[ntxdodge]

I have a 87 Daytona TII turbo. Car stalled and won't start, I've swapped out or replaced all the usual suspects HEP, TPS replaced with new one, AIS, Checked Coil, Fuel pressure is 55 LBS.

I got a new ECM power module and the car started and ran for about a mile until it stalled and left me stranded luckily closer to home this time.
Codes with old ECM power Module 12, 24 & 55
NEW ECM - Codes with new ECM power module 12, 24, 27 & 55. This ECM started and ran for about a mile and stalled then it would not start again. Code 12 battery disconnected, 24 TPS, 27 Fuel inject control problem and, 55 END.
What could cause the code 27 Fuel injector control problem. Can this be the fuel pump ?

Ron

 

[tryingbe]

Fault Codes - Mini-Mopar Resources

Got a spare PM?

 

[ntxdodge]

Fault Codes - Mini-Mopar Resources

Got a spare PM?

Yes, I installed a spare ECM and the car did not start. The ECM is on drivers side front fender by battery.. I went and bought a rebuilt ECM and It did start with the new rebuilt ECM and ran for a mile or so, then it died. The new code 27 showed up on the new rebuilt ECM. My guess is the new ECM may have updated software to give me the code 27.
Ron

 

[GLHS0815]

My 89 CSX gave me a fault 27 and when I shook.the fuel injector harness for #3 injector the engine would miss. Surfed and found out very common problem as the injector boots crack and connectors corrode. I ended up pulling off the harness, ordered new boots and connectors, and rewired all four injectors. Never a fault 27 since.

 

[ntxdodge]

My 89 CSX gave me a fault 27 and when I shook.the fuel injector harness for #3 injector the engine would miss. Surfed and foumd.out very common problem as the injector boots crack and connectors corrode. I ended up pulling off the harness, ordered new boots and connectors, and rewired all four injectors. Never a fault 27 since.

GLHS0815 Interesting, I was looking at the fuel injector boot on #3 earlier this evening and it was cracked. After 36 years of Texas heat a lot of rubber items are toasty. I'll look closer tomorrow when I have daylight.
Thanks, Ron .

 

[GLHS0815]

If your car is a turbo, the heat from the turbo dries out that #3 as it sits right under it.

 

[ntxdodge]

If your car is a turbo, the heat from the turbo dries out that #3 as it sits right under it.

Yes, it's a turbo II and #3 boot it is cracked. #2 Boot looks OK but is most likely hard as a rock. I did just cleaned back side of engine since I recently rebuilt my Power steering pump and wanted to clean off all the power steering oil on back of engine. 1987 TII Daytona Shelby Z has 36 years and 169K miles on it.
Ron.

 

[arieskcar]

Unplug Speed sensor

 

[NAJ]

1)If you have a no start condition you have to determine if the issue is Ignition, Fuel, Engine Controls or Engine Mechanical.
2)If you installed a "rebuilt" controller underhood (power module) and got fault codes that were not previously there and return after clearing them and cranking the engine 7-10 seconds then you have a faulty controller, I have seen this too many times with aftermarket controllers, especially if it is a "Cardone" remanufactured unit.
3)Your vehicle has 2 engine controllers, the Power Module underhood that does the actual work, and a Logic Module behind the R/S kick panel, the LM does all of the thinking and calculations.
4)Never just keep throwing parts at a problem, it may make things worse if you get a defective component or disturb something such as you have now, a logical diagnostic sequence is what needs to be performed instead of throwing the "parts dart".
5)Code 24 is a TPS code, either TPS voltage is low or high. If closed throttle TPS voltage is above 2.50 volts the engine controller assumes you opened the throttle to allow more air in so it assumes the engine is flooded and goes into "clear flood" mode and the injectors will not be pulsed until the voltage drops below 2.50 volts.
Using a digital voltmeter backprobe the TPS connector Signal Line(OR/DB wire) and the Signal Return Line (BK/LB wire), with the key on read the closed throttle voltage, it should be between .30 and .90 volts.
6)Code 27 can be caused by corroded injector connectors which is a common problem.
It may also be caused by other issues.
Have you used a Noid Light to check injector pulse on all cylinders?
The Noid Light will show 1 of 3 things while cranking the engine.
a)Flashes on and off, this is normal operation
b)Illuminates but does not flash on/off, this could be an injector control issue, the injector control wire is shorted to ground or a faulty engine controller.
c)The light does not illuminate, this indicates no power to the injectors.
Power is supplied to the injectors through the ASD Relay, the ASD Relay on your car is internal to the PM, which you recently replaced.
You can rent noid lights at AZ for free, leave a deposit which is fully returned to you when you return the tool.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-injector-signal-tester

No Start,No Spark 84-94 2.2/2.5L

*Before performing diagnostic tests check for any fault codes that may be present. If fault codes are present, clear them(battery disconnect) and crank the engine for 10 seconds and recheck codes. If codes are present repair them before continuing. *These tests can also be run on 91...

www.turbododge.com

 

[4 L-bodies]

Yes, it's a turbo II and #3 boot it is cracked. #2 Boot looks OK but is most likely hard as a rock. I did just cleaned back side of engine since I recently rebuilt my Power steering pump and wanted to clean off all the power steering oil on back of engine. 1987 TII Daytona Shelby Z has 36 years and 169K miles on it.
Ron.

