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Discussion Starter #81
My guess is 91 with that 91+ coil and bracket hanging off the T-stat housing lol
Cool, I didn't know what year they started using the coil on the t-housing.

It's siezed on there good, can't wait to get the fugly thing off of there this spring :dancing:
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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Jonathan would you please post a pic of the area behind your batter showing how you did the loom in that area. Mine is a cluster
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Its a spider and a loop for the fusible links. I had to make alot of additions for my customs setups but I think it looks reasonable. Ill take a pic sometime
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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I will await with baited breath.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Thanks guys

So been busy, rebuilt the T2 Garrett I had. Bought a basic kit from G pop shop and a new garrett center housing off ebay, total cost with shipping was $150 to rebuild. Went the extra mile and sandblasted and painted it. Real (cheap) men rebuild their own turbos lol!





Also pulled the trigger on the headliner. Only could find a decent hardtop headliner around here so I have decided to try and cut a t-top one out of it. Layed down the remains of an old t-top headliner and traced out and cut. Bought some padded fleece fabric from a local sewing store and a can of 3M super 77. Total cost $16. Haven't put it in yet so fingers crossed it fits ok.



 

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Discussion Starter #87
Also FINALLY found a decent set of factory Valeo driving lights from a member on here. However one was missing a mount and the other the bolt was snapped off (typical).

So looking at the factory mounting I decided to make my own mounts. Used 1 1/2 x 1/8in Aluminium flat bar and cut three pieces.

Center bar notched to recieve the tabs on the light housing. Sandwiched the three pieces with rivets and drilled two holes through the middle of the sandwich to insert screws and washers. These screws hold the light housing into the custom mount.

Then got some taper head 3/8 by 2in bolts and drilled the center of the custom mount for the bolt. Note the head is mounted flush with the aluminium sandwich. Fastened this down with a locknut and washer. Then just anouther set of washers, lock washer and nut to mount it on car.

It won't swivel up and down like from factory, but these mounts I made make the light point slightly down, which is where the factory mounts sieze anyway lol



 

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Discussion Starter #89
I'm going to skip the covers because I need them on all the time to "follow" daytime running lights, I hate having the pop up headlights on during the day.

However whats the word on those illuminated entry door handles doc? I kinda forgot about that.
 

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sorry , I know I'm beyond slow these days

I thought I knew where they were but haven't seen them for a while - seems like everytime I try to do somthing these days I get hollered for - to do something else (ie help dad with somthing)

I swear he does it on purpose as it happens so often
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Headliner is in, just need some more cut and trim for the t-top holes. Did notice some differences with the shape of the hardtop headliner (being cut for t-top), the map light section probably is supposed to drop down a but more, it has a small gap when it's in, and the sun visor clips are and inch off in location. Otherwise it is usable and looks good.

Also put in sound deadener for the rear and door speakers, put most of it out back so it don't sound like a tin rattle can. Sounds 500% better now!







 

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Discussion Starter #92
Headliner cleaned up and driving lights now working. Also had to fix the rear defroster and rear wiper, found a bad solder job for a replacement fusible link. Also put in the subwoofer, can see it in between the seats, nothing speical - 10in sub with 200W Amp

Speaking of fusible links, the near future plan for those annoying bastards is a fuse panel on the drivers side strut tower and get rid of fusible links for good!







 

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Discussion Starter #93
Alot of progress done this past weekend.

Repaired, cleaned up and semi-rebuilt a spare transmission to throw into the car (the on in it sounds sad, best take it out before something breaks).

Tore the motor down, swapped transmissions, rebuilt turbo installed and stainless turbo lines, solid poly bobble strut on transmission-to-frame, replaced a broked motor mount, new timing/power steering/alternator belts, new rad hoses/heater hoses and welded in the wideband O2 sensor bung and installed (and works!)





























 

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Discussion Starter #94
Not cleaned up, but together. I need to fix injector wiring issues that just popped up, wastegate solinoid wiring and replace fusible links with fuses. After that every square inch of wiring has been touched or replaced!



My own take on a custom vacuum block assembly. No EGR/Canister hooked up at the moment.

 

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keep up the great work, car looks amazing in all black! You clearly LOVE this car. What exactly is plumbed to your SMEC? Looks like a log car's TB inlet, where is that going? Edit: nevermind I had missed that page lol sweet idea
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Paid $10 for my set! I was tickled, I knew I could figure out something to moun them with and it worked out pretty good. A set like yoursis desired though!
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Ran the car on the dyno yesterday. Couldn't get it tuned right before I went on, was running STUPID RICH, AFR at WOT 9.8:1. Ran 127HP and 177ft-lbs at 13psi. Had to drop the boost a bit because I was seeing boost creep around 5000rpm.

None the less I made more torque than any other FWD and most RWD of the day which is satisfing considering I was running far less than ideal.

Running that rich is frusterating. My fuel pressure is 55psi, stock 2.5T injectors that don't leak. I think my Stage 2 Boost Button calibration has issues, i've notice the fan doesn't kick on (because I overheated idling for 15min, but fan and relay work - tested) and all kinds of odd bugs in addition to running rich.

Blew the shit out of my muffler too, was doing 4th gear pulls on the highway for some tuning and I guess with 9.8:1 fuel gets into the muffler - BOOM
 

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Have you had any luck burning your on chips yet? I would try the 89 mopar performance cal. I had a mopar performance computer in my shadow with a 2.5, small audi intercooler, stock 88 shelby lancer garrett turbo running 14psi
I ran best of 14.99 @ 93.68mph with a 2.4 60ft

I wish I had all my different setups dynoed, just have 1/4 mile numbers
 
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