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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My van has always had a rough idle, and I am finally getting tired of it. It idles fairly normal when first started but after driving for a while it starts to want to die at stoplights, and it does actually die sometimes. I have been putting it into neutral at the lights since that helps keep the idle steady. I ran some codes on the van today, where can I find out what these codes mean. :confused: This is what came up:

12
36
61
31
13
33
55

Any of these have an influence on my idle? The van is a 2.5 turbo with automatic transmission, the ac has been removed along with a lot of the vacuum lines.

Thanks,
Ryan Johnson
 

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Vans do seem to have a rough idle!

12 is normal
13-Map signal doesn't change
31-Purge solenoid circuit-open or short in ciruit
33-a/c relay-ignore that one
36-air switch solenoid??????????????
55-completion of codes
61-????????? doesn't show up in my books
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm. What is the purge solinoid circuit?

Could the idle be from my Map sensor? How can I tell if it is working? I think it is a farily new map sensor, not sure though.

Thanks,
Ryan
 

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RJ138 said:
Hmmm. What is the purge solinoid circuit?

Could the idle be from my Map sensor? How can I tell if it is working? I think it is a farily new map sensor, not sure though.

Thanks,
Ryan

The purge solenoid is over on fender next to the wastegate, if its open, it could create a vacuum leak.

Map is probably the signal line and could give it a rough idle, triple check for manifold vacuum to sensor.
 

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Your purge solenoid isn't the problem. It's pulling the code because that entire apparatus has been removed, and the connectors aren't connected. I would guess the MAP sensor just needs to be replaced. It's possible the timing is off a tooth as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I havn't even looked at the timing yet. :bash: I guess I should do that, I have never done it on a 8 valve before, is it pretty easy?

Anyway, I put direct manifold pressure going to the map sensor so I don't see any reason why it would be able to read that. The vacuum lines are brand new, I just drove it after I played with the lines a little and nothing changed, still idles rough after the van gets warmed up.

Are the only signs of a bad map sensor a rough idle? I don't really get on the van at all, but I gave it a little throttle today and the boost went up to 14 psi still.
:confused:
-Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Swapped out the MAP sensor but still the same rough idle. :confused:

Any other suggestions on what it could be? It only dies when it is in gear so at stop lights I have been putting it in neutral to stop it from killing.

Thanks,
Ryan Johnson
 

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Whats your vacuum reading at idle?
Have you checked your cam and ignition timing?
Have you recently cleaned the throttle body and idle motor?
You can open the throttle blades a little to help out older engines. Top left theres a torx head recessed or it might be covered with a tin cover, just use a sharp punch to pry it out. Turn the screw down 1 or 2 turns!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The vac at idle for the van right now is around 16-17, it used to be 19-20 not to long ago...

How should I go about cleaning the throttle body?

I will have to check the cam and ignition timing when I have more time, I have never done it on an 8 valve engine. ;)

Thanks,
Ryan
 

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To clean throttle body, you need a toothbrush and some spray carb cleaner. Take off idle motor, has torx heads. Remove inlet hose, have someone hold the gas pedal at WOT, engine off of course, spray carb cleaner in bore, use toothbrush to clean bore and blade of the black goo, also the idle motor passage. Keep spraying, flushing and cleaning until its clean. Wipe down idle motor pintle and reassemble. Van will be hard to start but after it starts, will run rough and smooth out. :D

Donovans site has some great pics on how to check and do cam timing!
or you can search my name, I have posted it tons of times, ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks! Your always great help! I will try that either tonight or tomorrow. :thumb:

Thanks again,
Ryan
 

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That code 13 will cause a rough idle, and I have yet to see that code caused by a bad map sensor. It is usually caused by bad vacuum lines, and 88-89 SMEC cars seem to be extra picky about this code. You've already replaced the lines, but make sure the Map line isn't T'ed into anything other than the fuel pressure regulator (that's how the factory set it up).

Speaking of fuel pressure regulators, the last few cars I've worked on with code 13 problems all ended up having the same problem, leaking regulators. Look for fuel inside the vacuum line that plugs into the regulator.
 

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I concur with Dave. I just had a code 13, and i noticed my vacuum at idle was about 13. Car idled bad, and the check engine light came on. It used to be about 16. My vacuum harness set up was leaking, so i repared that, and now it is back up to 16. NO codes. Fix your vacuum leaks. Then clear the codes. As for 61, i believe that it is a airbag fault???? i have it too, as my airbag light is on.

Joe
 

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firebaron90 said:
I concur with Dave. I just had a code 13, and i noticed my vacuum at idle was about 13. Car idled bad, and the check engine light came on. It used to be about 16. My vacuum harness set up was leaking, so i repared that, and now it is back up to 16. NO codes. Fix your vacuum leaks. Then clear the codes. As for 61, i believe that it is a airbag fault???? i have it too, as my airbag light is on.

Joe
89 Mini's don't have air bags, :D
 

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ALL RIGHT ALL RIGHT Simon!!!! :p


You MADE me get up off my a$$ and grab the Chilton's manual.......and i was soooo relaxing!!! :thumb:


Code 61: BAd baro read solenoid... An open or shorted condition has been detected int he baro read circut.


This is a common issue, as it happened to both my cars. Dissconnect the plug to the Baro read solenoid, and spray the tabs with electrical parts cleaner and re install. Then clear the code. Worked on the baron, the daytona.

Joe
 

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firebaron90 said:
ALL RIGHT ALL RIGHT Simon!!!! :p


You MADE me get up off my a$$ and grab the Chilton's manual.......and i was soooo relaxing!!! :thumb:


Code 61: BAd baro read solenoid... An open or shorted condition has been detected int he baro read circut.


This is a common issue, as it happened to both my cars. Dissconnect the plug to the Baro read solenoid, and spray the tabs with electrical parts cleaner and re install. Then clear the code. Worked on the baron, the daytona.

Joe
See what happens when you read, heheeeheheee :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I can't find the Baro solinoid. I am guessing it was removed with all the emissions stuff. Should I reinstall a baro solinoid? I will have to find one in the junkyard but that won't be very hard.
 

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A little help for ya Ryan:

I removed the Baro Solenoid altogether and ran the vacuum line straight to the MAP, as my Baro was faulty and I couldn't find any in the junkyards. From what I understand, not having a Baro Solenoid isn't an issue as long as the altitude the vehicle is in isn't drastically changing. That's the use of the BarSol--to detect atmospheric pressure, and apply those readings to the SMEC. You may want to double-check the T's before the MAP sensor though... it's important to have a strong source to it; something I wasn't aware of when I owned it.

Also, the Fuel Pressure Regulator is relatively new. The car died on me in Rochester on the way to Winona in the late fall of 03. The shop I brought it to replaced the FPR as the old one was leaking.

I'm willing to bet that the cam timing is off a tooth. I sold it before I got around to tweaking the timing, so it's potentially a little off.
 

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RJ138 said:
I can't find the Baro solinoid. I am guessing it was removed with all the emissions stuff. Should I reinstall a baro solinoid? I will have to find one in the junkyard but that won't be very hard.

Its on the same bracket as the MAP sensor. The vac line goes to the baro, then off the baro to the MAP.
 
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