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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 91 daytona shelby with the 2.5 turbo and it is showinng an error code 24 which i believe is the throttle position sensor (my source is for a spirit/acclaim, 89-92) the car surges at mid throttle. when i unplug the sensor it seems to stop but i don't know if unpluging it will cause any problems and i wont be able to get the sensor for atleast a week. should i just leave it unpluged or will this cause problems?
 

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Your TPS probably has a dead spot.
Leaving it unplugged will put the car in failure and set a TPS voltage high code.
The controller will ignore the TPS and use other sensor values to try to determine throttle position.
You may have some stalling problems and idle problems.
I would leave it connected and drive like grandma until you can replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i bought a new tps and the light went off right away so i thought i was done. put some miles on and the same symptoms returned. i had another ground issue and my battery cables were shot so i redid all that and it was fine again. now its showing two 24 codes when i do the diagnostics. it goes 12, 24 24, 55 and the car dosen't surge like it did before it just falls flat on its face one or two times and then seems to drive somewhat normal. can anyone help me out here?

thanks
 

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There are 2 TPS codes both # 24,
TPS Voltage Low and TPS Voltage High.
Only a scanner will give you the code description.
Sounds like you have a terminal integrity problem.
It is common that the terminals will break/crack in the connector or right where the wire crimps to the terminal, remove them from the connector and check.
If that does not lead to anything with the TPS connector and Controller unplugged check each wire for opens, short to ground or short to each other.
Wiggling and moving the harness while your ohmmeter is connected may help to isolate an intermittant condition in the harness.
 

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also if you have a volt meter probe the tps wires and put the car in the on position and move the throttle up and down slowly and watch the voltage. if it is sparatic there may be a short or break somewhere. it should be a smooth up and down voltage run
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well when i tested it i pulled the main plug to the ecu off and tested the wires from the tps and they were all at 0 ohms. they also didnt seem to have any shorts. it was dark but i figured it wouldnt hurt to spray all the pins off with contact cleaner because all of the dielectric grease was hard and then i regreased them and started it up and the code was gone! so somthing may have worked.

thanks for the advice
 

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What kind of TPS did you buy? From mopar dealer? How much?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it was a mopar TPS and i bought it from the dealer because they could get it next day. from them it was $80. i found it on the advance auto website but it said it would take atleast two weeks to get. it was $60 or so.
 

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I bought mine at AutoZone, it was $30.00, in stock with a 1 year replacement warranty.
 

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I always check online, get the price and part # and then call my local store.
I have Autozone, Advanced and Napa all within 2 miles. So far Autozone has been the best for price and in stock items.
 

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How does the quality reliability of the autozone one compare to the MOPAR one? I know there was issues with using aftermarket 02 sensors on our car. Seems the MOPAR ones provide the most accurate readings. I wonder if that's the same issue for the TPS sensor?
 

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also if you have a volt meter probe the tps wires and put the car in the on position and move the throttle up and down slowly and watch the voltage. if it is sparatic there may be a short or break somewhere. it should be a smooth up and down voltage run
then
Diablo said:
well when i tested it i pulled the main plug to the ecu off and tested the wires from the tps and they were all at 0 ohms.
Moparbishi specified volt meter

it will be easier to troubleshoot the TPS if you probe the Signal wire, key on, while you move the throttle; the reading should vary between ~1V and ~5V

I recommend this book ; great resource and written for a TD'er :)
http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Modify-Chrysler-Injection-Powerpro/dp/0760303711
 

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I cannot honestly answer the question of reliability. It has been on the car since April with no problems and with the one year free replacement warranty I had nothing to lose.
I could have ordered a Mopar at work but the check engine light was on and I did not want to wait at least 1 day if it was in the local parts depot(Newark De.), if it was only in National it could have taken 3-5 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
:bang head my car has run great for about a month or so and now its back to throwing the 24 code!! when i took the muffler off it stopped all together. that was about 3 or so weeks ago. yesterday i plugged a vacuum leak and it started again. i put it back how it was and its still throwing the code. ive rechecked the wires and even pulled the ecu to see if it had some signs of failure but found nothing. the board is covered in that gel crap so i cant see the solder joints. could this be an ecu issue? something else?

thanks
diablo
 

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You are going to have to start from square one and diagnose the code.
First determine if the code is a high or low voltage code.
 

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If you do not have a scanner which will give you the description then you will use a voltmeter.
Testing the TPS circuit is fairly simple.
With the key on engine off backprobe the TPS connector signal and signal return wire while it is still connected to the TPS. That would be the BK/LB and OR/DB wires.
What is the voltage reading? above 3.50 volts? below .40 volts? If the reading is between .40 and .90 slowly sweep the TPS and watch the voltage, does it rise consistantly as the throttle is opened or did it drop off at any point? If it dropped off at any point during the sweep replace the TPS. If voltage is high/low......
Disconnect the TPS connector,with the key on/engine off with 1 lead of your voltmeter connected to a good ground probe the VT/WT wire with the other lead, does the meter read 5 volts? If no repair the 5 volt reference line, if yes....
Probe the VT/WT wire with 1 lead and the BK/LB wire with the other lead, does the meter read 5 volts? If no repair the signal return line, if yes.......
Check continuity on the signal line from the TPS to the SBEC cavity # 22, this is the OR/DB wire, if resistance reads over 5 ohms repair the signal return line....
If resistance is below 5 ohms connect 1 lead of the ohmmeter to a good ground and probe each end of the signal line with the other probe, does the ohmmeter read open on both ends? If no, repair signal line short to ground, if yes, replace the TPS.
Be aware that the terminals break/crack inside the TPS connector, and be sure the terminals are not spread open or pushed out.
 
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