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Yup...I have a van and a Pacifica AWD PTU as well as the rest of the Pacifica driveline to the rear.

To say it's a "bolt on" is misleading, but it's close. It does require machine work and cutting/welding.

There is absolutely no reason the system won't/can't work (as opposed to the old school thinking that it was too weak).
 

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Finding the AWD Caravan is like finding a purple unicorn now a days.
 

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Finding the AWD Caravan is like finding a purple unicorn now a days.
Aren't they all automatics as well?

If you did find one and had to do some welding, might as well just get a SRT-4 engine and make it RWD. SRAs aren't the best for handling and an AWD setup that is an automatic doesn't appeal as fun.
 

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You can adapt the AWD to the manual trannies. That's the point. Also, there are fitment issues when considering the different engines. I don't remember exactly what they are off hand, but I know it has to do with the PTU unit interfering with the block/oil pan on one.

AWD Caravans aren't as "unicorny" as you'd think...depending on where you are. I am fortunate to be in an area where right now, they are fairly common.
 

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Some people on this forum have more than one Caravan AWD setup/parts set aside. Maybe you can put out a request for someone to locate one for you. They're nearly as rare as hens teeth where I am. Only saw one, and that was 3 years ago.
 

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The 2016 dodge charger has an awd option with the hemi. !
Now your talking going from a sideways motor to a rear facing motor.

The awd caravans were nice because the transfer case was bolt on and replaced the half shaft. the only fabrication it needed I believe was the rear axle, exhaust, and floor pans which shouldn't be a big project.

people were more concerned with the durability than the installation.
 

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I can tell you from personal experience that the Chrysler AWD components are larger than ANY DSM ever dreamed of being, as well as any 3/S cars. The components are designed for a 3500+ pound vehicle, fully laden, AND towing with a torquey V6 (200-245ft-lb). Put those components in even a 3000# car and you are already WAY ahead of the game. Even lighter vehicles will put even less stress on the parts. Because of that, they can deal with quite a bit of abuse. I've seen videos of AWD vans and Pacifica's doing snow donuts and rough non-paved road stuff pretty well.

Now, I will say that I don't know anyone that has really shock loaded one of these systems, and they do use a flex/vibration dampening coupling on the multi-piece drive shaft, so the durability of that component is unknown. However, that can be overcome.

The other unknown is the viscous coupling. While technically it is possible to make the system locked so you don't have to worry about the coupler, I wouldn't suggest that for a street car unless you got the gearing *just right*. The system intentionally has a slight mismatch in the front and rear gear ratios (about 1-2% IIRC). What this does is induce a slippage in the viscous coupler that puts it on verge of "lock" (more like bind, but I could write and entire post on how they work) so that if the front tires do spin just slightly, it will pretty much instantaneously send more power to the back.

The 3000GT/Stealth use this same technique except the coupler is contained within the transmission. For our set-ups the coupler is external of the rear differential housing on vans. The Pacifica uses a slightly different set-up that is much more compact and the coupler is internal to that unit. I don't know if later vans got that set-up as well as I've not been around one long enough to poke my head under it.
 

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Yeah, I never understood why people said it would get trashed so easily. Have you people seen the way Caravans are treated?

The van is somewhere around 4000lbs. That means it's load on the transmission is cut by 25%, which I'm sure would equal out by you hooning on it a lot. It should be fine.

After I get the 3.8L swapped in my Daytona I'll see how much work it will take to get the AWD on it. Being there's already a driveshaft tunnel on them, it shouldn't be too much fab work.
 

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In my opinion the biggest hurdle is to clearance the K-frame for the PTU shaft and get the steering rack out of the way. Once that is done...it's just getting the rear driveline mounted.

The Pacifica PTU is very different from the van unit. The van unit places the output about 4" BELOW the CV axle center line. The Pacifica unit places the output shaft about 6" ABOVE the CV axle center line. The other difference is that the Pacifica unit does not protrude towards the engine block at all, thus there is more clearance between the engine and the unit.

Now, I have NOT tried to bolt the thing to a 2.2/2.5 block/tranny yet. So, I don't know about how the starter might be affected, which is my biggest concern. For keeping the engine in the stock mounting orientation I don't think that the raised output is that big of a deal, but I plan to rotate my whole driveline up front to a more vertical orientation for several reasons and this is going to put the output shaft flange at an angle that I'm not sure how it's going to affect the CV joint on the end of the driveshaft. If I decide to keep with this route for my 4-banger car I might have some more work to do.
 
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