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Usable horsepower turbo?

1571 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  overboostperformance
It seems like most peoples idea of a good turbo is a big turbo.
I'm researching possible upgrades for a nearly stock engine and I want a turbo capable of outflowing the stock T03 but I don't want to deal with major lag issues like I've seen people do before.
The T-2 engine in my Daytona has more torque than horsepower and I not only like it, I would like to keep it like that after the turbo upgrade.

The engine would be a mostly stock T-2 with polished running chambers, conicals/PTs, 2-piece intake, and less restrictive exhaust (2.5 or 3)

I want to have usable power for running around town, not looking to drag.
Just want to be able to pass the guy in the new Camaro/Mustang on the freeway.
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You basically want the cake and enjoy it's flavor ? , I'm thinking a t-3 turbine mated to a high flow 60 or 70 trim compressor would be a nice trade off for the spool time. unless you want ball bearings which only changes it marginally. I'm using a holset hx-35 and am impressed by it's response , i have also tried the hx-30 with some very nice success. but those were both on a 16v motor.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html

the stock turbo can push 250+ WHP. Buy import standards it is already a big turbo. I would do the stock T2 with 2.5" exhaust and have the stock turbo rebuilt as a S60 and run the 20 PSI. Go 3 bar, that is what your looking for. As soon as you get a bigger turbo the car will lag more without porting. Once you port the thing you need a bigger turbo to soften the boost hit. Try 20 PSI first, it isn't slow lol
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html

the stock turbo can push 250+ WHP. Buy import standards it is already a big turbo. I would do the stock T2 with 2.5" exhaust and have the stock turbo rebuilt as a S60 and run the 20 PSI. Go 3 bar, that is what your looking for. As soon as you get a bigger turbo the car will lag more without porting. Once you port the thing you need a bigger turbo to soften the boost hit. Try 20 PSI first, it isn't slow lol
I was considering a hybrid of the stock turbo.
So you would recommend stock compressor/turbine housings but with the "S60" compressor wheel?
I guess the reason I was looking for a whole new turbo was to cut down time when installing it.
Upgrading the wheel would require balancing by a professional.
Other than that I actually like the idea of upgrading my turbo.
I was considering a hybrid of the stock turbo.
So you would recommend stock compressor/turbine housings but with the "S60" compressor wheel?
I guess the reason I was looking for a whole new turbo was to cut down time when installing it.
Upgrading the wheel would require balancing by a professional.
Other than that I actually like the idea of upgrading my turbo.
you'll need to send in the turbo to fwdperformance and have it upgraded. It is easier than a hybrid as it'll still be a bolt on. hybrids don't fit too hot on a 2.2. your power goals don't require a hybrid either.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html

the stock turbo can push 250+ WHP. Buy import standards it is already a big turbo. I would do the stock T2 with 2.5" exhaust and have the stock turbo rebuilt as a S60 and run the 20 PSI. Go 3 bar, that is what your looking for. As soon as you get a bigger turbo the car will lag more without porting. Once you port the thing you need a bigger turbo to soften the boost hit. Try 20 PSI first, it isn't slow lol
Out of curiosity, would you still use the .48 exh housing or go to the .63?
I've run both the .48 and .63 - I recently had Chris rebuild one of my stock T03's with the quick spool option and I went to his 3" SV and 3" exhaust. Running only 12.5 PSI, my car is almost useless in first and second now. At 18 PSI it was a joke. Wish I had kept my .63 housing to give the tires a little better chance to hook. I'm back on a stock SMEC w/804's and boost still hits a little too hard in first and second.

It's a DD, not a racer, but I still need to improve my suspension to eliminate some of the weight transfer and I'll need better tires; but if I had it to do all over, I'd go with something along the lines of an S60. Good trade between power, economy and driveability. Less peak boost - computer controlled - in first and second would be nice too.

I'll be doing some top end work this year, and the current turbo will likely be replaced with something larger. Once you make some sensible changes to these cars, lag really isn't an issue.
a lot of it though is flow related, and cost. A 2.5" setup is cheap and there isn't much HP difference at the below 300 HP range, mostly torque. If your running the cheaper 2.5" and a .48 it isn't as bad on wheel spin and you have near instant boost. With the 3" exhaust you spool a lot harder and make more torque, blasting the tires.

So .63 has to do with how far your going, if you have any porting and big exhaust the .48 makes too much wheel spin. However it is a riot of fun though lol. Computer controled your wheel spin isn't as bad as with a MBC. The MBC will give full boost at half throttle with a .48 and lower RPMs. Which also means if you run an auto on the street you'll want the .48.

