Water to air intercooling..

1751 Views 20 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Smokie, Mar 13, 2012

KillerTSI

Discussion Starter · Dec 29, 2011

I have been thinking about how much I love having my boost build so fast because I am minus an intercooler right now. My charge pipe comes off my turbo into my BOV and then strait into my TB. I know the dangers and I am fully aware of knock. I am running the car this way because the previous owner put a full size 2.5 TI radiator on it and never rerouted the intercooler. I bought it that way. I am running 10psi with the way it is setup now and that boost builds super fast. The water to air intercooler would fit perfectly between my BOV and TB.

Does anyone use one? What are the pros and cons? The kit I am looking into is a out $400.00..

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

KillerTSI

Discussion Starter · #2 · Dec 29, 2011

I found some awesome info on this and I will post it as a sticky.

KillerTSI

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 29, 2011

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f19/381434-water-air-intercooling.html

Smokie

· #4 · Dec 29, 2011

Im sorry 2Babie add something that has NUTHING 2 do with the ic butt good stuff...
I just wanted 2 say I have been in a few friendly disagreements. With random people on this thread who stated that a ic does not add much resistance but .... u stated that u have a non ic ic car and its builds boost noticeable fast since u noticed its faster than normal....
Just wanted 2. Ask wen u put ur ic in let me know how sluggish it is building boost..
And do u Feal like u lack 50 hp give or take?

rockslinger

· #5 · Dec 29, 2011

I have one on my van. works great. only have about 10" of I/C piping. I'm only running the factory mitzu currently but even after a good hard run I can jump out and feel the end tank and it's nice a cool. Plus there is only a 0.1 PSI drop. I'll post pics if you want some.

rockslinger

· #6 · Dec 29, 2011

And I'm into the whole thing less then 500 bucks and it will handle well over 700 cfm

The Pope

· #7 · Dec 29, 2011

rockslinger said:
And I'm into the whole thing less then 500 bucks and it will handle well over 700 cfm

1500 CFM for 700 HP lol

water to air is the most volume with least amount of space, and best heat transfer per inch. Same reason the fastest people run them, ice water at the track is nice too.

GLHNSLHT2

· #8 · Dec 30, 2011

Smokie said:
Im sorry 2Babie add something that has NUTHING 2 do with the ic butt good stuff...
I just wanted 2 say I have been in a few friendly disagreements. With random people on this thread who stated that a ic does not add much resistance but .... u stated that u have a non ic ic car and its builds boost noticeable fast since u noticed its faster than normal....
Just wanted 2. Ask wen u put ur ic in let me know how sluggish it is building boost..
And do u Feal like u lack 50 hp give or take?

A good intercooler will not slow down boost build up. Now if you have a restrictive POS like the R/T came with then yea it might slow it slightly, but probably not enough to notice.

I don't know how R/T can say he likes how fast his boost builds without an i/c as the car he bought hasn't had an i/c since he's owned it.

KillerTSI

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 30, 2011

Well, maybe because I have owned an R/T that was completely stock and it didn't spool until 4k but the one I have now spools at 2500. Also in case you didn't know putting a front mount on anything causes you to lose a pound or two of boost due to having more space to pressurize. I don't know how you can pretend to give knowledge when your knowledge is clearly flawed.

GLHNSLHT2

· #10 · Dec 30, 2011

4grand???? You had something seriously wrong then. A T3 should be able to spool it's turbo by 2500 easy. Hell my untouched 8v head on my 2.5 would spool a S60 turbo by 2500 and it flows half what a T3 head flows. Like I said the T3 i/c sucks. Putting a good front mount in will maybe be a half psi restriction. Going to a good front mount from a stock T3 i/c will GAIN you boost in the intake manifold as the pressure loss isn't as bad. But you'll want to turn your boost controller down so you're running the same boost and running the turbo at a lower rpm.

KillerTSI

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 30, 2011

Your bass ackwards my friend. All R/T's spool slower. Just ask Jackson.

turismolover22

· #12 · Dec 30, 2011

Also, good BOV placement helps keep boost in the pipes.

GLHNSLHT2

· #13 · Dec 30, 2011

So my 8v spools a bigger turbo 1500rpms sooner?

Maybe the stock boost control limits the amount of boost you can have till 4grand but that's not what spool up is. How much boost does your R/T have by 2500?

Drop a grainger on that r/t and I guarantee it won't be 4grand till you get to your full boost level with 200+cfm on that head

Lotashelbys

· #14 · Dec 30, 2011

KillerR/T said:
Your bass ackwards my friend. All R/T's spool slower. Just ask Jackson.

Actually he is more right than you think. If I said different I dont remember when but a stock TIII will start to build boost by that 2500 mark. I guess a 2.5TI with a stock Mitsu will build boost faster than a TIII but thats all I would have said about that......

