Steering rack killing my PS pump?

484 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by RoadkillSD, Oct 17, 2011

RoadkillSD

Discussion Starter · Oct 11, 2011

The PS pump on my '93 LeBaron was moaning and groaning at low speeds and made it hard to turn so I knew it was dying. I wish I still had access to a frame lift to do this stuff myself but I don't so I was forced to take it in. I had to pay the local shop $300 to replace the pump but at least it came with a lifetime warranty. Good thing because I had to bring it back to get the pump replaced 3 more times. The tech told me it seems that the pressure is off in the rack so it's killing the pump. They want $500 to replace the rack and another $58 to align it afterwards.

That's pretty ridiculous when the rack is under $100. This $1,000 project car is starting to not look so much like a steal. I really want to have it in perfect working order without breaking the bank. Is there a valve body or something cheaper that can be replaced in the rack rather than replacing the whole thing to fix the uneven pressure?

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NAJ

· #2 · Oct 11, 2011

Did they test the system with a power system pressure tester?
Any restriction in the system or leak causing the pump to run low or cause air in the system will cause pre-mature pump failure.
If there are no leaks, the fluid is not discolored or shows signs of air in the system....
My suggestion would be replace the pressure line and return line, bleed the system correctly and go from there.

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DSG Mach 1

· #3 · Oct 11, 2011

The rack started to go in my 84 but I also was having some problems with the PS pump leaking. I had my pump replaced and the system cleaned and flushed but it only helps for so long. The rack is getting replaced today - it is just too stiff in the morning and won't loosen up till about 5 minutes after driving in cool weather. The quote for your parts and installation is about right.

I really want to have it in perfect working order without breaking the bank.

Me too...but my initial budget was around $7,500.00. I am getting pretty close to $14,000.00 now...but it shows!

The rack is replaced as a unit. The R/R time is about 4 hours. It's cheaper to buy a unit than rebuild it. You could probably replace it yourself. You'll still need the alignment - although if you do replace it yourself, you might be able to align it "somewhat" but I wouldn't recommend it.

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turismolover22

· #4 · Oct 11, 2011

Rack replacement is easy, even on the ground. I did it on a grease caked caravan, 300 miles from home. Lesiurely time to replace it? eh 6 hours or so. Also requires column removal. It can easily be replaced without removing the k-frame, just unbolt the downpipe and pull some of the exhaust off.

If it doesn't disconnect, i would cut it then rejoin it after the job is done, just slip a small pipe larger than yours over the two sections and clamp together. It makes it a lot easier.

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RoadkillSD

Discussion Starter · #5 · Oct 12, 2011

NAJ said:
Did they test the system with a power system pressure tester?
Any restriction in the system or leak causing the pump to run low or cause air in the system will cause pre-mature pump failure.
If there are no leaks, the fluid is not discolored or shows signs of air in the system....
My suggestion would be replace the pressure line and return line, bleed the system correctly and go from there.

When the pump was first replaced, the fluid was dark as hell. After subsequent replacements, it was still new fluid so really hadn't changed at all. I would assume that being a reputable, ASE certified business in the Midwest, they tested everything. It was in the shop all day before they came to that conclusion. I'm gonna look around for the lines and see what that'll cost me and try that first. Is there something to stop the pump from bleeding out when the lines are removed?

turismolover22 said:
Rack replacement is easy, even on the ground. I did it on a grease caked caravan, 300 miles from home. Lesiurely time to replace it? eh 6 hours or so. Also requires column removal. It can easily be replaced without removing the k-frame, just unbolt the downpipe and pull some of the exhaust off.

Just put the front end up on jack stands and I should be able to get the rack/lines off? Is there anything else (tie rods, etc) that will have to come off other than the steering column?

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NAJ

· #6 · Oct 13, 2011

Actually the intermidiate shaft needs to come off of the rack, on most cars it has a bolt and you can loosen it and slide the shaft back and the lines have to be removed.
Remove the lines and allow them to drain into a pan the pump will run dry.
If you are using a long rack(comes with inner tie rod ends) you need to swap over your outer tie rod ends.
Just count the # of turns to remove each and re-install them the same # of turns and you will be close but will still need an alignment.
To bleed the system when done fill the P/S pump and with the front wheels off the ground and engine off turn the steering wheel left to right to its stops about 20 times, recheck fluid and add if needed and continue doing this until the fluid level stops dropping in the pump.
Lower the car to the ground and start the car and again turn the wheel back and forth to its stops being sure the fluid stays full, continue doing this until there is no more air bubbles seen in the pump reservoir.
It may take up to 200 miles of driving for all air to be purged from the system.

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NAJ

· #7 · Oct 13, 2011

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RoadkillSD

Discussion Starter · #8 · Oct 13, 2011

Awesome! Thanks, NAJ. I'll go swap the lines and then the rack if no change. Thanks, all. Love this forum.

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RoadkillSD

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 17, 2011

Do you know if the fast-ratio rack at this thread would work for my J-body LeBaron? It's only been a month since Moparmonster posted the last update about the parts so I'm hoping it is still available if it does. This would solve my problem AND get me one more upgrade I didn't even have on my list

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