i have an 89 2.2 5sp shelby daytona, and it wont start. i got power to all accessories except the radio(?), and the starter makes no noise. i just hear a single click. i checked the battery and its good. i thought it was the starter solenoid so i just changed the starter and it did nothing. i can push start it but who wants to do that everytime:bang head? i did check the fuses and just the lighter fuse was blown. maybe it the postive and negative leads? idk? thanks for any input.
wont start but has power? help!
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4,660 Posts
Check your battery cables - might be the ground cable to the head- or dirty connections.
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26,460 Posts
Check the starter relay on the left strut tower.
The BK wire is constant battery power
The YL/BK wire is switched ignition power, will only be powered in the start position
The BR/YL wire is ground thru the controller
The BR wire is the output to the starter.
If you are missing power at the BK wire check the fuseable links
If you are missing power at the BR/YL check for power out at the ignition switch.
Your radio is powered directly from the ignition switch on a BK wire thru fuse #9.
The BK wire is constant battery power
The YL/BK wire is switched ignition power, will only be powered in the start position
The BR/YL wire is ground thru the controller
The BR wire is the output to the starter.
If you are missing power at the BK wire check the fuseable links
If you are missing power at the BR/YL check for power out at the ignition switch.
Your radio is powered directly from the ignition switch on a BK wire thru fuse #9.
I`m having the same problem but the radio works[however I believe someone wired it wrong].However the Br wire which is the output to the starter looks like it was melted from the relay until it reaches the plug in right behind the battery.After there the wire looks fine.Car has 1 click,battery and alternator are good. I re-wrapped the melted wire and of course I knew it wouldn`t fix it but I wanted to rule it out. If anyone could help me out I`d really appreciate it because it`s a daily driver. Thanks Travis
I could just start buying parts for this but I`d really like to know the cause of this problem first.:bang head
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1,327 Posts
Don't you have a test-light or a VOM?
I do have a test light but what`s a VOM?
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646 Posts
i call it a dvom digital volt ohm meter. if you don't have one get one. test lights are great, but to be accurate you need a meter.
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VOM = Volt/Ohmmeter
Continuity is checking for a complete circuit using an ohmmeter. You check from one end of the circuit to the other end of the circuit with the connectors unplugged and power off. The circuit should read under 5 ohms, if the circuit is open the ohmmeter will read as if the meter is on and the leads are not connected.
To check for power at the relay connect the test light to batt - and probe the 2 power wires. 1 wire is a constant 12 volts from the battery, the other will only have 12 volts with the key in the "start" position.The test lamp will illuminate if power is present.
To check the ground connect your test light to batt + and probe the ground wire the test light should illuminate.
To check power output from the relay with the relay plugged in probe the output wire with the test lamp connected to batt - and turn the key to the start position, if the test lamp illuminates the relay and relay power/ground are ok and the problem is in the power wire to the starter or the starter itself.
Continuity is checking for a complete circuit using an ohmmeter. You check from one end of the circuit to the other end of the circuit with the connectors unplugged and power off. The circuit should read under 5 ohms, if the circuit is open the ohmmeter will read as if the meter is on and the leads are not connected.
To check for power at the relay connect the test light to batt - and probe the 2 power wires. 1 wire is a constant 12 volts from the battery, the other will only have 12 volts with the key in the "start" position.The test lamp will illuminate if power is present.
To check the ground connect your test light to batt + and probe the ground wire the test light should illuminate.
To check power output from the relay with the relay plugged in probe the output wire with the test lamp connected to batt - and turn the key to the start position, if the test lamp illuminates the relay and relay power/ground are ok and the problem is in the power wire to the starter or the starter itself.
I did this.The relay was bad.
I also bought new negative battery post because it wouldn`t tighten good.
Car fired right up after I put a new relay on.
3 seconds later smoke coming from the solid brown wire at the connector right behind the battery.The connector looked bad from being melted.I then replaced both connectors.
I also removed filter box and everything so I could keep an eye on the starter also.
My son fired it up and multiple big sparks come shooting out from around the starter.It then kept trying to crank even when key was pulled.I had to disconnect negative battery for the car to cut off.
I`m quessing now it`s the starter even though it cranked fine before and wasn`t making any strange sounds.
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2,028 Posts
yeah the starter wire is brown, and if its shorting then that would explain why its melted and the sparks. On my rewire I just threw that wire on the starter, then i would pop the new fuse for the starter as it was arching to the block, I had to rearrange the starter wire and insulate it so it worked OK. So I would check the wires at/near where they connect to the starter as this is most likely where the issue is.
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