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1990 dodge Daytona
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Hi guys new to this page and turbo mopars as well just purchased a 1990 Daytona that was a vnt car that some one swapped an 87 t-2 into but the car is a mess under the hood and needs everything redone the car runs but zero boost can hear the turbo kinda spool and it has a chincy intake not
Hooked up to the original and there is no hose to the waste gate and idk if it needs one or where it would go and last it looks like it’s running off the stock computer for the car I really
Don’t know where to start all help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Welcome!!

No hose gives max boost, wastegate arm disconnected gives min. boost.

What's a chincy intake ??

Many VNT Turbos get replaced with regular ones with no issues.

They then need manual boost control but that's no problem.

Try to make understandable questions and all will try to help.

Pictures also help.

Thanks
Randy
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome!!

No hose gives max boost, wastegate arm disconnected gives min. boost.

What's a chincy intake ??

Many VNT Turbos get replaced with regular ones with no issues.

They then need manual boost control but that's no problem.

Try to make understandable questions and all will try to help.

Pictures also help.

Thanks
Randy
I apologize

question 1can I run stock vnt computer with the t-2 swap with out a manual boost controller?

question 2: does the intake being a cheap after market filter and not
Run the factory way affect the computer or anything like that ?

Question 3: the guy I bought it off today removed the bov so the vacuum line that was attached to bov is just open and affects idle should is having a bov ideal?

As for little to no boost already checked all hoses for leaks will check to see if wastegate actuator is in working order tomorrow morning thank you for the reply
 

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Welcome to the community! My first recommendation is get you vacuums sorted out. The "vacuum manifolds" sold by vendors are a nice to have, but you can also get it done on super budget as well. I bought 1/4" pex from ace hardware...$2 for 10 feet. It easily slides over all of the stock nipples and is impressively secure. It probably wont last under the hood for too long, but it sure makes troubleshooting easier.

1) seal the vacuums
2) change the oil
3) change the fuel filter
4) check and address all codes

Good luck! Keep us posted!
~Mark
 

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No problem friend!!

1: I don't think so but manual boost control is the way to go.

2: Only if its plugged or something, many run cone filters.

3: Factory T-II Engines don't even have BOV's. Get it sorted out first.

Boost opens the wastegate, not vacuum, but we call them vacuum lines.

The actuator has an approx 7 psi spring keeping the waste gate closed.

As boost reaches approx 7 psi the actuator opens the wastegate.

The actuator rod has to be attached to the waste gate arm.

The little attaching clip is often missing resulting in low boost.

Kind of a pressure balance system.

Run a direct line from Engine vacuum to actuator and get approx 7 psi.

Good starting point to get it sorted out.

As GforthSRT mentions above get your vacuum lines sorted out.

Check for fault codes, learn the key dance if you haven't yet.

The factory vacuum harness can be very complicated.

Simplify it with a simple vacuum block.

Supply Engine vacuum to a vacuum block with a few nipples.

Provide vacuum to where it's needed from each nipple.

MAP sensor/baro--wastegate actuator--boost gauge--FPR

Check for and eliminate any vacuum leaks.

Keep the vacuum line for brake booster intact.

Normally there is a small line from the booster to the heater control.

Forget about PCV, cap its vacuum source and run a hose from the valve cover nipple.

This is a good starting point!!

Thanks
Randy




I apologize

question 1can I run stock vnt computer with the t-2 swap with out a manual boost controller?

question 2: does the intake being a cheap after market filter and not
Run the factory way affect the computer or anything like that ?

Question 3: the guy I bought it off today removed the bov so the vacuum line that was attached to bov is just open and affects idle should is having a bov ideal?

As for little to no boost already checked all hoses for leaks will check to see if wastegate actuator is in working order tomorrow morning thank you for the reply
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #6
No problem friend!!

1: I don't think so but manual boost control is the way to go.

2: Only if its plugged or something, many run cone filters.

3: Factory T-II Engines don't even have BOV's. Get it sorted out first.

Boost opens the wastegate, not vacuum, but we call them vacuum lines.

The actuator has an approx 7 psi spring keeping the waste gate closed.

As boost reaches approx 7 psi the actuator opens the wastegate.

The actuator rod has to be attached to the waste gate arm.

The little attaching clip is often missing resulting in low boost.

Kind of a pressure balance system.

Run a direct line from Engine vacuum to actuator and get approx 7 psi.

Good starting point to get it sorted out.

As GforthSRT mentions above get your vacuum lines sorted out.

Check for fault codes, learn the key dance if you haven't yet.

