With that kind of setup, running 16-18psi you should be able to see close to 280HP.
What am I looking at?
ok I am going to be going thru and doing some upgrades(obviously) one at a time so I would like some good none smarta55 comments, Just some good opinions/advice or thoughts ok? Thanks in advance :thumb:
I want around 300 hp give or take 15-20 hp i currently havean 86 laser xt speed t-1
here are what I am looking at and I am also going to list parts and hp gains (i know that you wont get all the hp from each part and then add up to a 400 hp monster )
the s60 kit complete says 300hp i am not sure if thats wheel or crank either way that'd be perfect for my goal and its around 1500
Now here is the alternative
stick with stock t-1 and upgrade individual parts
such as LM stage 2 was told that for a car that is stock or mildly modded is between 20-30 hp sometimes more sometimes less but for me id say 25? full 2 and a half inch exhaust no cat guessing here 10-15?
t-2 one piece intake another 5 or sostock t-2 IC maybe 5-10?(again this is over a t-1) or dsm IC ??+20's, 5-7 hp?, 52mm TB not sure....ported exhaust and intake manifold 5-10 hp? 255 FP.. and the bigger garrett turbo maybe a s60 from a tbird another 10-15? then finally the 3 inch swing valve from T.U. which is 5 hp over stock at peak?
From what I can guess(remember this is just an estimate so i can decide what way to go..) is at at least 80 hp from the alternative
which would put me at around 230 whp? torque I am not sure of(would anybody care to give a good estimate and why they think that would be right?
and is this reasonable to expect? or am i cutting short? and the totla cost of this would be far less than the s60 kit...
thoughts?? :headbang:
I want around 300 hp give or take 15-20 hp i currently havean 86 laser xt speed t-1
here are what I am looking at and I am also going to list parts and hp gains (i know that you wont get all the hp from each part and then add up to a 400 hp monster )
the s60 kit complete says 300hp i am not sure if thats wheel or crank either way that'd be perfect for my goal and its around 1500
Now here is the alternative
stick with stock t-1 and upgrade individual parts
such as LM stage 2 was told that for a car that is stock or mildly modded is between 20-30 hp sometimes more sometimes less but for me id say 25? full 2 and a half inch exhaust no cat guessing here 10-15?
t-2 one piece intake another 5 or sostock t-2 IC maybe 5-10?(again this is over a t-1) or dsm IC ??+20's, 5-7 hp?, 52mm TB not sure....ported exhaust and intake manifold 5-10 hp? 255 FP.. and the bigger garrett turbo maybe a s60 from a tbird another 10-15? then finally the 3 inch swing valve from T.U. which is 5 hp over stock at peak?
From what I can guess(remember this is just an estimate so i can decide what way to go..) is at at least 80 hp from the alternative
which would put me at around 230 whp? torque I am not sure of(would anybody care to give a good estimate and why they think that would be right?
and is this reasonable to expect? or am i cutting short? and the totla cost of this would be far less than the s60 kit...
thoughts?? :headbang:
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
I'm in the same boat as you. I however have an '86 Laser XE, whats the difference between the two?
Anyway, my plan is to rewire and swap in a T2. I have the T2 engine waiting for me. My purchase plan: Stage 5 Calibrated SMEC from FWDperformance. The required bits for the ECU IE: +40% injectors, 3bar map, 3" exhaust, better flowing muffler, and a big a$$ intercooler.
The ECU puts the boost to 18psi and cutoff at 29psi. So I think I'll grainger it to 22-24psi. Unless I need forged pistons to push those numbers.
Should cost me less than a grand and put me at around 250 hp, I'm hoping.
Anyway, my plan is to rewire and swap in a T2. I have the T2 engine waiting for me. My purchase plan: Stage 5 Calibrated SMEC from FWDperformance. The required bits for the ECU IE: +40% injectors, 3bar map, 3" exhaust, better flowing muffler, and a big a$$ intercooler.
The ECU puts the boost to 18psi and cutoff at 29psi. So I think I'll grainger it to 22-24psi. Unless I need forged pistons to push those numbers.
Should cost me less than a grand and put me at around 250 hp, I'm hoping.
Stock intercooler will be a massive restriction, you can use it but you would be better off going with a better unit.
Ported stuff is good, 2 piece intake isn't worth 5hp, just apparently a little more torque and it moves the powerband down 300 rpm or so.
I would get a header, Typert's comes to mind, cheap and flows.
Ported stuff is good, 2 piece intake isn't worth 5hp, just apparently a little more torque and it moves the powerband down 300 rpm or so.
I would get a header, Typert's comes to mind, cheap and flows.
Here is my take on it. You will have to upgrade to the blow thru set-up that is used on the later years which you know already. 2.5" exhaust is good but why not go 3" as there is room and it's not much louder depending on the muffler choice. You will need a good efficient intercooler, something that sees alot of fresh air and while your at it run a 3" hose from the turbo inlet to a open air filter in the front of the car. Make sure all the original equipment is in good working order. That is good fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, ect. Use the logic module from a intercooled car like the 86glhs and run the 20% over inj. and use a adjustable regulator to fine tune the set-up. Every car is different so nothing is absolute. Depending on your set-up you could run 16-18 psi. with the good intercooler and make sure you watch the gauges. You do have good quality gauges, right (e.g.t., a/f meter, boost) Run one or two steps colder in the plugs dept. as well.
You can use your factory turbo and make a inlet adaptor or use the later compressor cover, whichever you go with is fine, but a upgrade would be a most welcome item. That would depend on your budget. I would also do a mild clean-up of the head and have a good three angle valve job done. This shouldn't be more than around $200.00 at the most, depending on what you have done. This should put close to where you need. Good luck.
