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Yeah thats interesting. I always have an eye out for a 2.2/2.5 to arrive at the Pull a part near me. They charge so cheap it isn't even funny, 35 for a head. That way if my head gasket were to go and crack the head I wouldn't have to send it off and be stranded, I'd just get the used one shaved if need be and what not.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Little update, the tore down motor is still factory bore, I was worried because the guy I bought it from said he thinks it was rebuilt and may have been 0.40 over. Picked up an 88 TBI cam, working on lining up the head light lids, i have big issues with the way they line up to raise and lower. Next step I guess is dig alittle into cleaning up the engine bay electrical.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Nodda lil update, big change in plans due to change in life lol, putting it back together and getting her on the road to enjoy for the summer, determined the engine in it isn't in too bad of condition and with a tune up should be reliable, thought turbo shot and burning oil but seems like it's the vacuum lines & PCV & intake/intercooler piping needing a severe overhaul. Pics of the work soon.

Got her safety inspected!
 

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hey
I am a fellow '89 Daytona owner in Sackville, NB. My car is a daily driver that has been my labour of love putting it together. I am on the hunt for some trim and misc. parts if you have any (can send list). I also have a '90 Daytona parts car that has a few things left on it. email me if interested: [email protected]
thanks, Sandy
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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Will you consider post a schematic for you home made flasher for the tail lights.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Well she is on the road, not restored but it looks good enough to show, threw it back together and cleaned it up a bit, put half of the decal kit on and a coat of wax. Blast to drive with the tops out!! Pics when I get a chance, looking to hit some shows with it this summer since there are none of these around here
 

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just remember when driveing over 50mph - don't look up , or you'll be going back for your hat !

oh , and - when driveing past bogs , swamps thd lakes - LARGE dragon flys have a nasty habbit of being sucked into the car
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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thanks, Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Had some concerns about the SMEC not getting cooled due to use of a cone intake air filter, car came with the cone otherwise I would had left it stock, anyways... heat certainley reduces electronics life, therefore I need cooling.

It's simple, but I have seen many talk about or do this, this is my take that came out quite nicely.

Turbo 1 plastic piece that bolts on the throttle body, hose that goes with it and a PC style 12VDC electric fan, some screws, 2.5"ish hose clamps and wiring shit.

The bolt holes on the TB plastic line up perfectly with the fan, and the opening is just the right size. Mounted the fan to that, cut the intake hose just short enought to fit the TB plastic and go onto the computer mouth (lucky they are the same size). Mounted that and got the switched ignition 12VDC from the single blue wire on the Fan relay, and ground from the bolt that holds the fan/starter relays on.

I find this is actually effective. Why? Well after some driving and coming to a stop and idling, the fan is pulling hot air out of/through the SMEC. Best keep her cool!!





Keep in mind the engine bay is strictly functional :)
 

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Had some concerns about the SMEC not getting cooled due to use of a cone intake air filter, car came with the cone otherwise I would had left it stock, anyways... heat certainley reduces electronics life, therefore I need cooling.

It's simple, but I have seen many talk about or do this, this is my take that came out quite nicely.

Turbo 1 plastic piece that bolts on the throttle body, hose that goes with it and a PC style 12VDC electric fan, some screws, 2.5"ish hose clamps and wiring shit.

The bolt holes on the TB plastic line up perfectly with the fan, and the opening is just the right size. Mounted the fan to that, cut the intake hose just short enought to fit the TB plastic and go onto the computer mouth (lucky they are the same size). Mounted that and got the switched ignition 12VDC from the single blue wire on the Fan relay, and ground from the bolt that holds the fan/starter relays on.

I find this is actually effective. Why? Well after some driving and coming to a stop and idling, the fan is pulling hot air out of/through the SMEC. Best keep her cool!!





Keep in mind the engine bay is strictly functional :)
I did the same thing when I had installed a CAI on my Duster back when it had a 3.0L:thumb:
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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Great idea!
 

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while looking.. Ever considered just running the BOV through the computer? Always sucking cold freash air under vac from out side the engine compartment. Would also send the sound out the car too.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Had a custom shift knob made by my recently retired boss, 5 different exotic wood, can't remember a single one of them. The gorgeous custom "Daytona Shelby" Shift insert by DartGTS340



 

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Discussion Starter #77
Though it don't look like much, complete tear down and re-tape/new loom of the entire engine harness... alot of freaken work. Dug into the dash for wideband and boost gauge install as well. Also added/changed some things:

  • Relocated the air charge sensor to just before TB (eliminates intake heat-soak)
  • Wired in Brake Fluid Level Sensor (Voice Alert)
  • Wired in Coolant Level Sensor (Voice Alert)
  • Upgraded ground wires to one gage larger, soldered all terminals
  • Completely rebuilt harness to speed sensor/trans ground/reverse switch, etc.. disassembled connector pin by pin and new wiring from scratch.
  • New speed sensor, coolant sensor, oil pressure sender, reverse switch plugs
  • New battery posts
  • Added fused +12V from battery through firewall for planned Subwoofer addition
  • Added seperate grounds, soldered to one lug, to block and through firewall for wideband electronics. Connectors added for at each factory junction point.
  • Correctly wired in custom computer cooling fan with connectors, re-postioned to dump cold air onto K&N cone filter
  • Wideband cabling through firewall
  • Individual fused switched ignition +12V from back of fuse block (what a prick to get apart!).. for Wideband/Gauge/Sensor Heater and Boost Gauge/Boost Sensor










Liking the Innovate wideband gauge so far, looks great and looks to be really good quality materials. Also like the Prosport gauge, looks awesome and a cool startup, boost sensor looks cheap but we will see..
 

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Discussion Starter #79
How old is your head gasket?
Unknown.. but I really believe it is the original or at most replaced early in life, the motor is a 90-91 with probably near 150-200k km on it.

The head is coming off this spring to replace the tired Mitsu turbo with a rebuilt TII garrett, so she only has to make it 30km more to my father's garage (with a hoist.. oh so nice:D)
 
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