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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I'm at my wit's end. I just did a semi-rebuild on my TII motor (replaced rings & bearings, but no machining). Prior to the rebuild, the motor was blowing up the dipstick and shooting oil everywhere despite trying 3 different PCV setups. Passed compression and leakdown tests.

So I decided to pull apart the motor. Cylinders have cross hatch despite having 18k miles on the motor. Replaced the stock TII Garrett with a T3/T4. Realized that I only have a 2.25" SV, but I was in a rush to try to get this motor back together for a race this weekend (not gonna happen now).

The problems now

#1: Overheating. Could be the new t-stat, or a radiator cap. Haven't checked it yet.

#2: Oil feed line to the turbo is leaking above the turbo, despite being a tight as I can get it with an open wrench. I would pull the WG to grant easier access, but I can't remove the WG without pulling the head due to a custom WG mounting bracket that quasi-interferes with the oil and coolant feed lines (see pic 1).:bang head

#3: Turbo only pushes 9 PSI. I know that the 2.25" SV is a restriction, but I don't think it would cause this. The rest of the exhaust is 3" mandrel bent through a high flow cat exiting in front of the rear wheel (3 bends total). One thought is that the cam is out of time, but I don't think it is (see pics 2 & 3). My only other thought is the fact that there is NO tension on the WG when it's installed. This could be a major issue to fix since I can't remove it without pulling the head (see pic 1) :bang head:bang head

#4: Some sort of internal noise. Could be head, could be short block. Haven't checked yet. :bang head:bang head:bang head

#5: Still blows up the F*ING DIPSTICK ON SHOOTS OIL EVERYWHERE:bang head:bang head:bang head:bang head


Sorry, this is mostly to vent, but does anyone have any ideas about these problems?



Cam timing with timing mark at 0* on flywheel

 

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#2: Oil feed line to the turbo is leaking above the turbo, despite being a tight as I can get it with an open wrench. I would pull the WG to grant easier access, but I can't remove the WG without pulling the head due to a custom WG mounting bracket that quasi-interferes with the oil and coolant feed lines (see pic 1).:bang head
http://www.eaa180.org/toolbox/34_crow_foot_wrench_tips.jpg

crawfoot wrench works great for that.

But you have more serious problems...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Already tried a crowsfoot (that's what I've always heard them called), and wouldn't fit. But it looked like this:

 

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When you replaced your rings....did you take a close look at your pistons? Everytime my turbo GLH was pushing the dip stick out I had at least one pistin with broken ring lands. You might be loosing boost into the motor and that blowby is lowering your boost and pushing oil out.....when mine did that I could drive at stock boost with no problems...when only one ring land was bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, the ring lands are good. Replaced the rings, cleaned the grooves. I'm pretty sure I would've seen a broken ring land ;)

Same valve cover. Air flows freely out the PCV port. Are you talking about installing another spring around the WG rod? Where do you get one?
 

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Same valve cover. Air flows freely out the PCV port. Are you talking about installing another spring around the WG rod? Where do you get one?
i used one for a carb car. and just looped it around the swing valve(where the rod hooks to). i got mine at advanced or any car parts store.
 

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glhman ... a little off topic but the oil feed line to the turbo looks pinched some between the fitting and that bolt.

As for the pressure in the crankcase only one thing can cause that. You didn't say if you deglazed the bores so the new rings would have the best chance of sealing. Right sized rings?

How are you venting the crankcase now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
turbomini: Are you using a throttle return spring?

puppet: Yes, the water feed line is a little pinched, but it still flows enough. I used a ball hone to scuff up the cylinder walls. Correct ring size (.50mm over), checked the gap on every ring, and they were all within spec.

Current pcv setup:

Valve cover to a T. One leg goes through a PCV valve to the intake manifold, and the other one goes to another PCV, a catch can, and then into the intake track before the turbo
 
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