Sticky track= broken axle (again )

powermaxx said:

I shoulda ordered those axles from the driveshaft shop.... ($$$)

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Yup. That is where I got my axles and I don't regret it at all. Eliminated the equal length half shaft also.

Try not doing a burnout at all.

I had better traction with my DR's with hardly any burnout then with a huge one...

contraption22 said:

Try not doing a burnout at all.

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I don't do burnouts, just get'em spinning a little to clean them off (rocks, etc...) at least there's no smoke from them at the track. I let the tires pull me with no line lock or e-brake usage. That's why I usually do this off to the side of the burnout box. Hardly any rubber build up there, just concrete. I think the problem was as I said before when I had to go in the area just in front of the box where there was a lot of rubber built up (knew it in my heart...).

If anyone knows about broken axles it's me. My buddy Ryan had the Driveshaft Shops Chromoly joints and the held up well. I would say spend the money, but always remember the weakest lik will break, and NOTHING is bulletproof. Hop will kill axles as well as engine/trans/drivetrain alignment, and also suspension alignment and stiffness... I've broken probably a dozen axles in one season, buy the way. 2 in one night

I'm pretty sure it's something like alignment/centering is the issue and not a "bad" RP axle now. I did order the Driveshaft Shop axle set, it would be nice if they show up in time for this Friday night race. Doubt they will so I'll probably throw in a stock TBI Autozone axle in for this weekend and take a chance (maybe set on 15psi, after all it is a bracket race). I also think an LSD will help "spread the load" (waiting for the OBX group buy to happen...). Wish that "True Trac" had worked out (never did from day one and only 1500 miles on it...)

Steve, Shim the drivers side sway bar 5/8". That will help with the traction . Crank the stub struts extra tight and preload the engine. as was suggested in the other thread.

glhsken said:

Steve, Shim the drivers side sway bar 5/8". That will help with the traction . Crank the stub struts extra tight and preload the engine. as was suggested in the other thread.

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It's shimmed already, axle nuts are tight (stub struts?) and the engine does have preload (have to jack the engine up a little to get the rear mount/strut in place).

all this axel breaking is fairly depressing............and yall dont seem to give it much hope

Stub struts are part of the lower control arms. They are the rearward bars that bolt straight through the k-frame with the large (21mm?) nut on the end.

Ondonti said:

all this axel breaking is fairly depressing............and yall dont seem to give it much hope

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Yeah, it's rough, but without some type of control arm front suspension work.(as in fabrication) I never had much hope with mine either. I never got to try my tricks befor I sold the car...

It's not really that bad. Crank down that stub strut HARD, shim the swaybar, stiffen the mounts, then you should be reasonably safe. When someone has an issue, its typically chronic until the real culprit is found.

glhsken said:

Steve, Shim the drivers side sway bar 5/8". That will help with the traction . Crank the stub struts extra tight and preload the engine. as was suggested in the other thread.

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In addition to shimming the sway bar, you could also pop an air shock on the left rear and air it up to transfer more weight to the passenger side front tire. You can experiment with air pressures, or borrow a set of wheel scales to figure out how to get the weight evenly distributed across the front. Just make sure you're in the car and wearing your gear if you're using scales to get a correct reading.

Scottmon said:

In addition to shimming the sway bar, you could also pop an air shock on the left rear and air it up to transfer more weight to the passenger side front tire. You can experiment with air pressures, or borrow a set of wheel scales to figure out how to get the weight evenly distributed across the front. Just make sure you're in the car and wearing your gear if you're using scales to get a correct reading.

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L body air shock? I've already put spacers in the left rear spring to bias weight to the right front. Air pressures also biased.

L-body? Hmmm...might be tough to find an air shock for. Guess I need to read a little more closely.

glhsken said:

It's not really that bad. Crank down that stub strut HARD, shim the swaybar, stiffen the mounts, then you should be reasonably safe. When someone has an issue, its typically chronic until the real culprit is found.

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I've got all the poly stuff from Johnny (the hard race versions, talk about engine vibrations in the interior!!!) including all the A-arm, sway bars (I mean everything!) This engine/trans is "ROCK SOLID". (I will also crank down on the stub axle in the A-arm, actually I'm going to put a wrench on everything imaginable).

I've done all of the "tricks" everyone has mentioned. And like I said I'm ready to build my traction bars which have a full frame to frame cross brace that the front engine mount attaches to. I just hate to weld it in my "Numbered Car".

All MOPAR day here in Denver this weekend so I threw an OEM axle in so I can make the show (I'm even missing a race series tonight so in case I broke another one I can still make the MOPAR day)

I do appreaciate all of the tips (you never know with us old folks as we forget things occasionally ) .

Steve you should think hard about going auto. i have been running stock l-body axles for years and never broke one yet and i have been running 10s the last year and a half

Rob

ohiorob said:

Steve you should think hard about going auto. i have been running stock l-body axles for years and never broke one yet and i have been running 10s the last year and a half

Rob

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Yeah, been thinking along those lines myself (it is a bracket race and autos=consistancy) Maybe next year....

I got an email from Gary D. and agree with his theory that it sounds like a centering issue. Going to do it this time with the weight of the car on the wheels tonight.