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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was working on my 85 Shelby Charger and tried to start it. I turned the key and got a couple of clicks on a sillinoid under the hood. Also I have power to my accessories and a low oil light. I then swapped a computer out of my parts car and tried again. This time I had a check engine light with the rest of the clicks under hood. The cooling fan kicked on for just a second??? I wrote down the codes 11,12,55. The car has not ran since 1992. When the key is turned, the ignition and fuel system do not come on. I would be happy if I could just get the motor to turn over. Thanks.
 

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Start off with the basics.

Do you have a new battery, and clean connections to the starter and battery? Did you check for blown fuses? Are you getting power to the starter?

Here's your codes:

11- Distributer Signal Circuit- No Distributer Reference During Cranking
12- Battery Feed To Computer Loss- Battery disconnected in the last 30-100 starts
55- Means the end of codes :)

Did you clear the codes before you switched the ECU, because my guess is that they were still from the parts car. Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to clear them out and try again.
 

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Actually, code 11 is probably just because the engine isn't cranking over. (Computer "thinks" that the engine should be turning over because the ignition switch is on start, but it's not receiving a signal from the hall effect because nothing is actually happening.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked the fuses and swapped out the starter relay and still nothing. Anyone have trouble with the ignition switch thats on the steering column? Also, how would the ignition act if the hall effect pick up was bad? I'll look at the fuseable links next. What does the logic computer behind the kick panel control? Would this kill all power to the fuel and ignition system? Thanks fo any help.
 

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The logic module controls everything related to fuel & spark. The engine would turn over with a bad HEP. The metal ignition switches in Shelby Chargers are pretty reliable. Is the clicking you hear under the hood a relay sound (soft clicking) or more like the starter solenoid (single loud clunk)? If it is a single loud clunk, have someone turn the key to the start position and hold it there a few times while you *lightly* tap on the solenoid (the rounded "bubble" piggy back on the starter). If it turns over then, you've found the problem. It may still act up, but freeing it up once might make the problem go away. Does it constantly click or just once when you turn the switch over? A couple soft clicks when you turn the switch on are normal, but a constant clicking would likely be low voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The click heard underhood is a soft click. It is coming from the small silver box "I believe it is the starter relay." I will change out the logic computer to see if it helps prime the fuel system. Also, Is there an easy way to remove the starter?
 

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The engine will turn over with a bad LM. The starter is a pain on the older cars. especially that bolt with the nut. :bang head Fuel system priming is performed by the power module. Check for a bad connection on the starter before you pull it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE: Problem solved. My ignition problem was caused by the switch on the steering column. I was stunned when the motor turned over for the first time since 1992. I also have spark!!! And oil pressure!!! And current to the broken fuel pump. Thanks for the help.... One more question, ''unrelated", I heard that the silver paint on my 85 Shelby Charger was a rare option?
 

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If it's mostly silver with blue center stripe it's fairly rare. there's one listed from a couple months ago in Cars for sale section.
 
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