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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, so my Lancer has been doing this weird thing lately, where it feels like the ignition will cut out for a split second then kick back in. It doesn't have to be boosting to do this, and it's much worse on say the first start of a cold day. When this annoyance happens it jerks the car pretty bad and I can only imagine that it's pretty hard on the tranny. Oh ya, and the tach will drop and then quickly snap back to place when this happens, so they're linked some how. I'm truly stumped on this one, so please help me out here guys.

Thanks, Zach.
 

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If your Tach goes to 0 when it cuts out like this, its DEFINATELY your halls effect pickup. This black plastic disc under the distributor cap effects both spark and fuel, as well as sends a signal for the tach. Change it now before it leaves you stranded, with a Mopar part. In my experience the aftermarket pickups are difficult to find at best and dont last very long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
it doesn't spit any codes, but I was thinking it might be that. I'll pick one up and...maybe some wires while I'm at it. This thing needs a general ignition upgrade anyways haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I got my new HEP, had my dad order it from a private parts shop we like but totally forgot to mention the mopar version. Oh well, this one's OEM hopefully it'll work. I'm about to put it in today and I'll keep ya guys posted for those who care hehe.

~Zach.
 

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My parents had the same trouble on a 600 and Button Dodge of Kokomo charged them over $1100 over several days of trying to fix the problem in all sorts of new parts....I found out a few months later when I saw they were not driving it any more, I started it, opened the hood and gently shook the HEP wire and it died....I put in one that I always carried with me....just in case....it worked for many trouble free years until it was totalled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
GAAA!! I went to college this morning and it did it again....seems to me that this problems occurs most when it's been cold out. So it does it a lot in mornings and if it's set a while on a cold night....does this info help anybody? I really need this thing to run right...it's my only ride hehe
 

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Hey man, I had the same problem. After fixing a broken wire at the HEP, the car seemed to run fine but died again the next day. My alternator harness was what went bad. See if you can make the car stall or shut off when you move that harness around. Mine would stall at a certain position, and when I took all the tape and plastic shield off, I couldn't get it to stall again, so I was like WTF and tried another alternator harness I had and its been running perfect ever since.

If the HEP is good, then its the wiring from the HEP to the computer is bad. Hope this helps, and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, well I've been really paying attention when this problem occurs and I have some more detailed info on it. Here we go...

1: The problem happens when the air outside is cold.

2: It's never done it while in boost, only in vacuum.

3: the car will sputter and almost stall at idle as well, so it's not a throttle position (I think)

Please help me out here, it's not spitting codes and I can't seems to find the problem. It's getting worse and worse every day and I can't afford to take it to a mechanic...plus my college turned me down cause my car it "more than 15 years old"...retarted
:(
 

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OK, well I've been really paying attention when this problem occurs and I have some more detailed info on it. Here we go...

1: The problem happens when the air outside is cold.

2: It's never done it while in boost, only in vacuum.

3: the car will sputter and almost stall at idle as well, so it's not a throttle position (I think)

Please help me out here, it's not spitting codes and I can't seems to find the problem. It's getting worse and worse every day and I can't afford to take it to a mechanic...plus my college turned me down cause my car it "more than 15 years old"...retarted
:(
It could be a TPS if it does it at cruising speeds with the throttle in one position......Now for it trying to cut off at idel sounds like a IAC valve, what kind of plugs do you have in the car, and whats the condition of them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think they're champion copper cores...and they're fairly new, I've had them out recently and they looked fine.
 

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I had a problem like that last november and someone on here told me to get the alternator checked out because if something in your alt fried(diode trio?), it would send alternating current instead of direct current causing the car to go nuts. Well the alternator turned out being bad and bought a new one, and hasnt done it since. Worth a shot to try it
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I guess that's possible...but it doesn't seem likely since the problem only happens when the outside air is cold. But I have a spare alt. and I need to replace my belt anyways hehe. If anyone else has ideas please feel free to send your input :)
 

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my wifes car was doing similer things so I took some carb cleaner sprayed all vacume lines throtal body and intake manifold at every vacume leake the rpms would change. In the cold weather all the gaskets and vacume lines will open up these littel leaks this wont cost much to find out good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok guys, I really need some help...some expert advise. The problem is not the alt. I've checked, and I don't want to keep throwing parts at it without reason. It's very specific. The problem occurs when the outside air is cold, it will not happen in boost, the tach is directly linked to the ignition cuts, and it bugs the hell out of me.
 
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