Sundance 6g72's Turbo Duster

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Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · Nov 10, 2010 (Edited by Moderator)

3

UPDATED - Edited first post, car has boost

1993 Plymouth Sundance "duster"

6g72T a543

MODS

Engine - 12valve g72 stock long block.

Ported Upper intake
Half inch intake spacers
ported 52mm throttle body
3inch catback exhaust with magnaflow muffler
cat delete
60/63trim t3/t4
2.5inch downpipe
3inch intercooler piping
big fmic
msd blaster coil
full AC delete
diamante cams
46mm Open Dump Wastegate

Fueling/ Tuning - no more SBECII

Megasquirt II Stand Alone
#36 Injectors
Stock Fuel Pump
Walbro 255 (needs install)
Prosport Wideband
Prosport Boost Gauge
2.5 bar Map sensor

Trans - a543 5spd

3.77 gearing
Turbo's Unleashed "stage 2" clutch kit w/ 6 puck disc
Booger shifter bushings
1gen neon knob. Neon shifter swap in future?

Suspension and Brakes

Gas Adjust rear shocks
Monroe front struts
Shelby lancer front coils
Shelby csx rear coils
welded track bar
1g neon strut tower bar
KMP solid bobble strut
Big Brake kit (needs install)

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http://www.youtube.com/user/firefoxx04?feature=watch

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knightmoves

· #2 · Nov 10, 2010

well you have the best platform for the 3.0!!! the shadow/sundance is the lightest of the 3.0 cars! so you have the foundation! a low mileage 3.0 with a single owner! can't ask for better than that!!! you have done a lot of the hard work by getting the intake flipped! i think i would work on getting the heads done and buying the cams. get the engine mods done first so when you go turbo you'll be ready!!! IMO!!

pissst it's spelled Knightmoves!!!HAHA!!!

Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 10, 2010 (Edited by Moderator)

thanks man!

your the first person to say anything about cams. I know i should get the heads done but that can wait. Remember this is going to be a street car looking to go from running 15.5 to low 14s to high 13s. Thats my goal. Dr. shred did that easily with just a little boost and no cams or head work (if i remember right)

this guy is a bad influence on me

breaking into 12s without megasquirt and without staying in his power band due to not being able to get past 6200 (his cams made power much higher than that i guess.. and i would assume they didnt make much down low)

knightmoves

· #4 · Nov 10, 2010

Sundance 6g72 said:
your the first person to say anything about cams. I know i should get the heads done but that can wait. Remember this is going to be a street car looking to go from running 15.5 to low 14s to high 13s. Thats my goal. Dr. shred did that easily with just a little boost and no cams or head work (if i remember right)

this guy is a bad influence on me
YouTube - The Junkyard's First 12 second pass, 10psi and New Dual Diaphragm pressure plate.

breaking into 12s without megasquirt and without staying in his power band.

that is Brent! one of the guys that have created a lot of the info that we work with here! he really helped me with my build! the solid rockers was a great brake thru! because of that i now have a valve train that will be stable thru 7000 RPM!!! also Ed kelly he is the one who came up with the valve springs mods!!! so if your smart you'll listen to these 2 guys!!! they know their stuff!!! i guess i should explain my thinking. see i want to go to the 13's WITHOUT the turbo!!! then add the turbo after that!! i love a bull strong engine. so i set up engines that can stand on their own 2 feet then add the turbo!!!

Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 10, 2010

^ your thinking is deff the right way to go. The way i think about it is i just want be able to say i boosted my engine and be proud of it. If i had another car (yes its my DD) id deff take more time in it and rebuild the whole thing before modding it out.

knightmoves

· #6 · Nov 10, 2010

corrected you tube link!

Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 10, 2010

he was making aloooot of power per pound of boost but he also didnt have his car setup right for those runs.. so im thinking (and maybe im wrong) that 10lbs will get me into the low high 12s with some good driving

and does anyone have experience with filling motor mounts with window weld and using a solid bobble strut.

kreel

· #8 · Nov 10, 2010

Great to see you start a build thread. High 13's will be a walk in the park for a turbo 3.0L. But be warned, the power will get addicting

You're definitely on the right path: KMP crossover, 3" exhaust, and you've got the basic bolt-on's. You'll want to upgrade your clutch too. Stocker will hold 4 psi, but once you start cranking it up it'll get iffy.

