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Just wanting to know if the stock vr4 injectors will fit on my duster 3.0 if so what is the psi rating an what not? Are they high/low impedance... anything someone can let me know :)
 

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What is a VR4?
My son is looking to change injectors along with a ported upper/lower intake on his 94 Duster 3.0L.
He was going to use the T-1 27PPH injectors.
 

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What is a VR4?
My son is looking to change injectors along with a ported upper/lower intake on his 94 Duster 3.0L.
He was going to use the T-1 27PPH injectors.
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4.

Those injectors might burn out the injector drivers in your son's ECU, as they are low impedance, and it uses high impedance injectors.
 

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Thats why I was curious.
Everything i read was the T-1 injectors were the correct upgrade...
Is that correct?
 

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For an early model 3.0, yes they will work. For a later model like your son's, they won't without a risk of damage to the ECU.

With just a ported intake, he really isn't going to need additional fuel.
 

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I am not trying to hijack anybodies thread but....
I opened a thread awhile ago looking for info for his car.
He needs/wants to pick up 1 second in ET so he can run 2 classes this coming race season.
He is a bracket racer, only needs to go faster so he can run "pro" and "street".
Pro has a 15.99 cut so he needs to be in the 15's in the heat of summer.
He is currently running 16.40 with exhaust upgrades, 52mm TB, 14 degrees BTDC ignition timing, heavy duty clutches in the A604, drag radials(car will not hook) poly mounts(helped with the rear end squat.
Changing to a manual trans is not an option, this car is also a DD and he does not want a stick.
He was going to start with a cold air intake, ported upper/lower intake and larger injectors.
I was told the 3.0L controller is emissions oriented so there is no additinal fuel available for increased airflow.
 

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There is enough fuel. I would add an adj. regulator and a wideband o2 sensor with logging capability then make some runs. Look over the logs and see where it is rich or lean, then adjust the pressure to fine tune it.

Otherwise, you could go with an aftermarket piggyback like the AEM FIC.

Does he have air shocks in the rear? They will help a bit on launch, as will balancing the front end by shimming the swaybar to even the weight across the front tires. Do the weighing with him in the car, just like it is set up to race.
 

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He wants to work on the engine first and see how the car reacts.
How will any of the above mods get him into the 15's?
 

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Not really, besides being a DD it is also a family car, his wife has a Ford Ranger so they use the Sundance when the whole family goes out, he has 3 kids.
 

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Can he remove all the sound deadener, then reinstall the interior?

To get where he wants to be with the constraints of it being a family DD he's gonna have to be creative.

It's gonna be engine, suspension, cutting weight, etc. He's going to have to do it all.
 

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Ported intake/plenum is a good choice. If he can get his hands on 1/2" intake spacers and an UDP that will help as well. What's the elevation like where you're racing? I had less done and could pull ~16.2/16.3 with the auto. I know it's no an option, but the 5-speed yielded me a 1 second drop in ET :dancing:
 

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We are at sea level and the manual swap is not even an option.
I also feel that the A604 is the lead anchor that will be holding him back but he is going to work with what he has without compromising the car as a family/dd auto trans car.
It will still be driven everyday so fuel economy and getting thru N.J state loaded emissions testing have to be maintained.
 

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small shot of nitrous? Like a 35 maybe? Keeps everthing else about the car the same for everyday but gives the extra power at the track.
 

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16.4 doesn't sound right. I ran a 15.8 in my 3.0 670 spirit with just a UDP, 2.5" cat back,52mm TB with a 3" cone filter, 1/2" plenum spacers and diamante cams. I had a few more mods in, but a spirit is a good 300lb heavier than a sundance. Launching was a breeze with the 670! brake torque it, realease the brake when the light turns green and hold on! it would spin them perfectly off the line. a 35 shot dropped me from a 15.8 to a 15.0

if you want some plenum spacers, I got an extra set here....
 

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Cars average is 16.40 @83mph.
Nitrous is also out of the question.
He is a "bracket" racer and the car runs consistant, nitrous is not consistant for bracket racing.
Besides, in N.J you need a license to purchase and carry the bottle, it has to mounted in the rear of the vehicle which means running lines from rear to front and you have to constantly monitor fuel pressure.
Me, regardless of the system I would not use the juice without fuel pressure cut offs.
All of that money can be used in other area's.
On top of all of that we are a family that believes in the "all throttle, no bottle".
He qualified for the NHRA Division 1 Bracket Finals last season in his rookie year so consistancy is a must.
He is already on the converter to hit the tree and changes rpm depending on how he and the car are reacting.
He is looking for inexpensive engine mods to get the most out of what he has.
 

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Also there is video of the car running in the lounge on page 4 titled "Naj coming out of retirement part 2".
If you can spot something the car is doing/not doing in the video we would be glad to hear about it.
 

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He needs/wants to pick up 1 second in ET so he can run 2 classes this coming race season.
He is a bracket racer, only needs to go faster so he can run "pro" and "street".
Pro has a 15.99 cut so he needs to be in the 15's in the heat of summer.
He is currently running 16.40 with exhaust upgrades, 52mm TB, 14 degrees BTDC ignition timing, heavy duty clutches in the A604, drag radials(car will not hook) poly mounts(helped with the rear end squat.
Changing to a manual trans is not an option, this car is also a DD and he does not want a stick.
He was going to start with a cold air intake, ported upper/lower intake and larger injectors.
I was told the 3.0L controller is emissions oriented so there is no additinal fuel available for increased airflow.
In addition to the ported upper and lower intake, I would add a cam and 58/60mm TB. The way I port the lower intake you gain ~2" of vacuum at idle. So you can run a more aggressive cam without the computer idling the car rich.

There is some fuel available for more airflow. The big issue comes when you reshape the volumetric efficiency curve. The computer struggles to comprehend flow gains in the higher RPM band.

Two ways to deal with that. Use something a piggy-back controller like the Greddy e-Manage to increase fueling at higher RPM. Or port (particularly the head) in such a way that it emphasize low-RPM flow.
 
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