[cawcislo]

I saw a post about preventing the oil getting into your air filter housing without using a catch can. I noticed someone mentioning using the metal baffle that they use on tbi engines. Has somone used this under a turbo valve cover. How much modification do you need to make to the tbi metal baffle to get it to fit? This could be a nice fix for our cars and once and for all not have to worrry about oil in our pcv system and all over our air filters and transmission. Maybe someone could test it out and post some pictures of what needs to be done to the tbi baffle to get it to work. Thanks.

 

[tryingbe]

First attempt to eliminate oil mess was to remove the baffle inside the turbo valve cover, and plug the bolt holes that bolts the baffle to the turbo valve cover. Then use a TBI oil splash guard underneath the turbo valve cover. Work better than stock, but not that much better.

Second attempt was to get rid of the turbo valve cover completely and use the TBI valve cover with the oil splash guard. Works MUCH better as you can see.

With the turbo valve cover, you still only have ONE PCV in/out let from the valve cover. In a proper PCV system, you need TWO in/out lets. I believe having only one in/out let is the primary problem with the turbo valve cover. So, add another in/out let to your turbo valve cover if you a proper PCV system.

Maybe someone could test it out and post some pictures of what needs to be done to the tbi baffle to get it to work. Thanks.

Maybe that someone needs to be YOU!

Here's the list of stuff you'll need to make it happen.

Drill hole, get a 5/8 metal tube, sand paper j/b, weld, paint, TBI's PCV rubber grommet, 3/8 emission hose, 5/8 emission hose, etc. Good luck.


I like my TBI valve cover just fine.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/forsale/tbivalvecover/

 

[detobias]

I saw a post about preventing the oil getting into your air filter housing without using a catch can. I noticed someone mentioning using the metal baffle that they use on tbi engines.

are you referring to the stamped steel Quiet Idle curtain, which is quite large and covers almost all the camshaft and valve train, fitting underneath the VC ?

if so, this curtain was standard on TBI after late 87 / 88 with the Quiet Idle package (also including the upgrade to roller cam)

using it requires no modifications ; it can be retrofitted to earlier engines WAIT SEE NEXT POST

[ ?? Curtain not OE for 87+ cast alumTURBO VCs ?? ! ]

buy fresh rubber bumpers for it ChryCo part , abou 2$ each, you need 2

the curtain does indeed help with oil control, and of course quiets valvettrain clatter

PS cast TBI VC FTW :thumbsup:

 

[Oclk Dlux]

I snagged my "curtain" from a 93 TBI motor and got it to fit under my turbo valve cover, but with an interesting modification. First, you have to remove the stock oil splash guard that sits on #1 & #2 cam caps. Second, since there's a 1.5" gap between the shield & valve cover, the stock rubber bumpers will not work. So I bought two Lakewood traction bar bumpers, trim each bolt down to 1/8" long, drilled the curtain for the bolt to fit through, and welded them to the curtain from the inside. Last, trim the bumpers so the turbo valve cover puts a slight tension on the curtain when bolted down. This way it doesn't rattle around and drive you insane. Everything else remains stock. I've had no oil control problems at full boost and I was able to turn the boost up a bit since the engine wasn't drawing in oil vapor anymore. I should have done this long time ago!

 

[ButchSuppe]

I use the curtain under my turbo V/C, you need to round the top over + do a little triming. I use a small bracket that clamps under the cam cap bolt to hold it in place. It's a peice of cake to make.

 

[phantomrt]

Interesting... I think I am going to do this the next time I have my valve cover off. Every little bit of sound refinement adds up...

Or, instead of a catch can, rig the PCV vapors to drain back into the crankcase like they did on the '89+ T-1's. If you have a garret turbo, you need a VNT oil return pipe. Mine works fine--I don't have any oil leakage all over the transmission and the air filter does stay dry. The turbo's oil return pipe has an extra barb on it to attach to the drain in the air box. Just don't forget the check valve thats in-line with that oil drain or crankcase pressure will push crankcase oil up into your air filter and soak it well.

 

[Reaper1]

I've used a TBI curtain under a non-modded Turbo V/C. I had to trim the curtain where the baffle is on the inside of the TURBO V/C and remove the little one that is in place on the #1/#2 cam caps. Other than that she fit right in and works great!

 

[Oclk Dlux]

I've had no oil control problems at full boost and I was able to turn the boost up a bit since the engine wasn't drawing in oil vapor anymore. I should have done this long time ago!

Well, it was working.....:bang head
I checked after a few weeks with several WOT hits and I found oil in the airbox. I'll try the TBI valve cover as Tryingbe did and see what happens.

If that doesn't work, the only thing I have left is to block the oil spray passages on #2 - #4 cam caps (running a roller) and install a crank scraper to keep the oily "fog" under control.

 

[shelbymaniac]

I changed my 2.5 turbo to the cast aluminum tbi valve cover with inner shield baffle. I don't use the stock airbox and still get oil everywhere at high boost. I have 1 pcv hooked up as before and the other pcv with a "t" grommet hooked to a pcv and a tube going to a small k&n breather. Oil everywhere. I guess I need a catch can. Was worth the try but didn't work for me.
MOPARMANIAC

 

[tryingbe]

Why are you hooking up the valve cover to TWO PCV?

 

[shelbymaniac]

Why are you hooking up the valve cover to TWO PCV?

What should I hook up the other line to? Just a hose with a breather on the end? The 2nd PCV is not functional other than to plug the hole on the 3 way rubber fitting. I did also notice that the cheap silicone hoses I bought on ebay just collapse once they are hot and are perhaps plugging the whole airflow through them. I am replacing them with rubber now.
MOPARMANIAC

 

[tryingbe]

Rubber won't last with oil. You want 5/8 silicone heater core hoses. Yes, they're expensive but they will last.

And define "high boost"

 

[shelbymaniac]

Rubber won't last with oil. You want 5/8 silicone heater core hoses. Yes, they're expensive but they will last.

And define "high boost"

High boost for my car is 22-25 lbs. Also what would I hook up to with 5/8 inch heater hose? It looks like all the factory hoses were rubber and they have lasted quite a long time other than some ends getting hard and brittle from heat. That size seems very big for any of this. I am trying to eliminate any oil in the system but it still gets in there with the pcv setup so I was just going to install a catch can on the second tube from the valve cover opposite the pcv.
MOPARMANIAC

 

[tryingbe]

That green silicone hose is 5/8 inch. You'd just run the hose to the catch can and to a air filter instead of to the airbox like I am.

 

[kpic]

Or, instead of a catch can, rig the PCV vapors to drain back into the crankcase like they did on the '89+ T-1's. If you have a garret turbo, you need a VNT oil return pipe. Mine works fine-

I have thought of this but how did you make this work? The VNT return line with the nipple has one bolt and the T2 has two bolts? Are they physically different?