Smokie

· #15 · Dec 30, 2011

Well I just wanted 2 add that in their had a friend in fl that had a problem with a skyline block in a 240sx. And wen we shortens the rought and stoles th ic and sealed a pipe other a bag of ice and he got boost at 400ish rpm earlier ..hed burn in 3rd gear under boost as soon as spool started boosting....
So I say btw mouth the ic light back 2and the radiator and putt the radiator forwerwerd as far as possible then mount their.. and a second fan on the side of the radiator that doesn't already have 1 wire it 2 a toggle switch. And build a hood scope kinda 4like the bumped around the bottem 2end catch air and push it up and side and top walls so air has nowhere 2 go but the ic/radiator ..
If u wish 2I keep ac bye a small after market and mount it above the scope that would come down and grab the air that would normally slide around the splash hardship and oil pans ..so it would scope air up in2 the bumper/condenser. Just saying less tube the quicker and the better almost 4exact eny size turbo Realy my t1 could produce boost almost 4 shure faster than alot if non high Modded t2 and up and wait till its done..
My advice try make the path as short as possible and the ic as good flowing. Iv grinder down an ic 2and a rx8 be4 and he did a second better in a o t0 120. Mph

See less See more

KillerTSI

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 30, 2011

Full boost in my previous stock R/T and Tony's is at approx. 4k..

jerstew

· #17 · Dec 30, 2011

2

Just wanted to post a pic and some info to help you or anybody thinking about a W/A install.
This stuff fits nice in an L-body so it should be an easy install in the larger cars.
I bought everything from Frozenboost. Definitely cheap and from China, but seems to be of nice quality.

I/C is the type 9 for 350hp. Should be adequate for most. Inlet/outlets are 2.5"
Bigger cars could probably fit the next size up, but you want the smallest size I/C that is adequate for your HP. Save the space in the engine bay. System efficiency is going to be more dependent on your heat exchanger, so I think bigger is always better here.

The heat exchanger is the 24"x12"x1". It fits perfectly in the front of my Omni. Comes with mounting tabs, but I ground them off and used rubber plugs from the hardware store to make snug vibration free mounts.

Outlet to a stock throttle body takes a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer.
For the turbo outlet to the I/C inlet I used a 2.5" to 2" 45 degree bending reducer then a steel coupler to a short length of 2". No cutting needed.

I'm mounting the bov directly to the I/C as I have seen a couple others on the forum use this approach.

Unfortunately the stock airbox isn't really an option and the battery had to be relocated.
On the plus side, this allows you to keep the full size radiator. I am actually using the big radiator from a T1 LeBaron in the Omni, barely but perfectly fits. Posted a pic of H/E and radiator next to the alternator.

I think the blue looks silly, they didn't have the reducer I needed in black.

See less See more

The Pope

· #18 · Dec 30, 2011

KillerR/T said:
Full boost in my previous stock R/T and Tony's is at approx. 4k..

are you talking a 92-93? My 92 Shadow does a boost creep looking thing to 12 PSI in 3 steps with a 2.5. But my 91 R/T hit full boost at about 2400, my car anyway. 16v's push turbos harder, so they'll push a bigger turbo. But they do hit spool at a higher RPM. I went over this with Turbonetics, the 8v engines just have more cylinder pressure and VE at 2000 RPM. But 4,000? Sounds more like a computer cal.

The Pope

· #19 · Dec 30, 2011

jerstew said:
Just wanted to post a pic and some info to help you or anybody thinking about a W/A install.
This stuff fits nice in an L-body so it should be an easy install in the larger cars.
I bought everything from Frozenboost. Definitely cheap and from China, but seems to be of nice quality.

I/C is the type 9 for 350hp. Should be adequate for most. Inlet/outlets are 2.5"
Bigger cars could probably fit the next size up, but you want the smallest size I/C that is adequate for your HP. Save the space in the engine bay. System efficiency is going to be more dependent on your heat exchanger, so I think bigger is always better here.

The heat exchanger is the 24"x12"x1". It fits perfectly in the front of my Omni. Comes with mounting tabs, but I ground them off and used rubber plugs from the hardware store to make snug vibration free mounts.

Outlet to a stock throttle body takes a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer.
For the turbo outlet to the I/C inlet I used a 2.5" to 2" 45 degree bending reducer then a steel coupler to a short length of 2". No cutting needed.

I'm mounting the bov directly to the I/C as I have seen a couple others on the forum use this approach.

Unfortunately the stock airbox isn't really an option and the battery had to be relocated.
On the plus side, this allows you to keep the full size radiator. I am actually using the big radiator from a T1 LeBaron in the Omni, barely but perfectly fits. Posted a pic of H/E and radiator next to the alternator.

I think the blue looks silly, they didn't have the reducer I needed in black.

LMAO. talk about over kill on the heat exchanger. That one is for running a Cummins lol. That thing should be ice cold when it is hot out for sure. A local is doing a 655 / HE351 / 8v GLH T. I'm doing the porting and plenum intake. It looks like that IC is a pretty good fit. Don't forget the all finished photos :thumb:

jim34

· #20 · Dec 30, 2011

there is little difference in spool by bypassing the intercooler, have you ever took the pressure hose of a properly running turbocharger and felt how violently the air will come out ?

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.