[LilIcecoldcanuc]

Hey guys,

So I need some help I plan on turbo charging my truck it's the 5.2l v8 and I have everything to do it but I need to know how much boost I can run with the stock ecu. And what can I possibly do to trick it and possibly add an extra injector hooked up to a pressure switch or something. I wanna get this all done within the next few weeks so all the help I can get is extremely helpful. Thanks guys!!

 

[NAJ]

IMO your idea will not work, you will be extremely rich or lean.
Just a couple of things off the top of my head...

Fuel pressure has to rise 1 PSI over static for every 1 lb of boost, there is no way to control that and injector pulse width/ignition timing without a turbo FPR, map sensor and controller and a wideband to tune it all.

Incase I am wrong I will contact some people that know alot more about this than me.

 

[LilIcecoldcanuc]

Okay great! Thanks Naj

Also if I'm extremely lean ill ad an extra injector hooked up to a pressure switch and If I'm rich ill add more boost ill be getting a wide and o2 sens

 

[NAJ]

I will let the engine build guys respond, to me it sounds like a Big Ka-Boom.

 

[4Daytonas]

You need to PM the Pope. He had a very suggestion for this in and earlier thread.

 

[The Pope]

first off what year is it?

Magnum trucks you can buy a flashed computer setup for boost already.

any of them will require a lot more fuel pump and a new fuel filter or running 2 filters side by side.

The old method is to run the MSD boost retard computer and a rise of rate gain adjustible fuel regulator. Not really needed with todays better computers.

You shouldn't run any boost without the right fuel and no more than 4 PSI without dealing with timing. A 318 with many rigs out there is running as much as 25 PSI. It is worth the trouble to get a computer in it and get it done right so you can make twice the power.

next post up the trucks info

 

[LilIcecoldcanuc]

1995 dodge Dakota 318 5.2 stock. Have 3" straight pipe, cold air, that's it what exactly did you need to know about the truck?

 

[The Pope]

start with this and 2 fuel filters
DW300 In-Tank Fuel Pump | Fuel Pumps | DeatschWerks | DeatschWerks.com

then these guys do custom computers like the TD vendors around here.
Welcome to B&G Performance "A World Leader in DCX & EURO Tuning Solutions" - Dodge/Jeep/Mini/Bentley Motors/AMG/Mercedes/Ferrari/Porsche PCM/TCM(Computer)Flashes

shorten the intake runners, take out the plenum divide and weld on the lower plate of the intake. Or buy the MP single plane intake.

Think about 42 lb injectors and 2 bar map, up to 15 PSI. Past 10 PSI the stock bottom end though is going to be walking that line with a turbo. Make sure you have a good intercooler, in a Dakota and no room a big water to air will fit best.

Injector size and map level is based off the engine mods and size of turbo. With a bigger turbo and porting the engine will need a lot bigger injector to push even 15 PSI. 15 PSI isn't 15 PSI for power. I've seen an SRT 4 put down 240 WHP at 15 PSI and then a built ported and cammed SRT 4 put down 407 at 15 PSI with the same 2.4L size engine.

The stock computer after it has been flashed for boost can support a lot of boost. But even mild boost and aiming for a daily driver you want the flashed computer. Making this work with a stock computer is for being cheap and running an off road drag truck. Not to mention you don't get the power you should. When these trucks were new blowers were popular with boost and caveman methods were used. And barely over 300 WHP was normal. Doesn't make the work worth it.

A wideband sensor and a EGT gauge and a scanner are all needed too BTW to watch the engine.

Before heads or any huge turbos or anything like that I'd build a forged bottom end with a girdle and 2" of block filler at the bottom of the cylinders. Then using ARP studs everywhere add a Cometic MLS head gasket set. Even stock top end flow and cam is going to allow 25 PSI of boost tuned right, so you need the bottom end to hold it.

 

[LilIcecoldcanuc]

Damn I heard the bottom ends in the 318's were able to handle 25 psi hmm guess I got some money to spend haha. Ill be running only 6psi of boost for now. It should be safe then right?

 

[The Pope]

sure a -3 318 has forged floating rods, some forged aluminum pistons, a stronger block with HD deck and a forged and heat treated crank stronger than an 340 crank. the -3, many of them were tough to the extent there is no harmonic balancer on them....

What you have is a cast crank, cast pressed pin rod, LW cast piston 318. Much of the older stuff interchanges but it isn't the same exact engine. A local friend is using an old -3 of mine with magnum heads and the AMC lifters to oil the rockers, building one cheap for an older car.

So yeah, you go out to my 68 D500 out side here and plop on FI and a good turbo and it'll push 25 PSI. But the Dakota isn't going to do it. Luckily the stuff is dirt cheap though. H beam rods are $300 and the crank is $600 and pistons are $450. Get a block machined and assemble it yourself and your about $2000 in a bottom end.

run a computer made for it, 42 lb injectors and a 2 bar map. The engine could run forever and even pull a trailer with 6 PSI

 

[LilIcecoldcanuc]

Damn well ill have to do a quick swap with my dad he has a 74 318 in his dart hips fully he won't miss it haha. But $2000 is not bad ill definitely have to consider that before I blow up or melt anything haha

 

[The Pope]

you'd have to look, I believe like with the 340 the 318 went cast in 73'

 

[Gringo Bandido]

I believe Pope's right considering the 318 dropped to 150hp in 1973

 

[LilIcecoldcanuc]

Damn damn damn damn. Ok guess I'm gonna have invest in some bottom end work then.

 

[m880]

No sbm used cast rods ever. In fact after 72 the 318-340-360 used the same rods. And though cast,magnum cranks are nodular iron which is almost as strong as cast steel cranks. The weak link is the pistons but 6 psi should be no problem. They are hyperutectic pistons,increase the top ring gap for boost. Arp main studs if more than 6-8 psi.