Illegal Shelby valve cover on your 87 Shelby Z. We're gonna have to confiscate that (lol). I would think even if #3 isn't firing your engine would run, but sound like a turbo Subaru instead. Code 24 can definitely cause a no-start or terrible running condition. What long term TD owner doesn't have multiple LM's in their stash of spare parts? I've lost more than one LM while sitting overnight in the garage.
When living in TX, I lost of all things a distributor rotor on my 87 Shelby Z. It was carbon tracking into the shaft of the distributor instead of firing to the terminals in the cap. I had to look pretty carefully to see the carbon tracking deep inside the bottom of the rotor. Now when checking for spark, I'm checking coil wire and plug wires.
Good luck with the repair.

 

[james]

Lol "parts dart". Never heard that one before 👍

 

[GLHS0815]

think even if #3 isn't firing your engine would run, but sound like a turbo Subaru instead.

In my case, you are correct. It ran, but with a terrible miss.

 

[ntxdodge]

Update: I cleaned #3 fuel Injector connector on wire harness side and on the fuel injector, it did have some trash on both sets of contacts. Still no start, getting spark on spark plug test, but it seems to be low power. I did clean the cap and rotor and did not see any carbon on it. My neighbor has a fuel injector Noid checker and the fuel injectors were operating.

Checked codes again (new Power Module) and still have codes 12, 24, 27 & 55. Code 12 battery disconnected, 24 TPS, 27 Fuel inject control problem and, 55 END.

Tomorrow I'll probably do the parts dart thing and put a new cap and rotor on it. The cap and rotor have been on there for many years / miles. I'll take it as preventive maintenance

Ron
.

 

[james]

For shats and giggles see if it will start with wot, might take a few attempts. Years ago my first glht (that was t2 converted)would stall and not start. Only way it would start was wot starting. Can't remember detail too much, but turned out to be ais/tps related. Might not help but worth a try 🤷‍♂️

 

[ntxdodge]

For shats and giggles see if it will start with wot, might take a few attempts. Years ago my first glht (that was t2 converted)would stall and not start. Only way it would start was wot starting. Can't remember detail too much, but turned out to be ais/tps related. Might not help but worth a try 🤷‍♂️

WOT ?

 

[james]

Wide open throttle, foot to floor when starting

 

[ntxdodge]

Wide open throttle, foot to floor when starting

WOT - Wide Open throttle - That's how I got it started the other day. It ran at roughly 1500 RPM at first with the new Power Module, then slowly as the engine warmed up went to normal idle roughly 900RPM. I figured the new power module was getting familiar with the engine sensors with the high idle as the cold engine was warming up and settling at normal 900 RPM. I took it for a ride as I thought the new power module took care of problem and then it died about a mile away from the house. Same symptoms, cranks but would not start.
Ron

 

[ntxdodge]

Another update, replace distributor cap / rotor and spark plugs and spark plug wires. Found that #1 spark plug wire was dead (no continuity) causing the #1 cylinder spark plug not to fire. Had to blow out the gas with compress air on all cylinders. #1 cylinder had a lot of gas from from the spark plug wire being broken. The car is trying to start better but still dies. On further inspection I found the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail to be broken. I may have broke the 36 year old plastic vacuum line when I cleaned the #3 fuel injector wire harness. I did the repair by splicing a piece of hose on the plastic vacuum line. I thought this may be the problem but the car still tries to start for a few seconds and still dies.

I did the code check this evening after all this and found the the code 24 went away. Still have code 27 Fuel inject control problem, I may have to pull all the fuel injector connectors off the fuel injectors and clean them. Althoughr all the cylinders had gas fumes in them when I pulled tho old plugs. I believe the fuel injectors are working properly and I have 50+ pounds of pressure at the fuel rail.

 

[NAJ]

See post #9.

 

[arieskcar]

Another update, replace distributor cap / rotor and spark plugs and spark plug wires. Found that #1 spark plug wire was dead (no continuity) causing the #1 cylinder spark plug not to fire. Had to blow out the gas with compress air on all cylinders. #1 cylinder had a lot of gas from from the spark plug wire being broken. The car is trying to start better but still dies. On further inspection I found the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail to be broken. I may have broke the 36 year old plastic vacuum line when I cleaned the #3 fuel injector wire harness. I did the repair by splicing a piece of hose on the plastic vacuum line. I thought this may be the problem but the car still tries to start for a few seconds and still dies.

I did the code check this evening after all this and found the the code 24 went away. Still have code 27 Fuel inject control problem, I may have to pull all the fuel injector connectors off the fuel injectors and clean them. Althoughr all the cylinders had gas fumes in them when I pulled tho old plugs. I believe the fuel injectors are working properly and I have 50+ pounds of pressure at the fuel rail.

I would pull the rail keep it hooked up and verify you aren't dumping fuel or have a dead injector. Do this

If u run it rich too long this happens...