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My 91 N/A CB was rebuilt for TD. The N/A block wasnt drilled for turbo oil return hose... Is there simpler option rather than drilling the block? THX!
 

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you could install an A?N bulkhead passthrough fitting in the back of the oil pan and connect to that
BUT you also need a guard inside the pan to keep the inside clear of the oil in the pan trying to flow up the tube during acceleration without obstructing flow from the turbo out of the tube
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you could install an A?N bulkhead passthrough fitting in the back of the oil pan and connect to that
BUT you also need a guard inside the pan to keep the inside clear of the oil in the pan trying to flow up the tube during acceleration without obstructing flow from the turbo out of the tube
THX for responding... what is A?N ? Is it a brand? maybe you know where i can see pics of this set up? I def dont wanna screw it up lol. Can i use silicone hose? wonder if they make clear hose so i can watch for flow. clogging etc...
 

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THX for responding... what is A?N ? Is it a brand? maybe you know where i can see pics of this set up? I def dont wanna screw it up lol. Can i use silicone hose? wonder if they make clear hose so i can watch for flow. clogging etc...
Is there a guard i can buy or do i have to make one? I assume you mean this guard should shield the pan oil somewhat while allowing turbo return oil to drain? seems like the bulkhead should be as high up on back of pan as possible?
 

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AN fittings are called that because that stands for Army/Navy. They are similar to 45 flare fittings you use in your home plumbing, but instead of 45° angle, they use a 37° angle. Typically made from aluminum for weight reduction, but they're also available in mild steel and stainless.
You just need to be careful where you decide to drill the hole back into the oil pan. Typically drilled above the oil level of a running engine. If welding in a steel or stainless fitting, it gives you a bit more leeway vs. using a bolt-in bulkhead fitting. If using a bolt-in bulkhead connector, be aware you need plenty of space for the fitting and the nut holding the bulkhead connector to clear the swinging connecting rods and crankshaft counterweights inside the oil pan. Also a lesser consideration is where the return oil is going inside the pan. In a performance application you wouldn't want that oil spraying into the crankshaft as this would add to windage problems inside the pan. A very small piece of sheetmetal tack welded to the pan is enough to deflect this away from the spinning crankshaft. This sheet metal tab must also clear the rotating assembly.
Yes, use silicone 5/8" (not 3/4") reinforced hose. I wouldn't use clear hose, it won't hold up for the long haul. If the engine isn't installed yet, it may be easier to drill the block and put a 1/2" NPT fitting in the block rather than drill a hard to find 43/64th drill bit that the factory uses. Below see 1/2" NPT thread drilled in NA block, and stainless bulkhead fitting welded into pan (two different applications). IMG_9963.JPG IMG_9966.JPG
 

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some OE installs (Mitsu/DSM) use a drainback into the side of the oil pan ;
would be MUCH easier to add..
looks like this:
 

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some OE installs (Mitsu/DSM) use a drainback into the side of the oil pan ;
would be MUCH easier to add..
looks like this:
Ooops i ordered this a few hours ago on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KKHHZGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
what do you think?
 

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it may be easier to drill the block and put a 1/2" NPT fitting in the block rather than drill a hard to find 43/64th drill bit that the factory uses.
Ah, perfect timing Todd, I am getting close to converting a NA block to Turbo. I like the 1/2NPT fitting idea.
 

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Well that is awfully cheap, can't beat that price. Can't be US made fittings for that price. Two swivel fittings from Earls, Russell, Aeroquip, etc. would be over $40. That is okay though, it's just a drain line. Every one I've done I ended up using 2) full flow 90's not two 45. remember you need to go around the axle shaft or extension housing. Don't see how 45's are going to get you where you need to go.
 

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Well that is awfully cheap, can't beat that price. Can't be US made fittings for that price. Two swivel fittings from Earls, Russell, Aeroquip, etc. would be over $40. That is okay though, it's just a drain line. Every one I've done I ended up using 2) full flow 90's not two 45. remember you need to go around the axle shaft or extension housing. Don't see how 45's are going to get you where you need to go.
oh guess ill order (2) 90's too. You think thats enough hose too? i have time before the shop dives in.... THX!
 
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