Everyone has a different opinion on computer control. Ondonti and Dr. Shred have shown us all that "tricking" the stock computer can be feasible. Some like the idea of a piggy-back like e-Manage because it's easier to tune since you're just "enhancing" the stock computer's outputs. It's a great idea if you don't want to mess with base tune. Chrysler (and every other car company) spends hundreds, if not thousands, of hours tweaking tunes to make them function in all conditions. Then that brings us to other extreme: standalone. We only talk about MegaSquirt here because quite frankly none of us can afford other systems like AEM, BigStuff, SDS, lol. This, IMO, is the holy grail to complete power of your tune. Not everything likes to tune their own car, and even less can do a good job of it. It is not for the faint of heart, but there more people that work with it, and the more base tunes we can get, the easier it becomes for the "newbs" to enter this realm. I love it but there is a HUGE learning curve. My tunes still suck but each time I start tweaking I learn a little more. I work in IT so learning all the "computer stuff" is no biggie for me...but if you have problems turning on a computer then stay far, far away

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knightmoves

· #9 · Nov 10, 2010

Sundance 6g72 said:
he was making aloooot of power per pound of boost but he also didnt have his car setup right for those runs.. so im thinking (and maybe im wrong) that 10lbs will get me into the low high 12s with some good driving

and does anyone have experience with filling motor mounts with window weld and using a solid bobble strut.

i am using the solid bobble strut but the motor mounts i just bought a set of poly's from forward motion. try them you'll love them!!!

Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 10, 2010

rememeber, im cheep.. window weld with have to do. I dont need race car mounts

but i might be able to snag a neon bobble strut for cheep (from modern performance, its solid and adjustable) i heard they work on the older fwd mopars too and not just the neon its in.

kreel said:
Great to see you start a build thread. High 13's will be a walk in the park for a turbo 3.0L. But be warned, the power will get addicting

You're definitely on the right path: KMP crossover, 3" exhaust, and you've got the basic bolt-on's. You'll want to upgrade your clutch too. Stocker will hold 4 psi, but once you start cranking it up it'll get iffy.

Everyone has a different opinion on computer control. Ondonti and Dr. Shred have shown us all that "tricking" the stock computer can be feasible. Some like the idea of a piggy-back like e-Manage because it's easier to tune since you're just "enhancing" the stock computer's outputs. It's a great idea if you don't want to mess with base tune. Chrysler (and every other car company) spends hundreds, if not thousands, of hours tweaking tunes to make them function in all conditions. Then that brings us to other extreme: standalone. We only talk about MegaSquirt here because quite frankly none of us can afford other systems like AEM, BigStuff, SDS, lol. This, IMO, is the holy grail to complete power of your tune. Not everything likes to tune their own car, and even less can do a good job of it. It is not for the faint of heart, but there more people that work with it, and the more base tunes we can get, the easier it becomes for the "newbs" to enter this realm. I love it but there is a HUGE learning curve. My tunes still suck but each time I start tweaking I learn a little more. I work in IT so learning all the "computer stuff" is no biggie for me...but if you have problems turning on a computer then stay far, far away

thanks man. I have no problem working with computers but with megasquirt i know you need to solder on the board??? soldering wires is no biggy but when i start messing with a computer board that is going to run my CAR, i get a little iffy.

Would emanage be the way to go??? is it easier.. if i get an after market computer, it will be for getting fuel under boost and thats it.. no stand alone stuff.

also, do both hook up to a lap top for datalogging and tuning?

knightmoves

· #11 · Nov 10, 2010

OK here is a cheep mod for ya! go to the junk yard and look for a early to mid 90's mitsubishi DIAMANTE ES. pull the cams out and switch out your chrysler cams. this mod will only cost you about $50. and that includes the valve cover gaskets!!

bondbbs

· #12 · Nov 10, 2010

knightmoves91 said:
i am using the solid bobble strut but the motor mounts i just bought a set of poly's from forward motion. try them you'll love them!!!

Would there be any improvement to run solid welded mounts as opposed to poly / poly filled mounts?

I was thinking of welding steel plates to the sides of my mounts to basically stop them from moving at all.

knightmoves

· #13 · Nov 10, 2010

bondbbs said:
Would there be any improvement to run solid welded mounts as opposed to poly / poly filled mounts?

I was thinking of welding steel plates to the sides of my mounts to basically stop them from moving at all.

there is such a thing as to tight! a engine does need to move a bit just not as much as Ma Mopar said!! the poly lets the minor vibrations be absorbed by the poly. if the motor is to solid the car will shake and will lead to things braking!so poly is a nice tight fit that will give you solid traction with out killing parts!!

americankozak2

· #14 · Nov 10, 2010

i love reading build threads that are underway...as soon as i can find a car, pay for insurance, and afford to finish college and start law school i hope to have my own build thread one day.

Lookin good so far, listen to knightmoves and the others who have been there done it, can't really go wrong wit htheir advice

Shadow24V

· #15 · Nov 10, 2010

You'll be faster than you think on 10lbs of boost

im at 14.308 on a stock N/A 24v SOHC 3.0 (Full interior 5-speed).