You can use your factory turbo and make a inlet adaptor or use the later compressor cover, whichever you go with is fine, but a upgrade would be a most welcome item. That would depend on your budget. I would also do a mild clean-up of the head and have a good three angle valve job done. This shouldn't be more than around $200.00 at the most, depending on what you have done. This should put close to where you need. Good luck.
^^^^^^ Excellent advice, :thumb:
thanks it helps a bit. But here is what else I want to know...
My car is the stock t-1 now so thats 146bhp right?
Now I have the t-2 head(will I need to get it cross drilled or anything to work correct on the t1 block?) t1 is all stock seems to run good I was thinking put on t-2 top end, One piece blow thru intake,52 MM throttle body,dsm side mount Ic,t2 turbo(whats the difference between the t1 turbo and the t2?)+20's,Mopar Performance stage 2 comp which is 14 psi,the bigger exhaust, g valve, 3 inch swingvalve, and ported manifolds. and timed to about 14 degree's
and I will be doing the suspension as well with shelby z parts...
and I also will be using royal pruple for the juice. with what I just listed what do you think I would have to the wheels? and TQ?
or would it be best to buy cindy's taft s3 kit?
or the mp super 60 setup?
which is best/ and or most effecient?
My car is the stock t-1 now so thats 146bhp right?
Now I have the t-2 head(will I need to get it cross drilled or anything to work correct on the t1 block?) t1 is all stock seems to run good I was thinking put on t-2 top end, One piece blow thru intake,52 MM throttle body,dsm side mount Ic,t2 turbo(whats the difference between the t1 turbo and the t2?)+20's,Mopar Performance stage 2 comp which is 14 psi,the bigger exhaust, g valve, 3 inch swingvalve, and ported manifolds. and timed to about 14 degree's
and I will be doing the suspension as well with shelby z parts...
and I also will be using royal pruple for the juice. with what I just listed what do you think I would have to the wheels? and TQ?
or would it be best to buy cindy's taft s3 kit?
or the mp super 60 setup?
which is best/ and or most effecient?
Head bolts up, you can cross drill if you but it makes the head crack more!utah_pure said:thanks it helps a bit. But here is what else I want to know...
My car is the stock t-1 now so thats 146bhp right?
Now I have the t-2 head(will I need to get it cross drilled or anything to work correct on the t1 block?) t1 is all stock seems to run good I was thinking put on t-2 top end, One piece blow thru intake,52 MM throttle body,dsm side mount Ic,t2 turbo(whats the difference between the t1 turbo and the t2?)+20's,Mopar Performance stage 2 comp which is 14 psi,the bigger exhaust, g valve, 3 inch swingvalve, and ported manifolds. and timed to about 14 degree's
and I will be doing the suspension as well with shelby z parts...
and I also will be using royal pruple for the juice. with what I just listed what do you think I would have to the wheels? and TQ?
or would it be best to buy cindy's taft s3 kit?
or the mp super 60 setup?
which is best/ and or most effecient?
T1 and T2 Garrett are the same, you just need an adapter for the T1 comp housing
There is a thread about the Taft cams, read that!
S60 is a wicked kit, just don't use the S60 computer.
so performance wise there is nothing to gain from the turbo off the t-2? is that right?
Hmm in that case I will just use a s60 off the tbirds...
and so would it be better to just buy the mopar s60 cam and ic and turbo?
and whats wrong with the comp?
Hmm in that case I will just use a s60 off the tbirds...
and so would it be better to just buy the mopar s60 cam and ic and turbo?
and whats wrong with the comp?
utah_pure said:so performance wise there is nothing to gain from the turbo off the t-2? is that right?
Hmm in that case I will just use a s60 off the tbirds...
and so would it be better to just buy the mopar s60 cam and ic and turbo?
and whats wrong with the comp?
The S60 computer has no oxygen sensor input and its open loop, good for power but not very streetable!
i was thinking the other day.... can you without using a computer.... use the output from the o2 sensor to control the fuel pressure???turbovanman said:The S60 computer has no oxygen sensor input and its open loop, good for power but not very streetable!
does that make sence??... completly stock the computer controls the fuel pressure right?? and it takes the o2 sensors output to help regulate it right??
so could you use the voltage from the o2 sensor to help control it?? or are too many different things involved and you would in effect be building a computer?? (if for instance what your talking about with the super 60 computer not taking that into acount)
No, the oxygen sensor does not control fuel pressure, it tells the computer how much oxgyen is in the exhaust and the computer compensates the fuel mixture and toggles the sensor to create 14.7:1 in closed looped.ke6960 said:i was thinking the other day.... can you without using a computer.... use the output from the o2 sensor to control the fuel pressure???
does that make sence??... completly stock the computer controls the fuel pressure right?? and it takes the o2 sensors output to help regulate it right??
so could you use the voltage from the o2 sensor to help control it?? or are too many different things involved and you would in effect be building a computer?? (if for instance what your talking about with the super 60 computer not taking that into acount)
In open loop, the computer goes into preset tables and the oxgyen sensor is ignored.
In theory you could use the oxgyen sensor to alter the fuel pressure by using electronics but if the oxygen sensor fails or gets weak, it will alter your pressure.
No... vac/ boost reference (ie. the vaccuum line) controls fuel pressure. The computer, based on programmed "tables" controls injector pulsewidth. Basically how long each one sprays for each cycle. The computer takes info from several sensors, tps, iat, map, etc. and then fits all the info into a "curve". The computer never actually "sees" what the real time fuel pressure is, it just knows what it was programmed for.does that make sence??... completly stock the computer controls the fuel pressure right?? and it takes the o2 sensors output to help regulate it right??
I'd put a cam change at the bottom of the list.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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