Turbo Dodge Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't find my answer with a search, now others can find this thread with answers. I have a 87 csx. What hotside manifold flange will I have? Also, where is the rev limiter set at for my 87 csx? It revs to the cel and buzzes hard and scares me. Thanks. Plans are to have a turbo that makes boost to redline efficiently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
My cel only came on when I revved it up real high. I have no tach so no telling when it came on. I'm looking to making peak power to redline, I want to utilize the entire rev range when I build it a little.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,035 Posts
You'll have what they call a Chrysler flange. What are your power goals?
yup, chrysler specific pattern ..
it's larger - so perhaps stronger? - than the standard T3.

but yur 87 TII garrett is not really the limiting factor for performance in an otherwise stock(ish) combo.

a 'larger' turbo on an otherwise stock(ish) motor will not necessarily make more power,
even if it does make a bit more,
you'll also have MORE turbo lag...

so, what are your goals ? then we figger how to get there ,.,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Goals are 300whp if my trans and motor can take it. That should give me pretty good roll power. All power issues can be solved with boost. Cold boost. I've seen comparisons of the air research t03 to newer tech visually, id like to update and have a turbo that doesn't run out before redline. I don't mind lag, I'll grab a gear, if I didn't want lag I'll drive my supercharged jag. Turbos that peak later make less tq, putting less stress on everything and traction, that's why I want a later peak. Thank you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,035 Posts
regardless of what turbo you run, stock fuel system and ECM will only support ~14 psi...

if you want more than that you have to provide enough fuel e.g. a "3-bar" calibration and supporting fuel system mods, including perhaps 'oversize' injectors..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I have been referred to lots of info pages and vendors and have a good idea of what my goal is. I'm making 14 psi right now. My grandpa claims it has 80 lb/hr injectors. I don't believe him, next step is to install my wideband. Thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,353 Posts
I have been referred to lots of info pages and vendors and have a good idea of what my goal is. I'm making 14 psi right now. My grandpa claims it has 80 lb/hr injectors. I don't believe him, next step is to install my wideband. Thanks.
Prob 27 or 33lb inj's in there right now. I run 95's @ 40psi boost and around 600WHP ;)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,173 Posts
Prob 27 or 33lb inj's in there right now. I run 95's @ 40psi boost and around 600WHP ;)
They should be 33s if its a TII setup (which it should be)

I was about to comment on the 80 lb/hr injectors as well. 850 CC injectors support over 400 WHP on pump. Hard pressed to find those on a stock car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
I couldn't find my answer with a search, now others can find this thread with answers. I have a 87 csx. What hotside manifold flange will I have? Also, where is the rev limiter set at for my 87 csx? It revs to the cel and buzzes hard and scares me. Thanks. Plans are to have a turbo that makes boost to redline efficiently.
If I recall correctly, 5 speed cards did not have a rev limiter set from the factory, only the automatic cars. Or maybe that was governors...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
reving this car will make no difference.
once you are over 4,500 stock you arent making any more power.

Please do some research before you start trying to " utilize the entire rev range"..
the cylinder head and manifolds and turbo and cam shaft wont make power by "revving" it or having a higher peak RPM.

untill you intend to change all those components to ulitize a higher RPM power range then you should avoid anything over 5,550 as it will only hasten the destruction and part out of your vehicle.

and your next post will be about it blown up.
followed by a post 6 months later of you parting it out..
you have been warned.
 

·
Legendary Driver
Joined
·
10,931 Posts
Don't agree totally with that. My 2.5 with a stock head, intake manifold liked 5700-6000 shifts with a ported exhaust manny, S60 turbo, 3" exhaust and a cummins IC. That motor was kinda wierd though. The 2.2 shortblock that was under it liked 5200rpm shifts to get the best 1/4 mile time. I put a 2.5 under it, changed nothing and the car wanted 5700rpms. Going to the cummins allowed me to go to 6k though it would run the same time if I shifted between that and 5700.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,714 Posts
grey shelby behind the blue t-z below was my 2.5 TII car
went pretty good

power definitely did not drop off like a 2-2

I can't say it continued to make MORE power as the revs went up but it kept on pulling where mt 2-2's usually ran outta wind

oh and .. I ran that as I'd bought it for 2 1/2 years - with the original 2.2 TII LM
- before it dropped the #3 exhaust valve through the piston

no signs of detonation in any of the other three cylinders either

started life as an over the counter NEW '90 mopar 2.5T replacement engine - not a rebuild

that was the car I busted the shift fork to rod bolt in so yep I beat it up pretty hard

the tooth to tooth click I got power shifting it sounded like a shotgun going off - no kidding
2nd and 3rd..no engine rpm flail , nothin , just a tiny bit of pressure on the clutch pedal
- just enough to let me rip it outta gear and stuff it into the next
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,173 Posts
The only real way you'll be able to determine the best time to shift is through driving it all the time (seat time, LOTS of it) or by dyno plotting it. Dyno plotting will show you exactly were power falls off and what is/isn't useful to do.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top