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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Question #1... do all Daytonas with the "power bulge" hoods have turbos?

Question #2... Is there someone on this board with a blue Daytona that lives in the Toledo Ohio area?

If so, you officially met "TRRBOJEEP" this morning. ;) Have a nice day. :cool:

This guys car looked just like this from my rear view mirror. (on offence to all the Daytona drivers out there)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol.... sorry to use your pic.
No motor swap for me, I'm running the 2.5L "AMC" motor that came in my Wrangler. Iron head 8 valve push rod setup. As for the list of mods, they're about as long as the dead sea scrolls! lol

Crankshaft – (factory) polished, chamfered, & balanced
Camshaft – (factory)
Connecting Rods – Eagle H-beam forged (#CRS-6150-A3D)
Pistons – Ross forged (.030 oversize) 8.2:1 compression (Job Card #78133)
Head – 5 angle valve job with unshrouded valve relief’s, fully bowl ported &
blended, radiused valve guides and polished exhaust and
combustion chambers. O-ringed, stud bosses milled .250”
Head Studs - ARP
Valves – oversize, Stainless Steel 1.960” Intake / 1.560” Exhaust
Valve Springs – Competition Cams (525 series, dual spring)
Pushrods – Competition Cams (magnum series #7662-8)
Rocker Arms – Harland Sharp aluminum full roller (1.6:1 ratio #S4004)
Rocker Arm Studs – Competition Cams (#4542-8)
Guide plates – Competition Cams (#4842-4)
Oil Pump – Melling
Throttle Body – 52mm
Air Filter – K&N high flow cone (TurboCity)
Intake Manifold – extrude honed
Exhaust Manifold – ported & polished
Fuel Injectors – Accel 44lb/hr (#AC-15044)
Alternator – 150 amp
Thermostat – Roboshaw 180 deg.
Spark Plugs – Autolite (dual platinum)
Plug Wires – Jacolbs Electronics
Turbocharger – Garrett T03 60 trim (off of 1985 Merkur XR4Ti)
Rebuilt by TurboCity, 18psi boost, 3” down pipe
BOV - 1st gen Talon/Ecl.
Intercooler – air/air Volvo front mount unit
Fuel pump – Walbro (255lph in tank)
Fuel Regulator - Vortech Super FMU (2:1 ramp up)
Gages – Autometer
Electric Fan – Flex-a-lite
Clutch – Centerforce (dual friction)
Exhaust – Custom made (3” pipe) (Moroso spiral core muffler)(no converter)
Transmission – Stock AX5 w/ short throw shifter
Transfer Case – Stock NP231
Rear Diff. – Dana 35 w/ factory trac-lock (4.10 gears)
Front Diff. – Dana 30 w/ Detroit tru-trac limited slip
Alcohol injection - 100psi Shure Flow pump, 15gal/hr nozzle, set to come on @ 14psi.

Not your typical garden variety Wrangler. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
87DANCEonYOU said:
Have you ran that thing yet???? TRRBOJEEP
Not officially!
It went 14.8 @ 98mph on a friends G-tech meter. That was at 14psi with full exhaust, & before I installed the alky system. :)
 

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TRRBOJEEP said:
Not officially!
It went 14.8 @ 98mph on a friends G-tech meter. That was at 14psi with full exhaust, & before I installed the alky system. :)

well if the speed is right .."98" that should get you to around 13.8 . In my sundance at 15 psi it ran a 13.8 @ 99 GOOD LUCK MAN :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll be the first to admit when it comes to slam shifting and launching from a dead stop, I'm not the driver of choice! lol
The Jeep is probably knocking on 13's, if it had a driver that was. :bash:
It pulls out strong on the e-way in 4th & 5th gears though. :cool:
 

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When you're at the stoplight, do you race with the 4WD engaged?

Hehe, I bet you're 0-60 times are good! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Leafy said:
When you're at the stoplight, do you race with the 4WD engaged?

Hehe, I bet you're 0-60 times are good! :thumb:
That would be cheatin! ;)

Actually, I use 4WD (all wheel drive) when it's raining. (wet out)
In a good downpour it's practically unbeatable. lol

It will leave a C5 Vette like a Geo Metro in the rain! I've chapped quite a few drivers that way. :)
 

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TRRBOJEEP said:
I'll be the first to admit when it comes to slam shifting and launching from a dead stop, I'm not the driver of choice! lol
The Jeep is probably knocking on 13's, if it had a driver that was. :bash:
It pulls out strong on the e-way in 4th & 5th gears though. :cool:
'


I hear ya.. my launches are downright horrible. :(
 

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TRRBOJEEP said:
I use 4WD (all wheel drive) when it's raining. (wet out).
If I remeber correctly, the transfer cases aren't differentiated. Unless it's raining oil, I always thought this was an easy way to lock up your drivetrain.. ??

Maybe I'm wrong.. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
aerosmith145 said:
If I remeber correctly, the transfer cases aren't differentiated. Unless it's raining oil, I always thought this was an easy way to lock up your drivetrain.. ??

Maybe I'm wrong.. :D
Actually you're right. When 4WD is engaged, both front & rear axles are locked together. There is very little risk of damaging anything though, unless you had tires of different sizes on each axle, or you're turning a lot of corners.

Wet roads, and making sure you're driving in a strait line is the ticket for using 4WD on the pavement. :)
 

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TRRBOJEEP said:
There is very little risk of damaging anything though, unless you had tires of different sizes on each axle, or you're turning a lot of corners.
But think about it this way -

If you have 29" tires, front and rear, each has a circumference of 91.06". Front tires are in great shape.

If the rear tires have 1/8" of wear (which I'm sure they have atleast that :)), that brings their circumfrence down to 90.275".

Hang with me... ;)

The front tires will turn 695 times in one mile.

While the rears will turn 702 times.

This would place the tires 53 feet apart if they were rolled by hand! :D

I would figure up the force differential on the T-case chain, but have a headache already lol Anyways, the force is pretty strong ;) Not to mention the backwards force on the front ring and pinion - since the tire's turning faster than it should.

Now, all that slack is taken up either in your transfer case or your tires. If the pavement is grippy enough, and your hauling a couple friends, that little aluminum, chain-driven NP231 may give up it's guts!

Don't mean to be a pest, just don't want you to hurt your jeep :thumb:
 
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