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Discussion Starter #1
Allright, I replaced the timing belt on the old man’s 85 dodge 600 2.2T. Everything lined up on the sprockets I put it back together and it fired up first click. (Ran all little bad at idle). I thought I’d be smart and move the distributor a little bit until it ran better which it did. I thought everything was fine so I turned it off. I go to fire it back up an hour later and it’ll turn over but no start!!!! What the Hell did I do and how do I fix it 😂🤣
 

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you didnt unplug the coolant temp sensor when moving the distributor. unhook ect sensor, fire up, move distributor to 12 degrees. These cars are picky on ignition timing
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you didnt unplug the coolant temp sensor when moving the distributor. unhook ect sensor, fire up, move distributor to 12 degrees. These cars are picky on ignition timing
damn you’re right I did not. I just figured out i have no spark now either so I guess I have a bigger issue
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok great, it’s an 85 turbo.

ASD appears to be fine... do I need to actually check a wire on the fuel pump I assume hearing it run is good enough? Haha

It failed on the next step Checking the HEP circuit. I notice on one of the pick up coil plug ins the circular connectors are cracked... defintely not doing it any good but enough to sabotage it?!
404617B3-3A92-44B7-9C8C-8AAED2F45F26.jpeg


What else can I check out here? I’ll be looking through some posts.

Way before the timing belt went we’d have a code coming up constantly for something pick up coil related.

I guess I should mention while doing the timing belt I replaced all the plugs, plug wires+coil wire, rotor cap, pickup coil and the ignition coil.

Thanks!! 👍🏻👌🏻
 

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I assume by " failed" you mean there is no power at the + coil while cranking the engine.
Are any fault codes stored in memory.
Check/record codes, disconnect and reconnect the - battery cable.
Do not crank the engine, just recheck the codes, there should be a Code 11 stored.
Now crank the engine for 5-7 seconds and recheck codes.
Did the Code 11 go away?
If no the engine controller is not seeing a crank signal.
Post back with your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That is correct there is no power at the + coil while turning it over. I will do that.
 

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Just a wild guess from left field for what its worth... I don't suppose you've completely removed the distributor clamp and the distributor is now up a bit from its proper position and isn't in contact with the spinney bits below?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I hooked up the reader and didn’t get any codes, I got a big fat “no data”. I went through the sequence you described and had no “Code 11” stored.

I’ll admit.... I’ve never used these old a** readers before the closest to this car I could get it to read for was a 1989 2.2/2.5 TBI. It’s totally possible it’s operator error related haha. A mechanic friend of ours has pulled up codes on this car with this reader in the past though.

Anyway, those are my findings. 👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just a wild guess from left field for what its worth... I don't suppose you've completely removed the distributor clamp and the distributor is now up a bit from its proper position and isn't in contact with the spinney bits below?
Ahhhh it’s spinning with the distributor cap off when I crank it over so I think there’s good contact down under. 👌🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Jeez, with the key turned to the on position the Power Loss light doesn’t light up.... great start 👍🏻. I tried the key dance anyway and got nothing. I asked my father he said he saw the Power Loss light illuminated 2 weeks ago shortly before the timing belt went. -_- I’m not sure if it’s burned out or not.

Sigh...
 

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No data from the scanner and no power loss lamp.
Does the power loss lamp during the cluster bulb check when you initially turn the key on?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No data from the scanner and no power loss lamp.
Does the power loss lamp during the cluster bulb check when you initially turn the key on?

No, the power loss lamp does not check when you initially turn the key on. I can’t get it to illuminate what so ever or even blink. Possible it’s burned out?
 

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Yes you will have to verify the bulb is not burnt out first.
If it is not then something happened to a wire when you worked on the car, things like that happen on 30 year old vehicles.
I will not be home until Monday to look at wiring should replacing the bulb not work.
 

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Also, IIRC, one terminal at the diagnostic. connector is a power feed that also runs to the controller.
I think it is a DB wire, I can verify that tomorrow, but that may also feed the power loss lamp.
 

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The DB wire in the diagnostic connector is a power feed from the ignition switch to numerous devices and fuses.
According to the info the scanner does not use the DB power feed in the diagnostic connector, I would still verify it is there.
The LM controls the ground side of the power loss lamp.
If the bulb is good and the DB wire has power the next step in diagnosing the "No Data" issue would be to verify all controller power feeds and grounds.
POWER FEEDS POWER MODULE
PM 10 Pin Connector...
Cavity 2 - 12 volts from the ignition switch
Cavity 3 - 12 volts out to the LM
Cavity 4 - Constant Battery Voltage
PM 12 Pin Connector...
Cavity 6 - Battery Feed to LM
Cavity 12 - 8 Volt feed to LM
POWER FEEDS LOGIC MODULE
LM Red Connector
Cavities 7 and 8,12 volts from PM 10 pin connector cavity 3
Cavity 23, 8 volt supply from PM 12 pin connector cavity 12
LM Blue Connector
Cavities 2 and 22, 12 volts from PM 12 pin connector cavity 6.
CONTROLLER GROUND CIRCUITS
(Less than 5 ohms continuity to a good ground)
PM 10 Pin connector cavities 9 and 10
LM red connector cavities 24 and 25
LM blue connector cavities 7 and 8

The logic modules are notorious for corroded terminals.

85-87 PM 10 Pin.jpg 85-87 PM 12 Pin.jpg 85-87 LM Turbo Red.jpg 85-87 LM Turbo Blue.jpg ELECTRICAL- Diagnostic Connector.jpg
 
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