The factory vacuum harness can be very complicated.

Simplify it with a simple vacuum block.

Supply Engine vacuum to a vacuum block with a few nipples.

Provide vacuum to where it's needed from each nipple.

MAP sensor/baro--wastegate actuator--boost gauge--

Check for and eliminate any vacuum leaks.

Keep the vacuum line for brake booster intact.

Normally there is a small line from the booster to the heater control.

Forget about PCV, cap its vacuum source and run a hose from the valve cover nipple.

This is a good starting point!!

Thanks
Randy
272306
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So the car has a vac block but the 4 lines are going to the fpr, the two lines coming off of the throttle body ,one goes around to right next to the strut tower and through the firewall, and the last is just going to the solenoid next to the block.

I also checked the wastegate it was attached but I could not move the rod at all.

Thanks Steven
 

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Rip out all the lines. Run a line from the intake to the vac block (gawd I hate these things) Then from the Ford technology crap block, you'll need a line to the baro solenoid which is mounted next to the map sensor on the firewall. A little line from the baro to the MAP which it looks like you have. Next you need a line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on the fuel rail. Then a line to the Wastegate (WG) actuator on the turbo. You can have a line to the boost gauge in the car as well if you want. CAP everything else on the motor off. Now go out and see if you get 5-7psi of boost. If not you could have a boost leak in the piping from the turbo to the intake. If you don't then make sure the turbo is spinning and not contacting the housings with too much bearing play.
 

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I recently had experience with the wrong computer myself. The ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is often called "the brain" because it controls so many engine parameters. The problem with the VNT ECU is that it will have specific flow charts related to that particular motor, so it might still run, but not run properly. I installed a 2.5 turbo II in my '89 Lancer Shelby and for awhile I drove with the 2.2 ECU until NAJ pointed out that it was the wrong ECU. What I experienced was rapid acceleration with not much moderation, as soon as I cracked the throttle it was like -- off to the races! Kind of fun, but the gas mileage was terrible! So you need to find out what ECU you are using. There are numbers on the top of the ECU casing, and these numbers are important because the ECUs all look the same. I think that Forward Motion may have some used ECUs For Sale. Or someone in the Turbo-Dodge community may have a spare one to sell.
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #9
Alright I temped up all my vac lines with scrap hose and zip ties ( im buying a silicone vac hose kit) I’m just trying to work the kinks out before I redo all the hosing on this thing. Left the waste gate hose off.

pulled the intake to check compressor for shaft play side to side front and back was told turbo is pretty new and looks fairly new and in good shape and it’s a garret turbo. I reinstalled intake and took her for a test drive was hitting up to 12 lbs but boost didn’t really
Come on to about 5k rpm is that normal?
Thanks
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #10
I recently had experience with the wrong computer myself. The ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is often called "the brain" because it controls so many engine parameters. The problem with the VNT ECU is that it will have specific flow charts related to that particular motor, so it might still run, but not run properly. I installed a 2.5 turbo II in my '89 Lancer Shelby and for awhile I drove with the 2.2 ECU until NAJ pointed out that it was the wrong ECU. What I experienced was rapid acceleration with not much moderation, as soon as I cracked the throttle it was like -- off to the races! Kind of fun, but the gas mileage was terrible! So you need to find out what ECU you are using. There are numbers on the top of the ECU casing, and these numbers are important because the ECUs all look the same. I think that Forward Motion may have some used ECUs For Sale. Or someone in the Turbo-Dodge community may have a spare one to sell.
thanks for the reply
My car runs ok until 5k rpm when the boost comes on it has the stock 90 vnt computer should I get an 87 t-2 computer maybe a calibrated unit from some one

thanks
 

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Here is a page from the Forward Motion catalog.
and it has some of the numbers for the different computers. Actually, boost should start much earlier than 5k.
In fact, there is a limiter to stop full boost until one gets to 3k, but the advantage of a turbo is to get boost at low rpms, like 2k or so. The rule here is that Speed Kills, esp. if you run a lot of high rpm,, etc. that puts a lot of stress on the valve springs. A Dodge Turbo does not need high rpm to generate some good torque and HP.
 

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Don't confuse things talking about computers.

Hopefully you're not going ricer with colored silicone hoses.

Something is wrong if you are boosting slowly with the line off.

With the line off, which is not good, you should be over boosting.

Also not good!!

1: Is the Engine starting, running and driving fine other than the boost issue?

2: Do you have any codes or check Engine light?

From there we can concentrate on the waste gate actuator.

