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No boost until 3.500 RPM right?

Still no line to the wastegate actuator, right??

Otherwise, running fine and no check Engine light, right??

Thanks
Randy
 

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Lol, sounds like you already lnow the answer Randy.

Alright, ima bite. I like to learn too. Whats his problem? If he doesnt have a vac line to the wastegate actuator, how would he not be overboosting?

~Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #23
No boost until 3.500 RPM right?

Still no line to the wastegate actuator, right??

Otherwise, running fine and no check Engine light, right??

Thanks
Randy
Yes, yes, and it shows a code 12 but light isn’t currently on

I let off before over boost Trying to be cautious plus running out of rpms
 

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That's what were trying to figure out!

Wanted to make sure it's running properly electronically.

It sounds like the computer is not causing any issues, no CEL.

Actuator or swingvalve lever may be stuck or modified in some way??

Slam, can you again examine the actuator??

There's normally a little clip holding the rod to the lever.

With the clip removed the lever should move easily.

The rod should slip up off the lever with the clip removed.

Tho hole in the rod should fall on the lever pin without much pressure.

What I mean they should fit without much in-out movement of the rod.

We don't know whats been done so are looking for man made problems.

The rod/lever/pin should be in agreeable alignment and ready to move.

Much preload either way indicates something is possibly mismatched?

Approx 7 psi air pressure/boost should move the rod out of the actuator.

A defective/broken/mismatched actuator may not respond properly.

If you understand, check things out and report back.

Thanks
Randy





Lol, sounds like you already lnow the answer Randy.

Alright, ima bite. I like to learn too. Whats his problem? If he doesnt have a vac line to the wastegate actuator, how would he not be overboosting?

~Mark
Yes, yes, and it shows a code 12 but light isn’t currently on

I let off before over boost Trying to be cautious plus running out of rpms
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #25
That's what were trying to figure out!

Wanted to make sure it's running properly electronically.

It sounds like the computer is not causing any issues, no CEL.

Actuator or swingvalve lever may be stuck or modified in some way??

Slam, can you again examine the actuator??

There's normally a little clip holding the rod to the lever.

With the clip removed the lever should move easily.

The rod should slip up off the lever with the clip removed.

Tho hole in the rod should fall on the lever pin without much pressure.

What I mean they should fit without much in-out movement of the rod.

We don't know whats been done so are looking for man made problems.

The rod/lever/pin should be in agreeable alignment and ready to move.

Much preload either way indicates something is possibly mismatched?

Approx 7 psi air pressure/boost should move the rod out of the actuator.

A defective/broken/mismatched actuator may not respond properly.

If you understand, check things out and report back.

Thanks
Randy
Randy I removed waste gate actuator rod clip (lost it for the time being because it’s dark) and swing valve is 100% moves very well back and forth like I said turbo looks fairly new but the waste Gate it’s self is a different story it really doesn’t feel like 7 psi could even open it
 

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The actuators are pretty stiff so they can be tough to move manually.

With the actuator off, go for a drive and see if your boost acts the same.

Boost starts at 3,500 RPM and hits at 4,500 RPM I believe you said??

Do you have a boost gauge factory or otherwise??

Seems like the Engine is running well and you eventually get boost?

Is the above correct ??

Reply and then:

When you get a chance, place the actuator rod hole on the lever arm pin.

Note where the actuator bracket bolts to the turbo, any clearance in between??

Or do you have to pull the on the actuator to get it to slip on the turbo.

If there's space between the actuator bracket and the turbo estimate how much.

And then:

When you get a clip and reinstall the actuator bracket, fill the gap with flat wasters.

With the clip attached you want to tug on the actuator to place the washers.

Please check the above and reply to each part individually.

I'm old and need to keep on the same page.

Thanks
Randy
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #27
The actuators are pretty stiff so they can be tough to move manually.

With the actuator off, go for a drive and see if your boost acts the same.

Boost starts at 3,500 RPM and hits at 4,500 RPM I believe you said??

Do you have a boost gauge factory or otherwise??

Seems like the Engine is running well and you eventually get boost?

Is the above correct ??

Reply and then:

When you get a chance, place the actuator rod hole on the lever arm pin.

Note where the actuator bracket bolts to the turbo, any clearance in between??

Or do you have to pull the on the actuator to get it to slip on the turbo.

If there's space between the actuator bracket and the turbo estimate how much.

And then:

When you get a clip and reinstall the actuator bracket, fill the gap with flat wasters.

With the clip attached you want to tug on the actuator to place the washers.

Please check the above and reply to each part individually.

I'm old and need to keep on the same page.

Thanks
Randy
Soooooooooo I’ve tracked down the problem and put a “bandaid” on it for now so I shouldn’t have ignored it and I should have looked into It. I thought the exhaust leak I had was after the turbo and pretty much ive been working on this car in the dark which makes it hard I have two little ones and it’s getting dark pretty early any way my screw up was there wasn’t even a bolt in the last hole for the exhaust manifold on the p/s of the vehicle a huge leak enough of a leak to delay boosting until rpms were through the roof. About an inch of the gasket is blown but I found a bolt that matched (Cummins egr delete bolt) and tightened it down pretty snug to help as much as possible reinstalled waste Gate which the rod had to be pulled out a little to go on the swing valve and I haven’t found the clip but I left the vac hose of the waste gate so the rod keeps the swing valve closed for the time being and then I took her for a drive and it’s been raining but man 1st gear by 3500 I was just blowing the tires off and every gear I could hear the turbo way clearer with plenty of power I know now I’ll have to pull the head and redo the gasket but I’m pulling the engine to redo the bay anyway. So with all the help I really appreciate it especially with the vacuum lines and the turbo info I feel dumb for not noticing the leak but o well I guess you gotta learn somehow any way time for the project to really begin
Thank you
Steven
 

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Thats great news! Im happy you got it figured out. There are huge benefits to grtting in there and poking around, often time the problems are right under your nose.

Keep us updated on your project progress!

Good luck!
Mark
 

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So now you are experiencing no boost control !!

Fun but dangerous, for education put a vacuum/boost line to the waste gate actuator.

You should experience approx 7 psi. and then learn how to safely raise it.

You're doing good!!

Thanks
Randy
 

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1990 dodge Daytona
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Discussion Starter #30
So now you are experiencing no boost control !!

Fun but dangerous, for education put a vacuum/boost line to the waste gate actuator.

You should experience approx 7 psi. and then learn how to safely raise it.

You're doing good!!

Thanks
Randy
Thanks there is tension on the swing valve so it won’t open because no clip I didn’t want the arm to fall off while testing so I left the wastegate line not hooked up. When I get the clip I will install the boost controller and relocate the vac block either to the manifold or the fire wall. The car isn’t legal yet so I just drive it down my road to test things out will not be driving with w/g unhooked. Another thing I noticed after consuming enough info about turbo dodges in a week to make my head explode is that I decided the vin on 2 diff sites and it says the car was a 3.0 so maybe some one t-4 swapped it because it seems to have the vnt solenoids in p/s fender and then swapped the vnt
For a garret for a t-2 status? Idk the car is confusing I figured the fender tag could give me the truth but I cannot decode it no sites work anymore when I search
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