Still though based off the OPs post a stock T3 and 2.5" exhaust may be the plan. My brothers CSX doesn't spool any faster with a stage 5 than a stage 2 MP computer. But stopping spool at 18-20 PSI is a lot different than 13 PSI lol. Even when spooling slower if you don't have the car ready for the power the tires are going to spin, in my brothers CSX half way through third.
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i have a customer that is running a nice combo. stage 3 turbine in a .48 housing with a t4 .50 trim in a pinched housing. he came to me and wanted mitsu like spool with better performance. so i rebuilt his lower end mild port with major quench area work stock valves and touch up on the 2 piece. he has his cake and eats it too. i had 2 of these turbos built at the same time and both customers LOVED them . the second customer has moved to 16v so he ditched it for a holset. the one still running it runs 18-20 psi with no issues(89waredaytona) and the one that ditched used to run 18-26 psi (88shadowproject)(much more port work on the head !!!!!!) this is a great for running road course/street use.

one was on a 2.2 (heavy port work) and the other on a 2.5 (clean up) 3" exhaust on both medium sized front mounts.


Norm
i have a customer that is running a nice combo. stage 3 turbine in a .48 housing with a t4 .50 trim in a pinched housing. he came to me and wanted mitsu like spool with better performance. so i rebuilt his lower end mild port with major quench area work stock valves and touch up on the 2 piece. he has his cake and eats it too. i had 2 of these turbos built at the same time and both customers LOVED them . the second customer has moved to 16v so he ditched it for a holset. the one still running it runs 18-20 psi with no issues(89waredaytona) and the one that ditched used to run 18-26 psi (88shadowproject)(much more port work on the head !!!!!!) this is a great for running road course/street use.

one was on a 2.2 (heavy port work) and the other on a 2.5 (clean up) 3" exhaust on both medium sized front mounts.


Norm
This sounds like what I'm looking for. What's a pinched housing?
i have a customer that is running a nice combo. stage 3 turbine in a .48 housing with a t4 .50 trim in a pinched housing. he came to me and wanted mitsu like spool with better performance. so i rebuilt his lower end mild port with major quench area work stock valves and touch up on the 2 piece. he has his cake and eats it too. i had 2 of these turbos built at the same time and both customers LOVED them . the second customer has moved to 16v so he ditched it for a holset. the one still running it runs 18-20 psi with no issues(89waredaytona) and the one that ditched used to run 18-26 psi (88shadowproject)(much more port work on the head !!!!!!) this is a great for running road course/street use.

one was on a 2.2 (heavy port work) and the other on a 2.5 (clean up) 3" exhaust on both medium sized front mounts.


Norm
most really put the idea down about the stage 2 in a .48 housing. I have wondered about the balance of leverage between the wheels. Adding a large diameter compressor wheel and a small diameter turbine. A .48 should send high velocity exhaust to the tips of a stage 3 wheel with more leverage to turn the compressor. But it is said by those that sell them that you can't get enough exhaust through a .48 to feed the stage 3 wheel.

Today the F1 wheels are wider at the inducer, so they get more air per diameter than before. I have always wondered about having more inducer for more leverage for spool. First time some one mentioned a positive look at it.
pope

coming from the roadrace community you should see what those guys are running behind v8 with tt. it boogles the mind yes they have ***LOADS of money but they are running turbines what basically equal td04 with LARGE A** comps. the t3/t4 with stage 3 wheel spools effortlessly almost no transition from off boost to on boost a very nice dd. i love the sledgehammer effect but some like smooth hahahaha. i have driven both cars and they are ALMOST vnt like. the 2.5 pulls right through to 6500 seat of the pants. hopefully in this winter i can get a few to the dyno. the 2.2 at 18-20 would hang out a 350hp (dyno'ed ) wrx (i know pig heavy car vs. a shadow ) .
This sounds like what I'm looking for. What's a pinched housing?
stock garret t2 housing which if you choose this route i have a pre machined housing and .48 turbine section here for sale al you need to buy is the chra with the correct wheels.

Norm
Pope- Who makes an F1 wheel?
^ correct problem is when you need to service parts for said wheel the only one who has them (last i knew) is ......turbonetics. ben dover here .....again last i knew.

Norm
Overboost- What's your alternative to an upgraded compressor wheel that won't eff me over in price.
Anything on eBay worth looking at?
ebay turbos are hit or miss. they are based off garretts so technically you should be able to use garrett parts to rebuild but who knows. a center section should be pretty inexpensive i use gpop shop for all my builds and have had nothing but success with their products and they are very helpful. pm me we can talk

Norm
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