Obviously with no line attached the issue isn't vacuum or electronic.

3: You did say its a T-II Garrett not a VNT Garrett, right??

Thanks
Randy


Alright I temped up all my vac lines with scrap hose and zip ties ( im buying a silicone vac hose kit) I’m just trying to work the kinks out before I redo all the hosing on this thing. Left the waste gate hose off.

pulled the intake to check compressor for shaft play side to side front and back was told turbo is pretty new and looks fairly new and in good shape and it’s a garret turbo. I reinstalled intake and took her for a test drive was hitting up to 12 lbs but boost didn’t really
Come on to about 5k rpm is that normal?
Thanks
 

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No problem friend!!

Yours was a different set of circumstances.

I believe you replaced a 2.2 T-II Engine with a 2.5 Engine?

In that case one has unique issues, resolvable in different ways.

I was commenting on Slam considering using a 87 T-II computer.

He's replacing the same size Engine, still using the same size injectors.

The 87 T-II part is extremely impractical although it's not entirely impossible.

He replaced the same size Engine and still is using the same size injectors.

His Engine should run and drive fine once he gets the basics sorted out.

I was trying to keep him on track as best as I could, not bash you!

Thanks
Dude !!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Don't confuse things talking about computers.

Hopefully you're not going ricer with colored silicone hoses.

Something is wrong if you are boosting slowly with the line off.

With the line off, which is not good, you should be over boosting.

Also not good!!

1: Is the Engine starting, running and driving fine other than the boost issue?

2: Do you have any codes or check Engine light?

From there we can concentrate on the waste gate actuator.

Obviously with no line attached the issue isn't vacuum or electronic.

3: You did say its a T-II Garrett not a VNT Garrett, right??

Thanks
Randy
Okay let’s rewind a little bit With back story. I bought the car as is and was told it was 87 t-2 swapped and under the hood is really bad and a big mess I believe it’s t-2 swapped and I confirmed it’s running the factory vnt computer I’m pretty good with a wrench but this car is older then me so I’m learning so bear with me

I see garret on the compressor cover but I don’t know how to tell the difference between the regular garret and the vnt garret

The car starts fine might stumble a second after start up but seems to run decent without boost and idles around 1000 rpm I have everything I need for the vacuum lines I just haven’t had a chance to work on it I wanna move the vacuum block and redo all the vacuum lines 100 percent to make sure everything is good and no I’m going with black lines

My goal here is to verify the engine can run good and everything work as it should before I tear all the coolant lines inter cooler lines p/s pump and start over with new and various issues with the “aftermarket” fan and radiator

if I showed you a full picture of the engine bay you would throw up
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No problem friend!!

Yours was a different set of circumstances.

I believe you replaced a 2.2 T-II Engine with a 2.5 Engine?

In that case one has unique issues, resolvable in different ways.

I was commenting on Slam considering using a 87 T-II computer.

He's replacing the same size Engine, still using the same size injectors.

The 87 T-II part is extremely impractical although it's not entirely impossible.

He replaced the same size Engine and still is using the same size injectors.

His Engine should run and drive fine once he gets the basics sorted out.

I was trying to keep him on track as best as I could, not bash you!

Thanks
Dude !!
Sorry brain fart turbo is garret with a wastegate so not vnt
 

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Right on, we have all been there before.

Id suggest that you start by taking note of every vacuum line that is currently on the car. Number them if you like, and then jot a description of where the start and end. Right? A vacuum line only has 2 ends. This exercise will familiarize you with some of the components on the car as well as simplify what you are looking at. Chances are, it will also reveal a couple of issues.

Post up your findings, perhaps with a photo so we can ID the solenoids and components that you cant call out by name, and we can easily give you a "A to B, 1 to 2".

You will be making gains in the knowledge department.

Keep in mind that any open hole/port on the black intake manifold and throttle body should be treated as a "vacuum source" and will need to be capped or utilized by the end of this exercise.

Good Luck!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I took your advice and rerouted everything with new vacuum hose and still no chance so I said whatever and sprayed around with some starter fluid and bam back of the manifold the nipple that runs to the brake booster was a double Headed and had two nipples so plugged that up and driver her starts making boost at like 3500 and starts hitting hard at 45 so idk more things need to be straightened out I guess
 

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Nice! Progress!

Now spend the time and make sure its all legit 100%.

If u find something and dont know/understand what it is, find out. Generate a question and seek the answer. Before u know it youll know everything about whats under your hood. Then the tinkering begins.

Good work!
Mark
 
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