Turbo Dodge Forums banner
21 - 24 of 24 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Has anyone here ever had a first gen base Daytona? From my experience, that setup is the absolute best if you like to have oversteer in your FWD Chrysler. So basically, K body springs, struts, and shocks in a G body. I find myself drifting with surprising control sometimes in Steph's bronze '86.

Does anyone have the most aggressive camber specs for straight line traction in a Koni L body?
Good question regarding the Koni's.
I would think the adjustable damping would play a part in how it's aligned.
 
Has anyone here ever had a first gen base Daytona? From my experience, that setup is the absolute best if you like to have oversteer in your FWD Chrysler. So basically, K body springs, struts, and shocks in a G body. I find myself drifting with surprising control sometimes in Steph's bronze '86.

Does anyone have the most aggressive camber specs for straight line traction in a Koni L body?
What I have found that works well is -1/2° camber up front, -1/4° in rear and zero toe front and back. Not really aggressive, but plants the tires well. This would be for a drag car setting. The cars suspension will go positive as the suspension is unloaded, hence the initial negative camber. Zero toe is obviously for least amount of rolling resistance. What I don't do is set the Koni's too stiff in the back, as you need the suspension to rebound quickly. Your Koni's are adjustable in rebound and not compression unless they've been modified to do so. A drag car (and autocross applications) could really use a lot more rear spring in it, as they squat pretty hard at launch and shift points if you have traction.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
What I have found that works well is -1/2° camber up front, -1/4° in rear and zero toe front and back. Not really aggressive, but plants the tires well. This would be for a drag car setting. The cars suspension will go positive as the suspension is unloaded, hence the initial negative camber. Zero toe is obviously for least amount of rolling resistance. What I don't do is set the Koni's too stiff in the back, as you need the suspension to rebound quickly. Your Koni's are adjustable in rebound and not compression unless they've been modified to do so. A drag car (and autocross applications) could really use a lot more rear spring in it, as they squat pretty hard at launch and shift points if you have traction.
Yes you're right, I had that reversed, it has adjustable rebound, not compression.
I was at a race-course driving school once, and the instructor mentioned about adjusting the rear Koni's to the softest setting and the fronts firmer.
He also said to lower the tire pressure in back and keep the standard pressure up front.
I think he said that helped with the back end getting more grip around the corners.
 
  • Like
Reactions: INSATANSSEAT
Years ago I read exactly what it needs to be set at to be zero camber and toe when the front end comes up, but I can't remember where it was posted. I should have put the info in my big TD folder. I am not concerned with tire wear. The car is a street car, but the furthest from a daily something could be. It hasn't touched the street since July of '17. And between July of '15 and '17 I only put 70 miles on it.
 
21 - 24 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top