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Discussion Starter #1
ok I was on the freeway and came up to stop and go traffic, I had to brake really hard to stop. and when I let off the brake the car REALLY wants to go forward. I pulled over after I could smell transmission and put in park and the thing idled SKY HIGH. so I tapped the gas and it came down a little.i turned it off and then refired and it was lower, and going up and down and then after a while It stayed up.

Its an auto so this is a serious problem. its an 85 Barron TBI. Could it be a TPS Sensor, or a vacuum leak somewhere or maybe the AIS (not quite sure what it is)? I couldnt see anything under hood really along the lines of a vacuum leak but its very strange that it all happened all at once. no symptoms before this.
 

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Disconnect the vacuum line to the power brake booster and plug it. You may have ruptured the diphram inside when you hit the brakes hard. Process of elimination.
 

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Check your TB and accelerator cable. I had the same stupid problem on my Dodge Shadow. Turned out to be an idle speed adjusting screw. It would unscrew by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
there is a line that runs from the TB that is plugged with a sheet metal screw but that has been there for a decent amount of time with no problems.

where exactly is the idle adjustung screw on the tb? if it came loose enough would it fall out or is there some kind of a retainer that would hold it in?
 

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Its on top. Usually its covered by a small plug.

There is no way it can come loose and increase your idle.

Turning it in, tightening, increases idle. Loosening, lowers idle.

This is not to be done to make up for the real reason why the car is idling high. You most likely have a vacuum leak. As mentioned by Whistlin', check around the brake booster first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
am i right when i say that the vacuum line going to the brake booster is on the underside of the booster pointing straight down?

if this doesnt do anything, whats the next step? I only ask because I'm not at home I'm on the road and have limmited computer access. thanks for everything guys!
 

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I had a similar problem where my engine had gotten hot enough to melt my AIS wires. Pop the air cleaner off and see if you aren't encountering the same problem. If that's the case tape them up as tight as you can until you can go junkyard hopping to find another harness. If I remember correctly it's actually a little "bridge" for lack of a better word that has connections on both ends, someone correct me if i'm wrong.

-Joe
 

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Buckracer said:
am i right when i say that the vacuum line going to the brake booster is on the underside of the booster pointing straight down?

if this doesnt do anything, whats the next step? I only ask because I'm not at home I'm on the road and have limmited computer access. thanks for everything guys!
Depends on the car.. ive seen them out any direction.. its the biggest vac hose under hood though, and usually comes from right behind the throttle body neck off the back of intake.

Next step would be to go over every little plastic or rubber hose you see under the hood and make sure both ends are plugged in :)

When you hit the brakes it couldve either popped a line from the pressure or if the engine moved enough it may have pulled a line off that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Heres something else, I looked at the brake booster, lines all look good and I dont see anything popped off. The idle isnt fluctuating like a big vacuum leak, its just very high and sometimes its a little lower and it may fluctuate maybe 500 rpm but not fast, very slow if at all. something else I noticed, on the free way, I cant get the thing to kick down. even cruising at 45 and then floor it, it stays in the same gear. I think the kick down on the 85 barron is a linkage not a vacuum hose though. the AIS is located where on the TB? also could someone tell me what it looks like? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks, With how sluggish the car is right now and the fact that it sounds like its almost "diesel-ing" I think I'm gonns look at the fuel filter. the car sat for a very long time and I havent changed that out. an 85 barron with only 34k on it I'd say is due for one!
 

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Here's another possibility - on my n/a '85 Laser, the ground wire at the TB went open (at the crimp of the ring terminal) and the idle went through the roof - found it by doing the 'wire wiggle' test with the engine roaring away...touched that particular wire and it dropped off immediately.

TT
 

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Discussion Starter #14
SOLVED IT!!!

Weird. I did have a vacuum leak, it was hiding in the front of the passenger side of the compartment going to some solenoid. HOWEVER, this didnt fixt the high idle, as it was still idling high. So going with it being a slug and not kicking down I looked at the kick down linkage. the linkage that attaches to the TB had come off! so when it did, if the angle was right it would wedge the throttle part ways open! sure enough the washer and c clip were sitting right there on the intake after over 400 miles of it doing this! (I was on the my to NYC when It started) Thanks for the help guys, I'm glad to put this one behind me, one issue is bad, two at once is TOUGH!
 

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I had a similar problem where my engine had gotten hot enough to melt my AIS wires. Pop the air cleaner off and see if you aren't encountering the same problem. If that's the case tape them up as tight as you can until you can go junkyard hopping to find another harness. If I remember correctly it's actually a little "bridge" for lack of a better word that has connections on both ends, someone correct me if i'm wrong.

-Joe
Joe, I don't care how old this post is, your advice just helped me with an issue with my 92 Shadow. High idle, thought it was TPS, started to look at wiring after reading your post and low and behold the short "bridging" harness (as you called it) was melted & wires were shorting. This harness has a 10 position connector on one end and then goes to the 4 pin idle air control motor & the 4 pin O2 sensor connector. Cleaned it up real good and pulled apart all the melted wires. Taped them up good to reconnect it and test to see if it helped and it did! I plan to scour the salvage yards in hopes of finding one but I have a permanent plan if I don't. For now the temp fix is good and helps get this on the road.

Thanks a bunch.
Mike
 

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The TBI sub-harnesses melt, crack open, then get corroded. ALL of them do it. It's not likely you'll find a decent one in a junkyard car unless it was a low miles donation. Not to say you shouldn't look. Always check in the yards that get older cars in.

Our daily drivers are all patched together with new wires. I've begged for new ones to be made available but Chrysler changed them every single year at one point, so it would just be a pain in the ass for whoever makes them. Also it's not turbo, so unfortunately nobody cares. Glad to hear you are back on the road Mike.
 
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