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go ahead and get the 36.8 mm exh valves ; no extra cost or difficulty in mounting them (my machinist 5-angled em onto my stock seats no problemo)

and get the 3.3 beehives or if you have the $$ the comp cams conicals perhaps ..
 

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you need to match springs with the cam, let us know the cam for a spring recomendation
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you need to match springs with the cam, let us know the cam for a spring recomendation[/QUOTE

it's stock cam would you guys recomend going bigger? got alot done to her... 87 shebly tona, forged pistons, rods, new head, bigger valves, big A&* turbo, 3' exhaust, 565 tranny, spicer clutch, stage 5 logic mod, AFPR, +40 injectors, water meth injectin, FMIC, BOV, 52mmTB, 20+ psi.... let me know what cam you would run...thanks :thumb:
 

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you need to match springs with the cam, let us know the cam for a spring recomendation[/QUOTE

it's stock cam would you guys recomend going bigger? got alot done to her... 87 shebly tona, forged pistons, rods, new head, bigger valves, big A&* turbo, 3' exhaust, 565 tranny, spicer clutch, stage 5 logic mod, AFPR, +40 injectors, water meth injectin, FMIC, BOV, 52mmTB, 20+ psi.... let me know what cam you would run...thanks :thumb:
The manifolds choke the head if there not ported right and then still choke flow, do you have a TU header or a hog ported 2 piece intake? That with a good big valve head I would say F4 cam. But if the manifolds are near stock I would run a F2. If you want less power per PSI and would rather turn up the boost real high there is always just running the TBI cam.

Above 20 PSI though and you need a stiffer spring, like a S60 or a Comp Beehive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
where do you buy the F4 cams and such? and better springs ? sounds like i definalty need the TU header huh? also how nessacary are the arp main stud bolts? have you guys ever run just stock one's on high psi moods?
 

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FWDperformance.com sells a lot of valve train stuff for our cars, among other things.

You need to be using a hybrid turbo to need a TU header, I would get a ported stock header and coat it.

serious bottom end mods aren't needed till huge power. Forged pistons and floating rods with ARP bolts, that about it for a ton of power.

most run huge boost and few engine mods, a cheaper way to make power. But limits you later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well thats what i got going on, im doin the forged rods & piston's, 70mm turbo, +40's injector's, 255gph pump, head all redone, water meth injection,stage 5 FWD program, 3'' exhaust and swing valve, bov, 3"FMIC....basically the works! so im lookin for big power. and try'n to do everything right? is that TU header worth it? thats my debate right now..
 

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well thats what i got going on, im doin the forged rods & piston's, 70mm turbo, +40's injector's, 255gph pump, head all redone, water meth injection,stage 5 FWD program, 3'' exhaust and swing valve, bov, 3"FMIC....basically the works! so im lookin for big power. and try'n to do everything right? is that TU header worth it? thats my debate right now..

A S70 turbo sucks. Barely anymore CFM than a S60 compressor but with a heavy T04B 46 trim compressor. The S60 should be the biggest T3. The TU header lets you run a hybrid easier. I would consider a S50 T04E compressor and a .63 stage 2 turbine instead of the S70. It is a slightly larger compressor wheel in a lot bigger housing, the way to go. My Turbonetics hybrid is dirty cheap and is 500 BHP turbo with 47 lbs of air flow. So I am running a hybrid, a TU header and a TU 3" swing valve, a great street setup. If it is a off road racer buy FWDs tube header mmmm.
 
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