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Discussion Starter #1
I have been searching and cannot seem to find the answer. 2003+ 2.4 N/A block, N/A crank, assume properly tuned with forged pistons and h-beam rods. At around what HP will the sleeves fail? or is there another part of the block that fails first?

Thanks.
 

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welcome to the list.

I am not sure of the limits, up past 500 WHP for the NA 2.4 block though.

If you are looking to really push a 2.4 it is worth it to get a 2.4 turbo engine in the first place. The SRT 4 engine is expensive, people sell them as much as $3000. But you can pick up a PT turbo engine for $600 and they are the same thing except for the intake. The stock 2.4 turbo crank alone is also pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the welcome!

Im kicking my self right now, i just passes on a wrecked srt4 for $400. the only reason i even know anything about this engine is from this forum. im a honda guy trying to get away from honda, i know its limits well but the 2.4 is all new to me, i want to do some sort of rwd drag application. 500whp would be fun, but 700-800whp would get me where i want. i can do that with a honda, but it will need sleeves for the block i would be using and it spins the wrong way. not willing to fork out money for a reverse rotation g-gorce, i like the idea i have seen people do here with the jeep/toyota transmission stuff. where i am located, turbo pt's are hard to come by. but the n/a stuff is everywhere.
 

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depends on how fast you want to go. The Honda makes the HP but the torque number is barely half that of the HP. 400 WHP with an L body and good driving is 10s, your luck to hit that in a Honda with less than 600 WHP. L bodys are almost 9s now with about 530 WHP and an 8v Dodge engine.

There are millions of turbo PTs out there, they are easy to find. The 180 HP engine is the same as the 230 HP engine. Different computers.

Check out the RWD section, lots of choices there. One of the turbo 2.4 Colts runs mids 9s, I believe on around 450 WHP. But check that section out. HP depends where you want to go though, 700-800 WHP RWD is a lot. Need a full tube frame chassis car to use it
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
low 9 second passes would be the slowest. ultimate goal would be low 8 second passes. i already have a full rwd chassis car for the power plant. our fwd honda makes 850 now. i just dont want a 5k transmission. further more, i have no idea what the jeep trans can handle? i know the toyotas are proven, but that later. for proof of concept, i would love to assemble a n/a 2.4 with srt4 rods/pistons and just push it on the dyno. seems pretty inexpensive to play with.
 

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The 2003+ FWD blocks are all the same casting as is the crank. The N/A oil pump is more coveted by some and superseded to the turbo pump anyway. Turbo blocks are drilled for the oil drain tube and piston oil squirters. Those are easy, and the "new fad" is to remove the piston oil squirters anyway(less chance of failure and less oil gets past the rings to cause det). The bedplate is what can crack at high HP, so it is milled flat and billet "straps" are used to bolt across the mains. DCR has come out with straps that dont require machining the bedplate and claim to still handle high HP. 500whp is about the limit for stock SRT pistons, rods and when the mains start to squirm, if the tuning is good.

Upgrading the trigger wheel may be wise also, as some loosen or shatter, taking out an expensive build.

There are quite a few high HP builds on the different Neon and SRT forums that you may gleam some good info from, but the basic answer is that you can start with a N/A 2.4L engine if building for high HP.
 

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What kind of fuel are you going to be running. That *might* have an impact on how well the bottom end deals with the intended power goal. As stated the bedplate it the part that shows its weakness first. With correct and good bracing 1000hp can be put through it, BUT, I'd be willing to bet on a filled block.

If you are talking about the 2.4 out of the SRT-4 Neon, then that is a cast iron block. No sleeves to worry about! :) I don't know of any issues with the bores on them, however that's not to say it can't happen. We've had a few instances of people with 2.2/2.4's crack them at the top, but that's only been a few cases and above 500whp. Thus far posting the block in that area has solved the issue without loosing drivabilility from what I've read here.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 2003+ FWD blocks are all the same casting as is the crank. The N/A oil pump is more coveted by some and superseded to the turbo pump anyway. Turbo blocks are drilled for the oil drain tube and piston oil squirter's. Those are easy, and the "new fad" is to remove the piston oil squirter's anyway(less chance of failure and less oil gets past the rings to cause det). The bedplate is what can crack at high HP, so it is milled flat and billet "straps" are used to bolt across the mains. DCR has come out with straps that dont require machining the bedplate and claim to still handle high HP. 500whp is about the limit for stock SRT pistons, rods and when the mains start to squirm, if the tuning is good.

