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Valve cover PCV buffle sucks.

1117 Views 16 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  minimopar
Car is a 89 Daytona Shelby, the PCV system in the car sucks. I already re-seal the buffle inside the valve cover and it is still allowing oil to come out.

Anybody got some ideas of how to stop the oil form coming out? I am using all the stock intake system. No, I can't just connect a hose to the valve cover and let the oil out. I want the PCV system to work!

Anybody out there redesign their pcv system?
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I would venture a guess you have other "issues". Something is making your Oil system develop far more under the valve cover pressure than one could consider normal....I think your Oil blowout is a symptom of something else...
Yeah-broken ring lands.
If you re-sealed the baffle and RTVed the ribs, also make sure the PCV valve is good. Some aftermarket ones suck compared to the OEM mopar ones.
do a compression test...........
internal secrets may be revealed

like broken rings, causing alot of blowby
compression are 110 on all 4 cylinders.

I really doubt I have broken rings, I've been driving the car more than 6000 miles in the past 6 months.
Run a length of hose from the dipstick tube up to the windshield and secure a vac/pressure gauge underneath the wiper. Make sure you can easily read it while driving (on an empty road of course!!) Get into boost then take a reading, 2-3psi is no good. Make sure the dipstick tube isn't loose in the block or rusted out before trying this, however.

-Chuck James
Try adding the TBI cam curtain along with the fixed baffle.
buy a moroso evac kit and install it the pcv system is garbage period on these cars how the evac kit works is you cut a hole in your exhaust pipe and weld athe supplied nipple in at a 45 degree angle then screw the supplied check valve to the nipple and run a piece of 5/8 heater hose from the check valve to the where the pcv hooks to the valve cover the evac kit keeps a negeative pressure on the crank case even under boost conditions the stock pcv system dosent work very well under a boosted condition but the evac kit does and the plus side to the evac kit is no more oil vapor being pulled through the turbo and into the combustion chamber its a win win situation and if you call summit racing you can order just a nipple and a check valve
I fixed my baffle also, and oil is still passing. I have a catch can in line between the valve cover and the aircleaner(not hooked to the cleaner yet).
I also have a tbi curtain to install. If the pcv system is hooked up to the exhaust, won't oil get in there?

Be careful on PCV valves. I have noticed that you MUST have total check valve action with no leaks so that boost does not enter the valve cover.
Blowing the wrong way through several aftermarket PCV valves revealed that air could leak past the piston in the valve. You shouldn't be able to blow through it. The OEM valve did not leak.

I installed a hose from the nipple on the back of the VC to a tee with a hose going to the back of the engine and a small breather filter attached to it. The other side goes to a small chunk of hose with the PCV valve and a vac hose from that to the intake manifold.
I took the pcv valve out completely. I ran a straight hose up and over the TB down to the unfiltered side of the air box. It's always drawing on the VC.

Thing is, your always going to get some oil. It's in the heated air. Once it cools and condenses you've got drops of oil.
Ha! Love the flame job on the VC, 3Bar...hehe... :thumb:
That's what the mesh sponge in the airbox is supposed to trap. It should be a small amount though. If it is constantly dripping out of the airbox, then there is probably an issue. The baffle repair doesn't always work as well as it should. You really have to be meticulous about it. After I fixed the baffle on my CSX, I just had a generic PCV filter on the end of the breather tube. It got a little oily, but never dripped a drop in 7 years. On my Shadow I did the same thing and I still had to make a catch-can. Ironically, the CSX has a lot more blow-by than the Shadow, which was a very tight motor.
no exhaust will not go back into the valve cover as long as you get the one way check valve that screws on to the nipple and if some oil vapor goes into the exhaust who cares atleast its not going into the combustion chamber and your keeping a high vaccum on the crank case
Mopar PCV's suck too

Had similar issues with 2.5T1 engine. Went to Mopar figuring a Mopar PCV should seal 100% right? I mean it's for a factory turbo car.. Nope. Picked up the valve and I could hear it leaking just blowing backwards through it. I know from playing around with a few pressure gauges that I can produce about 2psi reasonably and if the stock PCV is leaking at 2psi, what's it doing at 15?

Then the Mopar counter person said something like $18 for the oem PCV and I just laughed. I'll take the equally leaky purolator pcv for $3.

Actually I think I might run one of these Krank vents on my next turbo motor buildup. Kinda pricey, but guaranteed forever and WON'T leak boost into the crankcase no matter what boost pressure. Website was something like krankvent.com

Some SRT owners are trying an industrial brass check valve from Grainger/Mcmaster now. I'll probably watch and see how they hold up as they cost alot less than a Krank vent, but not cheap enough that I want to replace one ever couple months.
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Yeah, I went though a few at Pep Boys before finding one that sealed. Also, if my old one still seals but is not working (full of crap), I just toss it in a can filled with gasoline for a day or two. Fixes em right up.
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