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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Vacuum Line Assistance please...

2.2 Turbo 2, has hard pipe and BOV rest is all stock, solenoids, ecu, etc...

I started with no vac lines at all, trying to rebuild entire vac system from scratch. (want to eliminate anything not needed

1. Installed Intake vacuum line to aftermarket 5 port vacuum block.

2. connected rear intake vac source straight to brake booster and other small vac line running to dash? (boost gage?) capped of rest of system on that end.

3. Ran vac line from waste gate to middle port on solenoid, and from vac-block to top port of solenoid. left bottom port open.

4. (has a vac canister and purge solenoid but nothing is connected)

5. ran vac line to FPR from vac-block.

6. ran vac line to the middle port on bar solenoid from vac-block, then ran top port of bar solenoid to map sensor. left bottom port of bar solenoid open.

7. ran larger port of TB to BOV, capped smaller port on TB.

8. not sure where to run vac line coming off the compressor nipple on turbo? (does this run in with the waste gate feed to the solenoid?)

All the other threads I see and or images of vacuum line routing do not show or explain as I have things ie: vac block, hard pipe, BOV, no stock air box, no stock plastic vac lines etc.

Most images show all the routing but its hard to tell how I should do it with fresh lines starting from scratch. also there are all the small orifices and check valves, I have some of those but not sure if they are needed or not?

I would prefer to ran as stock as possible, and as simple as possible. However im wondering if I should bypass the waste gate solenoid and run a manual boost controller?

If someone can PLEASE read through my post and further advise that would be awesome, as Im really struggling with this!
 

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looks like everything is hooked up right except the BOV. Take off the BOV to make sure but you want it to get it's vac source from behind the throttle plate which should be the small barb. The large barb is ported vac and get's it's reference from in front of the TB blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great, thank you for the reply, Ill try that! PS - what about the vac coming off the turbo housing, where should that go?
 

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8. not sure where to run vac line coming off the turbo? (does this run in with the waste gate feed to the solenoid?)

All the other threads I see and or images of vacuum line routing do not show or explain as I have things ie: vac block, hard pipe, BOV, no stock air box, no stock plastic vac lines etc.

Most images show all the routing but its hard to tell how I should do it with fresh lines starting from scratch. also there are all the small orifices and check valves, I have some of those but not sure if they are needed or not?

I would prefer to ran as stock as possible, and as simple as possible. However im wondering if I should bypass the waste gate solenoid and run a manual boost controller?

If someone can PLEASE read through my post and further advise that would be awesome, as Im really struggling with this!
OK; I KNOW there are vacuum diagrams somwhere in this forum posted and sticky.
You can try to hunt them down in the Diagnostic areas of the forum but,
I recommend you contact a member who goes by NAJ.
He is the most knowledgeable source for vacuum issues such as this.

The information he will provide to you will be fact based and, probably right from the FSM.

In my experience the vacuum line from the compressor housing is used as the boost pressure source for a boost controller.
An air Nipple fitted into the compressor housing provides the most accurate boost pressure signal for controlling the WG.

Hope that helps out.
If not, get in touch with NAJ.

Best wishes. :D
 

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If you are using 91 electronics, including the solenoids and the SBEC then you need to connect the boost control circuit as if it was a 91 (assuming you're using computer control for boost instead of a a manual boost controller). You will have to get either donor orifices from another car, or you can can just custom make your own, which requires a bit of trial and error and road testing. The configuration needs to look like this.



If you're going to use a manual boost controller then you should configure it this way, delete the orifice and just use the vacuum block as the source instead of the fitting on the intake manifold and replace the solenoid with the manual controller.


The other ports on the vacuum block should connect as shown here, you can omit the wastegate circuit from the diagram and substitute it for the BOV...



The lines from the TB should be connected like this, unless you have cruise control, but you didn't mention it so I didn't include it.



The small line coming off the check valve on the brake booster and going through the firewall is the vacuum source for the heater controls.

And it sounds like you have the lines to the BARO/MAP sensor wrong, double check those with the diagram.

 

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91 vac diagram. Sorry I didn't catch you were using 91 electronics. Just thought it was 92 which the vac line routing to the WG solenoid changed in.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got it running pretty well today, thank you all for the Help!

1. I capped both nipples on the TB.
2. Ran turbo vac out to BOV.
3. Ran wastegate to middle port on solenoid, and capped top port. vented bottom port.
4. ran vacuum to baro, top port, middle port to map, bottom port vented.
5. (connected harness to purge but capped all ports) nothing to emissions canister.
6. I had a FPR with a set screw in the end. I tried to run it with vacuum but car ran bad, fell on its face etc. put set screw back in and ran fine.
7. Currently No codes 12/55... Runs good, boosts around 10/11 and holds it.
8. I have an after market Mopar Performance ECU that says (for off-road use only) also have a set of +20 injectors, thinking about trying that out and see if that ECU will allow for more boost?

Otherwise I'm pretty happy with it.

A little concerned as to how the FPR is working with the set screw and no vacuum? But runs fine as mentioned, no codes so must be ok?

Going to work on my EGT and Wideband next.
 

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1. I capped both nipples on the TB.
5. (connected harness to purge but capped all ports) nothing to emissions canister.
If you don't have to pass a sniff test then you can get away with it, but you might fail a visual inspection.

2. Ran turbo vac out to BOV.
You mean the nipple on the turbo compressor housing....?
That is wrong, the BOV will not function.



6. I had a FPR with a set screw in the end. I tried to run it with vacuum but car ran bad, fell on its face etc. put set screw back in and ran fine.

A little concerned as to how the FPR is working with the set screw and no vacuum? But runs fine as mentioned, no codes so must be ok?
You need to have proper fuel management, best to get a pressure tester and make sure you have correct pressure. If you lean the engine out you can do serious damage in a very short time.


8. I have an after market Mopar Performance ECU that says (for off-road use only) also have a set of +20 injectors, thinking about trying that out and see if that ECU will allow for more boost?
Post the part number from the sticker, someone will be able to cross reference it and tell you how it is set up.
 

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Compressor port to orifice, then add a tee after the orifice, one line to WGA other to middle port on WG solenoid, or cap the compressor port iif your using a different source. For the bov use a source that sees boost AND vac, the compressor is never under vacuum
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you don't have to pass a sniff test then you can get away with it, but you might fail a visual inspection.



You mean the nipple on the turbo compressor housing....?
That is wrong, the BOV will not function.





You need to have proper fuel management, best to get a pressure tester and make sure you have correct pressure. If you lean the engine out you can do serious damage in a very short time.




Post the part number from the sticker, someone will be able to cross reference it and tell you how it is set up.
Compressor port to orifice, then add a tee after the orifice, one line to WGA other to middle port on WG solenoid, or cap the compressor port iif your using a different source. For the bov use a source that sees boost AND vac, the compressor is never under vacuum
So compressor line with one way / direction valve, then standard vac T, and add in the WG line then continue to solenoid? (Or what is the orifice, the metal fitting in the vac line?

What source could supply boost and vac pressure for the bov? And the bov seems to be operating fine as currently connected?
 

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The second port is for cruise control if equipped. You do not need a check valve. Simply run your pressure source out of the compressor, put the metal restrictor orifice in that short line. Connect a standard tee after the restrictor. One port on the tee goes to actuator, other to solenoid. Any port behind the throttle plate (small port on TB) will see boost/vac. Make sure the fuel system is ok too, melting a piston is very irritating. I lost one at 10psi because I assumed my fuel system was fine.
 

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I received you PM but it looks like you have received all of the answers you were looking for.
 
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