Also, you can get the Megasquirt with the v3.57 board which is a SMD (surface mount components) taking 90%+ of the assembly out of the equation. Im running an MS-II presently and credit that to some of the power gains i have gotten.

Might need to think about a clutch upgrade if you go boosted too...stock clutch probably won't hold that kind of power for long

c2xejk

· #16 · Nov 10, 2010

Sundance 6g72 said:
thanks man!

your the first person to say anything about cams. I know i should get the heads done but that can wait. Remember this is going to be a street car looking to go from running 15.5 to low 14s to high 13s. Thats my goal. Dr. shred did that easily with just a little boost and no cams or head work (if i remember right)

The stock cams are pretty mild. I don't think you will hurt streetability with a step up in cams.

Would emanage be the way to go??? is it easier.. if i get an after market computer, it will be for getting fuel under boost and thats it.. no stand alone stuff.

also, do both hook up to a lap top for datalogging and tuning?

The emanage is way easier to get up and running. Most of the calibration work is taken care of by the factory.

If you want to keep the out of boost setup stock (ie. stock injectors, FPR, etc.) you might try one of these with some mongo fuel injectors. Additional Dual Injector Assembly - Ross Machine Racing

The emanage can control two auxillary injectors. So with the 3-bar emanage MAP sensor you can add fuel with the auxillary injectors and minimize the amount you have to mess with the stock wiring harness.

Ed Kelly - www.kmperformance.com

Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · #17 · Nov 10, 2010

cutting into the NA ecu harness and soldering to the piggy back harness is not an issue for me.

for fuel i plan on running a 255 pump, 30# injectors from DIY, a adjustable rising rate fuel pressure reg, and then mega squirt or emangage

so if i ran emange would i need to get a new fuel pressure reg (after getting bigger injectors)? if emanage lets the stock ecu tune the car when out of boost i would think that the ecu would back the pressure down to compensate for the bigger injectors? or would i still need an after market reg due to the higher flowing fuel pump (stock reg not being able to go low enough and causing me to run rich at idle)

make sense??

knightmoves91 said:
OK here is a cheep mod for ya! go to the junk yard and look for a early to mid 90's mitsubishi DIAMANTE ES. pull the cams out and switch out your chrysler cams. this mod will only cost you about $50. and that includes the valve cover gaskets!!

what kind of gains do they provide? i know its not huge but what is it exactly? and my local junkyard has noooo 12v 3.0 cars at all. ive looked.. i can go to another junkyard about 30min out that might have a car for me to pull them from. What all goes into installing new cams? just pop the valve cover off and swap them or what?

Shadow24V said:
You'll be faster than you think on 10lbs of boost im at 14.308 on a stock N/A 24v SOHC 3.0 (Full interior 5-speed).

Also, you can get the Megasquirt with the v3.57 board which is a SMD (surface mount components) taking 90%+ of the assembly out of the equation. Im running an MS-II presently and credit that to some of the power gains i have gotten.

Might need to think about a clutch upgrade if you go boosted too...stock clutch probably won't hold that kind of power for long

i cant wait to get boost man. im running on the factory clutch (thanks to dad babying the car.. i rarely get clutch problems right now) so getting a new clutch is a must considering how old this one is.. im going to wait till i need the clutch and upgrade to a strongger one rather than buying an oem one right now and then buying another when i have a bunch of power.

getting into the mid 13s is really all i want.. i dont want to be losing traction in 4th like mr ontoni?? (i cant spell it, ill refer to him as junkyard duster guy)

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knightmoves

· #18 · Nov 10, 2010

Sundance 6g72 said:
what kind of gains do they provide? i know its not huge but what is it exactly? and my local junkyard has noooo 12v 3.0 cars at all. ive looked.. i can go to another junkyard about 30min out that might have a car for me to pull them from. What all goes into installing new cams? just pop the valve cover off and swap them or what?

the cams will add to low end torque and HP. they have more duration than ours. and to be honest i think they are better suited for the turbo. and yes, it is a simple bolt on. its more detailed that just popping off the valve covers. but a true bolt on!

Sundance 6g72

Discussion Starter · #19 · Nov 11, 2010

5

is it a hour job or a 30min job assuming nothing goes wrong?

i scored this little jem last night when we were pulling a 2.4 from a neon

it should fitttt with just a little cutting or non at all. I found a site saying they all work for the neons and k cars.

edit: poor neon.. i liked this car with the 2.4

DUSTER WHEELS ON IT. ill get them back when im tired of the little 14s i got from the neon.

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bondbbs

· #20 · Nov 11, 2010

That neon looks like it could use a fresh coat of paint and a good buffing. I don't see the issue

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