I found some awesome info on this and I will post it as a sticky.
1500 CFM for 700 HP lolAnd I'm into the whole thing less then 500 bucks and it will handle well over 700 cfm
A good intercooler will not slow down boost build up. Now if you have a restrictive POS like the R/T came with then yea it might slow it slightly, but probably not enough to notice.Im sorry 2Babie add something that has NUTHING 2 do with the ic butt good stuff...
I just wanted 2 say I have been in a few friendly disagreements. With random people on this thread who stated that a ic does not add much resistance but .... u stated that u have a non ic ic car and its builds boost noticeable fast since u noticed its faster than normal....
Just wanted 2. Ask wen u put ur ic in let me know how sluggish it is building boost..
And do u Feal like u lack 50 hp give or take?
Actually he is more right than you think. If I said different I dont remember when but a stock TIII will start to build boost by that 2500 mark. I guess a 2.5TI with a stock Mitsu will build boost faster than a TIII but thats all I would have said about that......Your bass ackwards my friend. All R/T's spool slower. Just ask Jackson.
are you talking a 92-93? My 92 Shadow does a boost creep looking thing to 12 PSI in 3 steps with a 2.5. But my 91 R/T hit full boost at about 2400, my car anyway. 16v's push turbos harder, so they'll push a bigger turbo. But they do hit spool at a higher RPM. I went over this with Turbonetics, the 8v engines just have more cylinder pressure and VE at 2000 RPM. But 4,000? Sounds more like a computer cal.Full boost in my previous stock R/T and Tony's is at approx. 4k..
LMAO. talk about over kill on the heat exchanger. That one is for running a Cummins lol. That thing should be ice cold when it is hot out for sure. A local is doing a 655 / HE351 / 8v GLH T. I'm doing the porting and plenum intake. It looks like that IC is a pretty good fit. Don't forget the all finished photos :thumb:Just wanted to post a pic and some info to help you or anybody thinking about a W/A install.
This stuff fits nice in an L-body so it should be an easy install in the larger cars.
I bought everything from Frozenboost. Definitely cheap and from China, but seems to be of nice quality.
I/C is the type 9 for 350hp. Should be adequate for most. Inlet/outlets are 2.5"
Bigger cars could probably fit the next size up, but you want the smallest size I/C that is adequate for your HP. Save the space in the engine bay. System efficiency is going to be more dependent on your heat exchanger, so I think bigger is always better here.
The heat exchanger is the 24"x12"x1". It fits perfectly in the front of my Omni. Comes with mounting tabs, but I ground them off and used rubber plugs from the hardware store to make snug vibration free mounts.
Outlet to a stock throttle body takes a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer.
For the turbo outlet to the I/C inlet I used a 2.5" to 2" 45 degree bending reducer then a steel coupler to a short length of 2". No cutting needed.
I'm mounting the bov directly to the I/C as I have seen a couple others on the forum use this approach.
Unfortunately the stock airbox isn't really an option and the battery had to be relocated.
On the plus side, this allows you to keep the full size radiator. I am actually using the big radiator from a T1 LeBaron in the Omni, barely but perfectly fits. Posted a pic of H/E and radiator next to the alternator.
I think the blue looks silly, they didn't have the reducer I needed in black.