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Discussion Starter #1
I checked my timing and when I stabbed the distributor the rotor is pointing between number 1 and number 2 cylinder. I thought it had to be exactly pointed at number 1? The reason I am asking is because my car starts to overheat within a few minutes. I thought maybe it might be the timing but I checked everything else and this is the only thing that is a little off. The timing mark is on 0 and the camshaft sproket is lined up with the small hole at the top.
 

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What work was done to the vehicle prior to the overheating problem appearing?
Did you remove the hex plug in the cylinder head behind the thermostat housing when refilling the cooling system? That is the only way to purge all air from the system.
 

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What work was done to the vehicle prior to the overheating problem appearing?
Did you remove the hex plug in the cylinder head behind the thermostat housing when refilling the cooling system? That is the only way to purge all air from the system.

I didn't do that. But when I replaced the radiator a couple of years ago I didn't do that either and I never had any problems.
 

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The difference is that you are having problems now. I am assuming you would like to correct the problem since you opened a thread. You cannot bypass basic fill procedures just because you have not done them in the past,when you are having problems you have to check everything.
There is no bleed in the thermostat on our cars(if you put one in it goes to the top) and air will be trapped and cannot escape, that is why Chrysler put that plug there.
That plug is to be removed during draining so the block will drain and left out during filling to purge air from the system.
It is an extremly simple procedure that will take 10 minutes.
With the vehicle cold and engine off remove the plug and fill the radiator until the coolant level stays at the top of the opening,wait a few minutes and repeat until the coolant level stays even at the top of the opening,reinstall the plug, fill the rad and overflow.
If your problem still exists read the "Sticky" Overheating Version 2.0" in the "Help Section"
I posted Chryslers complete diagnostics for "Running Hot/Overheating"
 

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The difference is that you are having problems now. I am assuming you would like to correct the problem since you opened a thread. You cannot bypass basic fill procedures just because you have not done them in the past,when you are having problems you have to check everything.
There is no bleed in the thermostat on our cars(if you put one in it goes to the top) and air will be trapped and cannot escape, that is why Chrysler put that plug there.
That plug is to be removed during draining so the block will drain and left out during filling to purge air from the system.
It is an extremly simple procedure that will take 10 minutes.
With the vehicle cold and engine off remove the plug and fill the radiator until the coolant level stays at the top of the opening,wait a few minutes and repeat until the coolant level stays even at the top of the opening,reinstall the plug, fill the rad and overflow.
If your problem still exists read the "Sticky" Overheating Version 2.0" in the "Help Section"
I posted Chryslers complete diagnostics for "Running Hot/Overheating"


Ok I will do that. I know about the plug but I never had any problems so I never thought about it. However it is the right way to do it so that's what I will do. The reason I didn't take it out years ago is because it didn't want to come out and I didn't want to strip it out. I just tried it again and got the same results but I soaked it with liquid wrench and will try in a few.

So now that problem is sorta solved what does everybody think about my rotor pointing at cylinder 2? I know one of the reasons for it to overheat is because the timing is too retarded and I didn't know if pointing at 2 means the timing is too retarded.
 

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put a timing light on it
To time the engine remove the coolant sensor plug on the thermostat housing and set timing at 12 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
put a timing light on it
To time the engine remove the coolant sensor plug on the thermostat housing and set timing at 12 degrees.
I was kind of curious about that. At the dodge garage it shows how to install a timing belt and check distributor, cam timing but it doesn't saying anything about using a timing light. Do you still have to set this also?
 

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If the auxillary shaft was properly aligned with the crank when you set ignition timing to 12 deg btdc the distributor housing will run parallel to the block and with #1 cylinder at tdc on a compression stroke the rotor will point to #1.
If you just replaced the timing belt,with #1 at tdc and the mark on the flywheel at 0 the slot in the cam sprocket will be at 12o'clock with the centerline of the head and rotor will face #1 if the mark on the auxillary shaft was aligned with the mark on the crank.
After belt installation you need to rotate the engine 2 revolutions by hand and recheck the mark alignment. If using the tensioning weight tool the belt will tension itself when you rotate the engine by hand, then you need to tighten the tensioner,rotate the engine and recheck,then you need to set ignition timing with the engine at normal operating temp and you have to unplug the coolant temp sensor with the engine running to put the vehicle in failure(Check engine light will come on) and this brings the vehicle to base timing.
 
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