Yup. That is where I got my axles and I don't regret it at all. Eliminated the equal length half shaft also.powermaxx said:
Yup. That is where I got my axles and I don't regret it at all. Eliminated the equal length half shaft also.powermaxx said:I shoulda ordered those axles from the driveshaft shop.... ($$$)
I don't do burnouts, just get'em spinning a little to clean them off (rocks, etc...) at least there's no smoke from them at the track. I let the tires pull me with no line lock or e-brake usage. That's why I usually do this off to the side of the burnout box. Hardly any rubber build up there, just concrete. I think the problem was as I said before when I had to go in the area just in front of the box where there was a lot of rubber built up (knew it in my heart...).contraption22 said:Try not doing a burnout at all.
It's shimmed already, axle nuts are tight (stub struts?) and the engine does have preload (have to jack the engine up a little to get the rear mount/strut in place).glhsken said:Steve, Shim the drivers side sway bar 5/8". That will help with the traction . Crank the stub struts extra tight and preload the engine. as was suggested in the other thread.
Yeah, it's rough, but without some type of control arm front suspension work.(as in fabrication) I never had much hope with mine either. I never got to try my tricks befor I sold the car...Ondonti said:all this axel breaking is fairly depressing............and yall dont seem to give it much hope
In addition to shimming the sway bar, you could also pop an air shock on the left rear and air it up to transfer more weight to the passenger side front tire. You can experiment with air pressures, or borrow a set of wheel scales to figure out how to get the weight evenly distributed across the front. Just make sure you're in the car and wearing your gear if you're using scales to get a correct reading.glhsken said:Steve, Shim the drivers side sway bar 5/8". That will help with the traction . Crank the stub struts extra tight and preload the engine. as was suggested in the other thread.
L body air shock? I've already put spacers in the left rear spring to bias weight to the right front. Air pressures also biased.Scottmon said:In addition to shimming the sway bar, you could also pop an air shock on the left rear and air it up to transfer more weight to the passenger side front tire. You can experiment with air pressures, or borrow a set of wheel scales to figure out how to get the weight evenly distributed across the front. Just make sure you're in the car and wearing your gear if you're using scales to get a correct reading.
I've got all the poly stuff from Johnny (the hard race versions, talk about engine vibrations in the interior!!!) including all the A-arm, sway bars (I mean everything!) This engine/trans is "ROCK SOLID". (I will also crank down on the stub axle in the A-arm, actually I'm going to put a wrench on everything imaginable).glhsken said:It's not really that bad. Crank down that stub strut HARD, shim the swaybar, stiffen the mounts, then you should be reasonably safe. When someone has an issue, its typically chronic until the real culprit is found.
Yeah, been thinking along those lines myself (it is a bracket race and autos=consistancy) Maybe next year....ohiorob said:Steve you should think hard about going auto. i have been running stock l-body axles for years and never broke one yet and i have been running 10s the last year and a half![]()
Rob