Upgrading the trigger wheel may be wise also, as some loosen or shatter, taking out an expensive build.

There are quite a few high HP builds on the different Neon and SRT forums that you may gleam some good info from, but the basic answer is that you can start with a N/A 2.4L engine if building for high HP.
I would remove the oil squirter's anyways, thats what I have always done for other drag race applications. I will use an n/a block, as srt4's are rare where I am. thanks for the bedplate advice. Looking to do a stock srt4 piston and rod combo to start with then go from there. as for the trigger wheel, I already have a AEM series2 and optical crank/cam sensors. I would re-use that system. thanks for the crank trigger heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What kind of fuel are you going to be running. That *might* have an impact on how well the bottom end deals with the intended power goal. As stated the bedplate it the part that shows its weakness first. With correct and good bracing 1000hp can be put through it, BUT, I'd be willing to bet on a filled block.

If you are talking about the 2.4 out of the SRT-4 Neon, then that is a cast iron block. No sleeves to worry about! :) I don't know of any issues with the bores on them, however that's not to say it can't happen. We've had a few instances of people with 2.2/2.4's crack them at the top, but that's only been a few cases and above 500whp. Thus far posting the block in that area has solved the issue without loosing drivabilility from what I've read here.
I use rockett 118 or vp c16, sometimes q16, but i don't like the cost of q. or c. for that matter. rockett is good stuff and cheaper but not by much and shipping over an ocean kills especially with hazmat fees.

I don't think I will get an srt4 neon or pt block. what do the cast iron n/a blocks come in? 03+ pt's, neons? caravan? town & country? I think I have a lead on a 2000-05 style ACR neon, is that a 2.4 cast block? I think my import days are numbered and this might be my new favorite motor that I will want to put into everything. I still like the 1jz and 2jz though. might take a little while to get over them. thanks for the block posting advice.
 

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I would think beefing up the bed plate and filling the block should be more than enough for 800 HP. There is talk though at 1000 HP you need a steel crank, even at 800 it wouldn't be a bad idea to step up. The block needs to be stronger stock because of the crank, a steel crank puts less twist on the block. Shadows engine is closing 600 HP with an older block, with a steel crank. I would think if the block is in question you should look at this.

As another example When Dodge did a 2.5 turbo they also beefed up the block for adding a cast crank with more stroke and with boost. When you look at a 69 HP 440 block, very week but with a steel crank. Then look at a 400 block and 75 up 440 block, really strong blocks with weak cast cranks. Removing flex in the crank will lower the blocks job of keeping it straight
 

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Well aloha redline808 and welcome on board. Great to see you jumping ship. You came to the right place. We got some old foggies here that can answer all your question you need for your build. Damm can't believe the guy sold the srt4 for $400.

Where are you in hawaii. I'm in pahoa. I also jump ship and went economics.

James
 

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Discussion Starter #13
aaaaloha.....i am in keaau. still looking for a MA5 trans tho. old foggies have the best knowlege, just have to learn how to listen.
 

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2002 dodge neon SE Can it be transformed into a srt motor

I have a 2002 dodge neon automatic and I am looking for some information on what it would cost to transform it into a srt motor? Im new to up grading motors/ what would I need to do that I know a Turbo kit but what else.
 

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Re: 2002 dodge neon SE Can it be transformed into a srt motor

I have a 2002 dodge neon automatic and I am looking for some information on what it would cost to transform it into a srt motor? Im new to up grading motors/ what would I need to do that I know a Turbo kit but what else.
Start a new thread- you'll get more responses that way instead of piggybacking another thread.
 
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