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The GLHS Cars: Factory Suspension Alignment Specs

3K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  INSATANSSEAT 
#1 ·
I have the correct alignment specs for the 1987 GLHS.
These may or may not be correct for the 1986 GLHS.
The specs below are from my '87 GLHS factory service manual.

273744
 
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#2 ·
Just dropped my 87 off this morning and they told me they are not sure they can even perform an alignment due to its age and lack of database info. I requested they put it on the rack and take a look as its simply camber and toe. Seems simple enough to me to get in specs. I guess I will see in a couple hours if they were able to get it or not.

Thanks for posting!
 
#3 ·
Any place that gives you that line doesn't deserve your business.
That's pure ignorance, especially when you give them the specs to go by.

I always had a hard time finding a place in NY that would manually punch in the specs I gave them.
They all said that the machine was automated and worked off the VIN.
At one place, the guy aligned it to Daytona specs.
He insisted it was a G body and I didn't know what I was talking about.
I finally found s place in Mineola NY that only did exotics & road race cars.
They were happy to do the alignment.
 
#4 ·
Just a little FYI guys, if you have nice Centurians, pizza's, etc. restored or original be aware that when they mount their alignment heads on them, they will make small indentations in the aluminum or clearcoat in the wheels. I always have a beater set of wheels I put on the car when I'm doing any alignment work. I just make sure that they're true and straight.
Yes, I always start conversation out like this, since I'm the one paying for the alignment and not you, I want you to align the vehicle to the specs. I give you. It is only camber and toe. If you can't or won't do this, I won't do business with you.
I agree with GLHS0325, anyone that declares age being a factor, it is best to find someone else. That has happened to me plenty of times too.
One new guy that replaced an old timer that retired (great guy) told me he would never align a car that old. This was of course after I got there. The shop had no problem making an appointment for my car. This was a 89 Sterling SLI. Based on the Acura Legend platform, it was a joint venture with Austin Rover, sort of like the Chrysler Maserati TC. I told him the car spent it's whole life in San Antonio, TX. Should have been a super easy money maker for the shop. It was completely rust free and the only alignment spec was toe. Everything else is non adjustable. Told him the only reason it needs an alignment was because I replaced the outer tie rod ends with NOS parts. So brand new parts on a rust free car, and he asked me if I was deaf? I'm usually a pretty quiet soft spoken guy but I told him to F off, right to his face. I've met my share of alignment guys that are out there. There is a reason why some of these guys tend to work alone.
 
#5 ·
Just a little FYI guys, if you have nice Centurians, pizza's, etc. restored or original be aware that when they mount their alignment heads on them, they will make small indentations in the aluminum or clearcoat in the wheels. I always have a beater set of wheels I put on the car when I'm doing any alignment work. I just make sure that they're true and straight.
Yes, I always start conversation out like this, since I'm the one paying for the alignment and not you, I want you to align the vehicle to the specs. I give you. It is only camber and toe. If you can't or won't do this, I won't do business with you.
I agree with GLHS0325, anyone that declares age being a factor, it is best to find someone else. That has happened to me plenty of times too.
One new guy that replaced an old timer that retired (great guy) told me he would never align a car that old. This was of course after I got there. The shop had no problem making an appointment for my car. This was a 89 Sterling SLI. Based on the Acura Legend platform, it was a joint venture with Austin Rover, sort of like the Chrysler Maserati TC. I told him the car spent it's whole life in San Antonio, TX. Should have been a super easy money maker for the shop. It was completely rust free and the only alignment spec was toe. Everything else is non adjustable. Told him the only reason it needs an alignment was because I replaced the outer tie rod ends with NOS parts. So brand new parts on a rust free car, and he asked me if I was deaf? I'm usually a pretty quiet soft spoken guy but I told him to F off, right to his face. I've met my share of alignment guys that are out there. There is a reason why some of these guys tend to work alone.
Another good recommendation on the wheels.
I've seen what you're talking about with the 4-point claw-like device.
I'm very lucky to have a spare set of Centurian II's that I can use for the alignment.

Does the brand and model of tire used on both sets of rims need to be the same to get the alignment right?
 
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#6 · (Edited)
I agree with what you guys are saying. They told me their machine did not have the specs for even an 87 SC so they were not sure what they could adjust or not. I told them its just toe and camber. In the end I spoke with the alignment tech (not the front office guy) and explained what I wanted, gave him the GLHS spec sheet and he got it where it needed to be.

The car feels a ton better than prior to all the suspension parts replacement and alignment, but I still wish it had more feedback in the steering wheel. I drove my DD and realized the reason I think it feels a bit numb is the GLHS has a constant pressure from the pump (not speed variable) where as all new cars seem to have a variable pressure based off speed or electrical assist so you get more road feel transmitted back to the wheel. At least that is what I feel is going on with me.
 
#9 ·
I agree with what you guys are saying. They told me their machine did not have the specs for even an 87 SC so they were not sure what they could adjust or not. I told them its just toe and camber. In the end I spoke with the alignment tech (not the front office guy) and explained what I wanted, gave him the GLHS spec sheet and he got it where it needed to be.

The car feels a ton better than prior to all the suspension parts replacement and alignment, but I still wish it had more feedback in the steering wheel. I drove my DD and realized the reason I think it feels a bit numb is the GLHS has a constant pressure from the pump (not speed variable) where as all new cars seem to have a variable pressure based off speed or electrical assist so you get more road feel transmitted back to the wheel. At least that is what I feel is going on with me.
The feedback sort of depends on tire selection and alignment. I've had nothing but soft compound DOT legal tires on all my GLH's and SC's for the past 30+ years and handling is razor sharp. Nothing over 200 treadwear and many times much less. I recently bought another GLHT that had some random cheap long lasting tires on it. It's like driving a whole different animal, a wounded weak animal (lol).
My advice is next time align your car closer to the specs Jay or I posted. You'll then see what you've been missing.
 
#20 ·
Has anyone here ever had a first gen base Daytona? From my experience, that setup is the absolute best if you like to have oversteer in your FWD Chrysler. So basically, K body springs, struts, and shocks in a G body. I find myself drifting with surprising control sometimes in Steph's bronze '86.

Does anyone have the most aggressive camber specs for straight line traction in a Koni L body?
 
#21 ·
Good question regarding the Koni's.
I would think the adjustable damping would play a part in how it's aligned.
 
#24 ·
Years ago I read exactly what it needs to be set at to be zero camber and toe when the front end comes up, but I can't remember where it was posted. I should have put the info in my big TD folder. I am not concerned with tire wear. The car is a street car, but the furthest from a daily something could be. It hasn't touched the street since July of '17. And between July of '15 and '17 I only put 70 miles on it.
 
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