensor is about 4 months old probably.

I am using the output wire on the LC-1 to feed the computer.

The stock O2 sensor is still in the stock port..
Funny thing. Yesterday, for shits and giggles, I plugged the stock sensor back into the harness and unhooked the LC-1 from the computer. Still had the lc-1 gauge hooked up though. And it ran like crap!!! Showing super lean on the gauge, like 21 a/f. Weird. So i hooked the LC-1 sensor back into the computer and it ran okay again.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Guys, is there a way to "squirt" the injectors with the fuel rail off and see if they are spraying good?
Might be a stupid question.....
Just don't wanna spend $100 on getting my injectors restored if they are already fine.
Thanks
 

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Guys, is there a way to "squirt" the injectors with the fuel rail off and see if they are spraying good?
Might be a stupid question.....
Just don't wanna spend $100 on getting my injectors restored if they are already fine.
Thanks
Yes, with one of these, this is used to run an injector balance test along with a fuel pressure gauge, I have owned one since 1989.

Great deal on OTC Tools 3398 at ToolTopia.com
 

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You could try a new set of spark plugs. I've had this condition before where the wideband would go lean under boost. One cylinder would drop out and dump unburnt oxygen causing the lean readings. Fresh plugs cured it. Worth a try, cheap and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
As posted above regarding your wideband, Once you verify you are actually lean here are Chryslers Diagnostics for Driveabilty with no fault codes or Codes 51/52.

I would start with Map Calibration.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html
Ok I am doing the MAP calibration right now. So far I have checked the vacuum before and after the BARO, at 19" for each, looks good.
5v reference is good with key on/engine off. Right at 5v.

As for the voltage from the signal, my MAP is a three bar, so I should reference that graph you put up? It's kind of hard to read, I don't suppose anyone has numerical voltages/vacuum for 3 bar MAP do they? Thanks!
 

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Here ya go maybe this chart will be easier to read...

 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ok, so if I'm reading this cart correctly....
At idle, with my vaccuum at about 19", the voltage should be reading lower than 0.12v, right? And at zero (WOT), I should be reading roughly 1.8v?
BTW, can you do this with the key on/engine off, using a mityvac?
Thanks!
 

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1)Key On/Engine Off (0" HG) = 1.80 - 1.90 Volts @ Sea Level
(This is a Barometric Pressure Reading and will vary slightly according to actual barometric pressure and altitude)
2)19" HG = .10???
(I do not think this is correct, I have verified the 2 Bar chart with my car, a digital voltmeter and a scanner and that shows 18.11" HG = .93 volts and the 3 Bar chart shows both the 2 and 3 bar intersecting at .10 volts for 15" HG)
3)5 lbs Boost = 2.40 Volts
4)10 lbs Boost = 3.00 Volts
5)15 lbs Boost = 3.50 Volts

You can use a MityVac if you are using the pump that can apply vacuum and pressure.
You would need to apply pressure to see your Map readings under boost.

Save on MityVac MV8500 at ToolTopia.com

Using a MityVac will only tell you if the Map Sensor itself is accurate, it will not tell you what vacuum/pressure is actually reaching the Map under boost and your problem condition.
You should use jumper wires off of your backprobe pins to connect to your meter leads so your meter will reach into the car so you can go for a ride (with a helper) and see actual Map Voltage under real life conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ok guys check out this video I took. It goes to slow mo part of the way through. I suggest you mute it.
0.48v at idle vacuum
1.4v at 0 vacuum.
 

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This is so weird, it was running top-notch just a few days ago. Like, flying down the highway good!
Which usually indicates the issue is something you installed on the car, Controller, Map, Injectors, Fuel Pump, etc.

1)Do you still have the old parts?
If yes put them back in and see if the problem is gone, then you will know if it is related to the performance parts.

2)For a stock setup 60 PSI of static fuel pressure is high, pressure should be 53-57 PSI and rail pressure will drop 1 PSI for every 2" HG applied to the FPR.
Rail Pressure will rise 1 PSI above static for every 1 lb of boost.
Most have to "Lower" rail pressure with +40's because they are too rich, you are opposite.

3)You have not verified fuel pressure under boost when you are lean.

4)You may not have a choice and will have to get a hold of a scanner so you can see actual Map Voltage, Injector Pulse Width and Spark Advance under boost when you are lean in real time.
 
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