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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive got a TIII engine that came form a 92 daytona iroc that was burned to the ground. All the plastic was melted on top of the motor but not on the bottom end. The air charge sensor underneath the intake and the crank sensor were unharmed. The aluminum on top was not melted so i know the fire was under 1700 degrees.The oil was clean. The car was found in 2001 and probably didnt have many miles on it. The engine and 568 transmission has been sitting in my shop for about 7 years now and is now in a dodge omni. I took the motor out of storage and put it in the car for mock up of all the parts placement, grinding the places that needed it and fitting of parts (which is mostly done). The motor is coming back out to be checked. What condition will this motor be in? What steps should be taken to insure it wont grenade. Any thoughts on potential problems will be appreciated. It turns over at the crank and cam like it should. All seals, gaskets and the oil pump will be replaced . Balance shafts will come out. Am i looking at flat spots in the bearings, rust in the cylinders due to sitting, and what order does the head bolts need to come out? Let me know what you think.
 

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Personally I would take it all the way apart, Inspect/measure everything and hone the cyls, ect... Then go from there. I would get new bearings and rings definitely.
 
G

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I would have a machine shop hone it for you and then get some good moly rings. Have them polish and crank and turn if nessesary and get new bearings espsecially new I-shaft bearings. The headbolts de-torque as follows
10 6 2 3 7
9 5 1 4 8
 

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Personally I would take it all the way apart, Inspect/measure everything and hone the cyls, ect... Then go from there. I would get new bearings and rings definitely.
I would have a machine shop hone it for you and then get some good moly rings. Have them polish and crank and turn if nessesary and get new bearings espsecially new I-shaft bearings. The headbolts de-torque as follows
10 6 2 3 7
9 5 1 4 8
EXACTLY my thoughts. Also have them plane the block surface absolutely flat and smooth it to RA 18-25 so you can use a Cometic gasket. Have them also check flatness on the cylinder head too to be sure it's not warped badly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
what is RA 18-25. Where can i get i-shaft bearings and what brand of rings bearings and oil pump should i go with. What do you recommend for the transmission besides seals, turned flywheel, and a new throw out bearing. Thank you for the info
 

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what is RA 18-25. Where can i get i-shaft bearings and what brand of rings bearings and oil pump should i go with. What do you recommend for the transmission besides seals, turned flywheel, and a new throw out bearing. Thank you for the info
RA is roughness average. Its how smooth it has to be. It makes for better sealing and is pretty much a must when using the cometic. Oil pump, Melling is the choice for most, original mopar for some. May want to concider a clutch while its out, just to be safe. You can get all the parts you need at fwdperformance. Are you doing anything with the head? If it wont blow the budget, I would put some Ti retainers in.

Lotashelbys said:
I would have a machine shop hone it for you and then get some good moly rings. Have them polish and crank and turn if nessesary and get new bearings espsecially new I-shaft bearings. The headbolts de-torque as follows
10 6 2 3 7
9 5 1 4 8
^Everything he said x10 :D
I bet you didnt even need to get out the book for that did ya? :hail:
 
G

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^Everything he said x10 :D
I bet you didnt even need to get out the book for that did ya? :hail:
Um,of course not....

I would go with a Melling M118 pump like Cory said and get some Clevite 77 bearings and Dura-Bond I-shaft bearings. I have used both Sealed Power and Perfect Circle rings with no complaints from either brand. Just check out FWDP they will have everything needed to put the engine back together. Good luck:thumb:
 
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