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Discussion Starter #1
i have milky oil and coolant. block is not cracked (mangnafluxed), head is new (new casting, new parts), but non-chrysler.

headgasket is felpro.

i'm looking at my headgasket, trying to figure out if it looks correct.

If a coolant or oil hole in the gasket misses the hole in the head a bit, is that bad? The gasket is still compressed so it wont leak right? Just cause some flow restriction?

Also, notice how the holes in the head cause the uncompressed areas of the gasket to be "raised" (on the soft, head side of the gasket), if any of those areas is not raised enough to be felt with a fingernail, does that mean it wasn't compressed enough?

Is it possible to have a leak between an oil passage and coolant via the headgasket? Is there any way to confirm this by looking at the head gasket?
 

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A headgasket can leak between any components they are to seal, compression to oil or coolant. oil to coolant. compression to compression. or any of those can leak out the side of the engine.

Sometimes the leak is obvious when you look at the old gasket sometimes not. You didn't say it but can I assume you had all this work done you listed then had a failure? You didn't say if things were decked for flatness or at least checked.

There are quite a few threads about not using felpro gaskets. The choice around here is either a mopar gasket or a reusable Cometic.

Do some searches on the gasket choice and block and head flatness. Another search should be about head smoothness or RA number for the cut. A head cut like an old cast iron head will cause a gasket to fail. Some old time machinist just don't get how a cast iron block and aluminum head works. Mopar2ya (Wallace) from lonewolf performance has written a few on this.

Also if you had all this work done then failed how long did it take to fail?
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, bolted the rebuilt block and new head together, did about 20 miles of driving, checked the oil, no milkiness in coolant or oil, then checked the oil and coolant again at about 75 miles, MILK.

I dont know the RA of the block, but the block was decked. I dont know the RA of the head.

I will get a mopar head gasket and try again.

I bolted the head and block together myself following the procedure in the chrysler factory manual.
 

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I personally believe in a re-torque / torque check of head bolts after 3-5 heat cycles..

you may be surprised (but I wouldn't) to find a couple that needed 1/16-1/8 turn to bring back up to 90+ ; don't loosen them, just check each one in the proper sequence to make sure they hit at least 85-90 pounds (for 11 mm bolts)

and you will appreciate having a 1-piece valve cover since this job will only take about 20 min total ; you do have a 1-piece VC right ?

:)
 
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