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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 91 Lebaron GTC and I'm just really tired of my vacuum line situation...I dont like the fact that my vacuum lines are so brittle and ugly.

My main question is has someone ever tucked the vacuum lines or put them into a wwire loom? Any pics would be fantastic...I hate my engine bay looking like s***. I've seen a post with a full wire (and vacuum, I believe) tuck, but I'm not planning on going all out. I just want it to be a little cleaner.

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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Mine are wrapped individually in wire loom and run on the backside of the valve cover but it is still a lot of vacuum line and cannot be tucked where it cannot be seen.
I am fine with mine, neat as I can get it and functional.

Somebody said they can get hardline which will be much smaller and easier to hide but I cannot remember who or the thread.

 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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You can also delete the vacuum block and drill and tap your intake manifold. I'm currently working on doing this to another intake manifold but I am relocating the vacuum fittings to the back side of the manifold so it helps hide the vacuum lines. Note that this is still a work in progress!

Dennis
 

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you can also clean it up by running whats needed. i run the MAP, FRP, BOV, MBC and boost gauge and you cant even see any of the lines. fuel line was used and tied in to make it look like they were not even there

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the late reply.

Those ideas look/sound great though!!! I really like the idea of putting the vacuum lines inside of wire looms and fuel line so that they can be put in the wire separators. And keep me informed of how that project works out Dennis. And I love your valve cover, by the way!

Kevin
 

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Here's mine.




1 short line to the FPR, 1 to the boost gauge, and 1 to the Baro/MAP. Boost control is via a grainger ran off the 2nd small brake booster nipple that come on 90+ T1 cars and 3.3 V6's. So it's hidden and there is just a 90 degree factory connector, the grainger and then a factory straight connector onto the WG acutator. Oh and then 2 lines off the TB nipple to run the dual Talon BOV's

You can get factory size like in polyurethane or replace the factory nylon if it's brittle for cheap and it's easily hidden.

both can be purchased here: Flexible Pneumatic Tubing & Hoses | AutomationDirect.com

The poly flows slightly better, bends better without kinking and doesn't get hard and brittle. But it's less tolerant to heat. As cheap as a 100ft roll is though you can have enough nylon for life.
 

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yep, that's all you need. If you want to run factory Boost control it's only 2 more lines and the small factory nylon or poly is easy to hide.

The poly doesn't like to touch metal that's 180' or hotter so just be aware of that if you go that route. As long as I don't let it touch the cylinder head directly I don't have any issues with the poly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you saying that you donyt have to run lines to the map sensor? Where do those 2 factory boost control lines go? I'm new to the whole vacuum situation.
 

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to run the car you need 1 line to the baro solenoid/map sensory combo. and 1 line the FPR.

The car will run with just those 2 lines. But you need to have some sort of boost control. So for factory control you need a line from the intake, to the WG solenoid and then from the solenoid to the actuator on the turbo. For running a grainger you just need a line from the intake to the actuator. Here's how I run my grainger.



Now where the straight vac line is in the photo is usually where my grainger sits but I was breaking in a motor so I just wanted low boost and thought I'd snap a pic of how short the boost control line is :) The shorter the vac lines the better.

Here you can see that line installed.




The fitting in the back of the intake comes off 90+ Turbo 8v cars or 3.3 V6's have them too. the big nipple on it goes to the brake booster and the smaller nipple I run my grainger valve off of.


So this will get the car up and running and boosting correctly. But then you want a boost gauge too. So you'll need to run 1 more line from the intake.


If you have a BOV I run them off the TB nipples. Just make sure the nipple you are running the BOV off of get's it's vac boost signal from BEHIND the throttle plate. Some nipples get their source from in front of the TB plate and won't work for the BOV.


The factory 4 way splitters from 84-87 cars work great and keep thing simply I use a small drill to pull out any broken vac lines from them as I grab them at the j-yard. Then just re-insert new line and put a dab of Gorilla glue in the middle to hold them in nice and good. The splitter I posted on the 1st image with the Shelby VC is from a dakota, and only has 3 out of the 4 spots drilled for vac line. They only used 3 on the dakota. Makes things even more simple as if you don't want to use the 4th spot for a vac line it's already sealed up :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
YOkay. I have a crazy amount of vacuum lines...maybe tomorrow morning Ill take a pic and you guys can help me decipher everything
 

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This is the car before I sold it, Reverted it back to stock T2 setup with a 1 piece and all the vaccuum lines for everything. The 1 piece intake puts everything in sight. But the vacuum lines still aren't a monstrosity of a mess. The injector harness takes up the most room then the big line for the PCV system.

 
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