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Discussion Starter #101
Was that with manual boost control to get 14psi? I am planning to throw in a Mopar Performance cal chip over the weekend and see what it does, already burned the chip just gotta tear it out.

I am running a Boost Button Stage 2 cal (Set-up 2.5T Intercooled @ 14psi) ran it last summer on the worn out mitsu and no wideband.

This year I have a rebuilt Garrett T3 and wideband, getting ratios of around 9.5:1 at WOT, which kills power and blows up mufflers.
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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Am I still on the list for a pic behind your battery
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Am I still on the list for a pic behind your battery
Well that is a bit of work in progress Dennis, I had to tear is all apart to fix a fusible link, and then found somebody fixed the fusible links in the past that had no knowledge of even how to wipe themselves. So I am planning to put in a fuse system. When that's done I will snap that picture!:thumb:

Louis, that was my plan to get up the the old radar station in those pictures, but the ruts in the road to get up the hill to it are too deep because it's in spring thaw, the pictures I just posted are the portion of paved road working it's way to the building. Hopefully i'll get there in the summer!
 

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Was that with manual boost control to get 14psi? I am planning to throw in a Mopar Performance cal chip over the weekend and see what it does, already burned the chip just gotta tear it out.

I am running a Boost Button Stage 2 cal (Set-up 2.5T Intercooled @ 14psi) ran it last summer on the worn out mitsu and no wideband.

This year I have a rebuilt Garrett T3 and wideband, getting ratios of around 9.5:1 at WOT, which kills power and blows up mufflers.
I'd be interested in knowing exactly the difference from the stock 88-89 smec and the MP one myself
I bought the MP one for the blue 86 when I built it - never had a stock smec for it so I have no real clue what improvement it made

the main reason I bought it was price - it was 150 vs 6-8 hun for a stock one
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Yes its what im running now, it leaned me out only to 10.5 and i dropped the fuel pressure to get me around 11. I dont notice much diff between cals because im still running manual boost coontrol
 

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Discussion Starter #114
12 degrees with a timing light. It does have more power being leaner and dropping fuel pressure, but I still need to lean it out a bit more, seems i'm still settling around 10.6 at WOT
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
Updates

Car parked for the winter, blew the trans one night but made it home, believe the intermediate shaft and bearing gave out by the sounds of it.

Tore apart a spare trans for rebuild. Found the the intermediate shaft in that one was worn around the bearing. Purchased one off Ed (onerippenturbo2), thank you! waiting for it in the mail now.

Rounded up all the bearings and seals for the rebuild, still need to grab a Chrome Moly steel bearing backing plate and waiting on 5th and 4-3 shift fork pads from the chryco dealer. Got the car torn apart and old trans out now, waiting on this rebuild.

Don't want to spend the money, but thinking about upgrading to a T2/T3 clutch kit or TU Staged Clutch kit, I do not like the aftermarket one I put in the car last year, it holds power but slips if you try to do anything sporty from a stand still, will not launch the car and it's really soft. Suggestions?

Also plan to replace the front most e-brake cable in hopes of fixing passenger e-brake lock up, everything else is brand new. Replacing the igniton cylinder hopefully this winter, cannot get it into accessories and all the digital equipment is annoying if you just want to sit and listen to tunes.

Also a NOS super 60 computer I got hold of is getting socketed and installed, in hopes of fixing my lack of computer controlled boost - everything else works in that system. May try a set of new injectors too, car ran super rich all the time before I parked it and all sensors tested fine..

ALSO gotta figure out if low oil pressure is my digital dash, sender or actual oil pressure. I thought it was high mileage but when I tore the motor apart last spring all 4 cylinders still had cross hatching on the cylinder walls, so I hope/assume it has new bearings as well.
 

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Had a custom shift knob made by my recently retired boss, 5 different exotic wood, can't remember a single one of them. The gorgeous custom "Daytona Shelby" Shift insert by DartGTS340



OMG!! :eek:mg: That is beautiful! I'm going to have to get ahold of Dart and see if he is willing to make me one of those Shift insert for mine. And that wood knob is classy.

This is one good looking car. It makes me regret tearing the 89 Shelby I had for parts on my 86Z. I want to find a decent running 89 sometime in the future to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Haha thanks man, the wood shift knob doesn't really match anything in the car, but if feels some nice on the hand and a lot of work was put into it for me - I like it!
 

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Awesome project! I love a post with a lot of pics, makes for a nice reference when you need it. Myself and I'm sure future TD'ers thank you. Keep up the great work!
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Thanks RGL10, missed this but means alot from a fellow member that I admire thier own work and ingenious!

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Okies, back at 'er.

Bought a load of bearings and seals, shift fork pads, a good intermediate shaft from onerippenturbo2 (thanks ed!), Chromoly transplate, and new Stage 2 Turbosunleashed clutch.

Spare transaxle is torn apart and old transaxle literally ready to pull off the motor in the car. Hit two roadblocks though... NO WAY WILL the trans pull from the motor, and NO WAY WILL the top koyo bearing pull off my old intermediate shaft.. several hours spend on each and getting annoyed a bit!




 

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Nice and organized, as for the bearing have you tried a bit of heat, or cracking the puller with a hammer? You could also cut it off with a small 3 inch cut off tool, or dremel, just don't cut all the way through the shaft and split it with a cold chisel

It's looking good so far :thumb:
 
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