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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ahhhhh im gonna punch my tach through the cluster! 90 shelby. Fixed tach 3 times in the last couple yrs. last 2 times it only lasted for maybe a month each time. I re melted all the solder spots on the back of the whole cluster each time and even added new solder. between fixing that and my stupid turn signal with the super dumb hockey stick lever every so often Im gonna hard wire my whole car lol.
 

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I hear ya man....

Just consider the fact that the factory tach wasn't all that accurate to begin with, You'll care less and less if it really works.:)

I learned to drive stick on a car with no tach. I shift when the car "feels" right(laugh all you want;)). I only look at my tach now at cruise because of the gas prices.
 

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^ I agree on the shifting
I have never looked at the GLHS' tach when I shift.
If I am saving gas mileage I shift before I feel like I am going into boost and WOT I shift when I feel the power dropping off
 

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ahhhhh im gonna punch my tach through the cluster! 90 shelby. Fixed tach 3 times in the last couple yrs. last 2 times it only lasted for maybe a month each time. I re melted all the solder spots on the back of the whole cluster each time and even added new solder. between fixing that and my stupid turn signal with the super dumb hockey stick lever every so often Im gonna hard wire my whole car lol.
Have you actually dealt with the tach driver PCB on the right side of the cluster or just the connections on the back of the cluster? The driver PCB is usually the issue, and reflowing the solder sometimes helps repair the tach issues. If you have not done this board, then removing and reinstalling the cluster may be making bumping it enough to make contact for a while before it shakes loose again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I resoldered the cluster and looked at the driver board and didn't see or feel any cracked solder joints but re did it as well along with the stupid circuit boards that sit in that poor excuse for a cluster bezel with all the switches on it. rear wiper switch was being goofy and ive had alot of problems with my turn signals. Seemed to solve all my problems for now. we'll see how long it lasts.
 

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Yeah I resoldered the cluster and looked at the driver board and didn't see or feel any cracked solder joints but re did it as well along with the stupid circuit boards that sit in that poor excuse for a cluster bezel with all the switches on it. rear wiper switch was being goofy and ive had alot of problems with my turn signals. Seemed to solve all my problems for now. we'll see how long it lasts.
:) For now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah. that was the 3rd time I re soldered the back of the cluster. It usually works for acouple months and then I need to do it again.
 

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Dang, I don't haven't had that problem with my 90 daytona, is it stuck or just stop working? Maybe need to clean the grease the needle?


On the other hand I've had a broken hazard/turn signal cancellator, and now I need to replace my clockspring for the 2nd time! I have more angst for the clockspring than anything else!
 

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Dang, I don't haven't had that problem with my 90 daytona, is it stuck or just stop working? Maybe need to clean the grease the needle?


On the other hand I've had a broken hazard/turn signal cancellator, and now I need to replace my clockspring for the 2nd time! I have more angst for the clockspring than anything else!
well, it is from the 90's... so that would explain the angst:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What happens when your clockspring died? no horn, cruise, air bag light on, what?
 

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What happens when your clockspring died? no horn, cruise, air bag light on, what?
Those + the flex cable starts to cruch up made crunchy sounds when turning while also at times making it hard to turn the steering wheel since it binds up the clockspring therefore you have to yank the wheel harder to make the turn which can be a bit scary since it makes the wheel hard intermittantly when not expecting it.

Alternatively you can pull it out and just cover the air bag light and live with it, but I want my dang horn since people here can't drive worth a crap, stealership wants like 300+ for a new one!
 
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