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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re 1987 Shelby Dodge Charger.
TPS Actuating blade on the throttle shaft is at an angle at closed throttle. Throttle blade in contact with bore closed and idle adjustment screw completely backed out.

TPS reads 1.5 to 1.8 installed. Off the car, it reads .2v output.

The blade that turns the TPS is at an angle with closed throttle, low to the front of the car, high to the rear. When TPS is indexed on the blade, it needs to be turned to line up bolts. Output becomes over 1v.

It seems the blade should be horizontal. TPS would line up and remain below a volt.

Is there a way to set the TPS actuator blade to horizontal?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi. Thanks for the response. The idle adjustment screw is backed all the way out. It is not engaged to the throttle lever. On another thread here, someone recommended backing it out to set base idle. That's why its backed out. I understand .9v is at the high end for TPS voltage at closed throttle. Once I index the new one, then preload it (rotate housing so bolt holes line up) Its at 1.5v. The one I removed was at 1.87v when preloaded. I understand this voltage causes the computer to think the throttle is open. I get extra gas pumped through injectors and its all bad. If that blade is supposed to be an an angle, how is it TPS output is so high once the unit is installed?
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its a T-1. The new TPS is a NOS 5227 597. The one that was on the car for years was an aftermarket. I don't remember the brand but I think their part number was t-60 or similar. The car started stalling out at stops, then just started running crappy. Everything except tps output seems ok. So I got to indexing the new tps (another thread re output) and noticed output was .2 to .3v until I indexed it with bolt holes aligned, then output (orange/brown and blue wires back probed) was 1,5v. The one I removed was reading 1.8v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for the article. It does describe what is happening to include the code 24. Do you know if the blade that actuates the sensor is splined to the throttle shaft? I'm trying to research this so I don't open it up unnecessarily and risk another problem. The parts list shows a part number for the throttle body as an assembly, but does not break it down. The service manual is the same.

My question is mechanical. I see the throttle cable connects on the inner, closest to center of car, to the throttle shaft and is held on by a nut. I see the shaft with the butterfly running across the throttle body and it appears to be about 1/4 inch thick, diameter. I see the blade on the outboard side of the throttle body is much wider than the inner shaft and is held by a snap ring ( the kind that flies off and disappears when removed lol). Does that end cap piece that has the TPS blade on it come off the shaft or is it part of it as one piece? Meaning the throttle blade would be installed into the body from the outboard side? if it is two pieces, is it splined so perhaps it slipped and needs to be reset so the TPS reads properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
L Bodys. Thanks for the pics. Those look different than mine. The bolt holes for the AIS Motor are vertical like the tps holes on this unit. There is one small vacuum line off the bottom on those that mine does not have. Its an OEM unit here.
I see the tps blade is canted on yours as is mine relative to the top and bottom surfaces of the throttle body. That suggests the tps blade on this unit is in the correct position. Now, why are two TPS units reading high when installed? Ugh! I havent been able to drive this thing in some time. It sure would be nice to get it back on the road.

Thanks all for the help.
 
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