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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i can't remember for the life of me what you have to modify on the distributer to allow it to turn backwards for the 2.4 motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
also here are some pics of my progress. i have all 4 brakes off a shelby daytona the 11'' if any one was wondering..



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah thats a dizzy adapter.

i don't know how the brakes are going to work yet, i used the master cylinder and proportioning valve from the shelby. i hope it works ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i've searched for a bit now i can't find any info any were?
it's probably right under my nose and didn't see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I searched a bit.. This is the closest I came to finding info..
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f48/86383-distributor-head-info.html#post674177
Just MegaSquirt the thing. You'll be happier with the results in the long run. :)
thanks man, i believe i found it. on turbodave's turbo neon 2.4 page.

i'd like to go megasquirt one day. but i'll see how it go's with a SMEC first i got one from FWD.

this has been one hell of a project. i hope to hell it runs and drives much less go's fast. i've got a heck of a lot of money and lots and lots of wife nagging time in to this car. i just hope she don't get it in the divorce. heheh j/k she loves me.
 

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Hey great work, your car looks nice, but the camera sucks.

If you have a good wideband and patience you can tune it real close(FWD has good experience with cals). Megasquirt would be better IMO or making your own cals(both need patience). Trust me calibrations sound easier/less wory if your somewhat new, but research and learning with the availability to get it spot on is better. Dont take this as a negative I love your work, keep it up!
 

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i can't remember for the life of me what you have to modify on the distributer to allow it to turn backwards for the 2.4 motor
couldn't you just reverse the plug wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey great work, your car looks nice, but the camera sucks.

If you have a good wideband and patience you can tune it real close(FWD has good experience with cals). Megasquirt would be better IMO or making your own cals(both need patience). Trust me calibrations sound easier/less wory if your somewhat new, but research and learning with the availability to get it spot on is better. Dont take this as a negative I love your work, keep it up!
i know what your saying, i am a bit intimidated by megasquirt . i have done some of my own tuning before on my turbo Grand Prix. i'm better off doing some thing when i got something to work with. if i mess something up i can put it back. i guess i'm intimidated by MS because you pretty much start from scratch. i'm sure i could do it i just don't have enough time i guess to mess with it now. i wish i could find software to tune on a chrysler EPROM, i have a 27c programer/emulator so tuning would be easy if i had software. i think you could do it with tunerpro R/T i would need a .xdf file to go with the .bin if any one knows where to get this info???
more less i need tuning software that i can edit the the eprom and save it as a .bin. i've looked and looked i can't find nothing on a chrysler. all the ford, GM, honda, nissan. you can stand though but no chrysler.
 

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Luckly you really wouldn't be starting from scratch with megasquirt on a 2.4L. There are a ton of people that could give you a good starting .msq file for your engine. It takes time to mess around with all the small stuff like cold starting and acceleration enrichment but to get a drivable car is easy. My set-up is pretty close to Unaclocker's so I took his msq, made small adjustments to fuel, dropped the spark table down for safty and it started my engine right up. Then I was able to drive around in another few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Luckly you really wouldn't be starting from scratch with megasquirt on a 2.4L. There are a ton of people that could give you a good starting .msq file for your engine. It takes time to mess around with all the small stuff like cold starting and acceleration enrichment but to get a drivable car is easy. My set-up is pretty close to Unaclocker's so I took his msq, made small adjustments to fuel, dropped the spark table down for safty and it started my engine right up. Then I was able to drive around in another few minutes.
yeah, i'd say MS is the way to go in the future. i was doing some brousing around and looking at a few things with it. but for right now i just want to get the car running i got a lot on me just getting the engine in and all the hard ware of the car were i want it to be. i just go to keep an eye on my wide band make sure i don't have a melt down. the only thing i see stoping me to get a MS working on my car right now is i had to grind the crank senser down to fit the intermeddiate shaft. i could get one to work i'd just have to make a custom conector. but a MS is goting to be a definite buy this summer.
 

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Nothing says sleeper like a dohnut ;)
 

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ya no one would see that coming =)
What was the original drivetrain??
 

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being a glht, probably a 2.2 T1
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well it was a half of one. o got it with the head in the trunk and no pistons and rods.
it had a a525 5 speed. all the bushings and ball joints brakes and suspension was all wore out the car has 200k mi on it. it stayed stock the whole time and ran around north GA it's entire life and according to carfax it only had 2 owners. it was 100% rust free. the paint was ruff though. it went a 99% body resto painted inside out with PPG base clear. wet sanded and buffed all new suspension brakes act.. it is a 99% brand new car all underneath the car was painted. it now has a fresh 2.4 turbo motor and brand new 31th 3 speed auto.



 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i need to take some really good detailed pics of it when it done and cleaned up, its all dusty now. plus i need to buff some more on it. it's kinda pointless to buff it perfect when your tuching it all over putting it all together.
 

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the SLH 4, 4 wheel 11" brakes on an L body aren't that tough to bolt on right. Use the master cylinder, pro valve, rear disks and backing plates, and complete front knuckle and strut. The get a coil over and use grade 8 washers to make up the difference between the Daytona strut and the Omni strut. Some have gone and cut down Daytona springs and used them, I wanted a higher rate anyway and something nicer. I have 325 lb Eibach coils 7" long with G body Konis up front. L body rear konis with 9" rear 250 lb springs. Ground control sells the coil over kit for the L body. Sweet looking car, nice job.
 
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