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So was driving the car a couple days ago and got on it a couple times after the car got up to temp. Once I got off my exit on the interstate and came to a stop, smoke was coming out of my exhaust like crazy at idle. Once the light finally turned green I could see it still in my mirror but not as bad. Hit another light and it was smoking quite a bit... Any how made it back home and parked it.

05 Neon SRT-4 with only 20k miles. AGP 50 trim .63 AR journal bearing turbo. Has around 10k miles on it or so. I run 5w-40 full synthetic. Prior ran 0w-40.

https://i.imgur.com/riGS6zT.mp4 Video of the white smoke

It smoked like this last year. I put a new PCV valve in and switched out checkvalves and that seemed to fix it. I also did a compression check. All were almost dead even. Low at 125 psi but it could be due to doing in the dead cold on a cold motor and I have a small battery. But it makes you wonder. Removed exhaust side of turbo and it was dry. Not caked in oil or anything. I could still smell oil burning every once in a while. Then that smell went away. I also put a new AGP oil drain tube at that time since the one that was on it was seeping and sweating like crazy.

Now fast forward to now, a full year later she be smokin' again..... So trying easy stuff first. Put a new PCV LINE on since my factory one had flat spot in it. (hard plastic line) Bypassed check valve and catch can so ran a 3/8'' line straight to intake manifold from PCV. PCV valve still looks intact and fine. Can still hear ball in there when you shake it..Idles fine. No CEL. Pulled all 4 plugs, all looked good. Oil looked clean no coolant smell. Check coolant. Still nice and clean. Started it up, once it got to operating temp it started to smoke again. :( No smoke in engine bay.

Me fingering my turbo haha: https://i.imgur.com/qU1aHsp.mp4

Seems like it has a lot of play. But not sure if that is normal on journal bearing turbos. No in and out play which is good. I contacted AGP and they said that seems a bit more then normal and asked if the blade was hitting the housing, it is not. But could be..very very close! I checked the turbo drain tube out again and took the part off on the turbo side and it didn't seem clogged or anything.

Whats next on the list?

Leakdown test?
Remove exhaust side of turbo again? Will that show if the bearings/seals are bad?
Valve seals, headgasket, Bad exhaust valve?

Thanks guys for any help. I want my car to be running great again and not smoking. Here are a couple picture of the car:


 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Do you have a vacuum gauge? If so, hook it up to the oil dip stick tube to see what kind of vacuum your crank case is seeing while your car is idling.
If your PCV system is not working, you won't see vacuum.
 

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Turbo is just about off the car at this point so can't do that test. :( I know when I had the intake off and while the car was idling I could feel suction on the breather port that is on the drivers side of the valve cover.
 

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Failing turbo is usually the result, not the cause. You need to figure what cause the turbo to fail before putting the new one on, otherwise there is a high chance the new one will fail soon.
 

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Failing turbo is usually the result, not the cause. You need to figure what cause the turbo to fail before putting the new one on, otherwise there is a high chance the new one will fail soon.
True a failing turbo could be a number of things. I never installed the turbo on my car. I bought the car over 2 years ago. I am going to have to ask the original owner but I think he put the turbo kit on at like 10k miles. It was a rebuilt turbo. It had a horrible tune on it when I bought it via SCT "canned" tune. (think 2008 turning options before DiabloSport) And the boost reference line for the FPR was t'd into the wrong area so I had to fix all that and get a proper email tune on it. Car was running 5w-30 full synthetic then I switched to 0w-40 since I always ran that in my srt-4's with good luck. Then I decided to switch to 5w-40 since I read of a lot of guys having good luck with that oil on their srt-4. I know journal bearing turbos are more susceptible to damage too. When I had my car on the dyno last year after a pull he turned the car off right away. :( I also have a seeping oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed.

Edit: Okay got more info. Turbo was brand new. Was installed Dec 2010. Has 11-13k miles on it.
 

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Make sure:

Oil feedline is unrestricted and supply enough oil to the turbo
Oil return has no clogged or restriction
PCV system is working
Exhaust system is not blockage or restriction
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry for the late response. But the issue was indeed the turbo.

Had the turbo rebuilt with all no seals and the exhaust wheel was replaced. Also replaced the feed line too. The old feed line was not bad.Just did it for piece of mind. New exhaust manifold gasket. Found out there was a hairline crack in my Kinetic log manifold. so bought a new AGP log manifold. The old 02 housing did not fit with the AGP manifold so I bought a new AGP 02 housing. which is quite a bit bigger. $$$. Also had to get a new WG dump tube made since the current one would not work. That was a headache trying to modify it...

My oil pan was seeping so I bought a brand new OEM oil pan and a Mopar oil pan gasket. While I had that off I cut the balance chain and removed it along with the plastic guides. New Mopar oil pickup tube gasket too since I had that out.

Have about 1k on the turbo so far. No smoking! I know to let it idle for a couple of minutes before shutting it off even if I did not get in boost. Removed the Hallman MBC and just running off the WG spring pressure which is around 18-19psi.

Here are some pictures of the process since we all love pictures!








^that wasn't fun getting that fixed. Towed it to a shop. They welded a nut to it and got it out!


 
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