Okay, here are the details. It's a 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 2.2 5-speed. It was a runner, driving around town, until the transmission died in a SPECTACULAR way. (It's an A525. It was going to happen.) The engine seemed to be just fine. It cranks normally and sounds good right now. It doesn't fire off, but I haven't diagnosed that at all. It gets fuel, compression, so it's going to be something simple. The body is in quite good shape! It has the analog cluster, new tires, and hardly any rust.

 

Known problems / Issues:

• Transmission is shattered. Pieces of it shot out.
• Rust around sunroof - Repair in progress. Partial repair done.
• Rotten seal around sunroof - Ordered
• Rust along bottom of rear hatch
• Rust on one spot of the driver's floor board
• Weird "ground wire". (Someone used a fuse as a ground? Or... uh...) - Turns out there were a few bad contacts, as is to be expected
• No start (this should be simple) - Was a bad (brand new) fuel pump
• Speakers were replaced and don't appear to fit properly - Very good fit AND sound now from some Infinity Reference speakers!
• Right rear tire valve stem leaks
• General fit of door panels
• Missing rubber on driver's door
• Rubber on passenger's door almost off
• Rotten window swiper strips
• Missing rear wiper
• Missing rear wiper grommet
• New gas riders on the driver's side shocks...not on the passenger's side
• PCV valve adapter rotten (surprise!) - Irrelevant, since a T2 swap was done
• Remote start and self-driving feature not working
• Seats are torn to heck
• Seats were terrible when they were new - I believe a new mounting system needs to be fabricated
• Fuel Pump not running (Engine runs with throttle body cleaner sprayed in throttle)
• Passenger window does not go up
• Door locks try but fail to move
• Parking brake apparently has no spring
• Fallen Headliner - New soft gray headliner fabric applied, not a perfect fit
• Speedo, Tach, and possibly other gauges are in random places - Possible solution in progress
• No Power Loss Light
• Broken Fuse Block
• LM flops around inside enclosure - Ordered a GLHS logic module
• Mystery wires under cowl - No longer (-:
• No AC - Just needed a charge o-:

More to add as I find it. I have a lot of pictures, but I didn't want to spam the first posts of the project log.

 

The transmission problem is obviously the first thing to figure out. The engine is fine. I'm certain. The gentleman from whom I purchased this car is offering another compatible transmission, which I think is either an A520 or an A525. I'm not completely sure. Here's the thing... I have FOUR A568's! I also have subframes, axles, hubs, etc etc. I could convert the whole car to the larger drivetrain, which in the long run might be smarter anyway. I was in two very close-call accidents with my '85, because the brakes just lock and don't quit.

The big question is....am I running a 6-bolt or an 8-bolt crank? Now, I know it's an '86, and Chysler switched to 8 bolt for '86, but my Laser is a December 1985 baby. If it's an 8-bolt, can I simply put the large pressure plate from the A568 onto it and run, or is that more than the crank was designed to take? I think (though I'm not sure) that the A568 takes a larger axle spline than the A525. Can I simply move the differential over, assuming it hasn't shredded itself?

To be completely honest, the red pattern on the Spirit R/T wheels would look incredible on this car. I think the Laser is one classy ride! But the R/T wheels just look more like they were supposed to go on this car style.

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This car is getting a fairly thorough refurb. I love my New Yorker, but I'm going to be finding any and every excuse to drive the Laser, so I'm going over every inch that I can reach. <3

 

I don’t think the it matters what flywheel you have your pressure plate will bolt to it, the difference in the 91+a-568 to the a-520 is the clutch disk spline. The axles should be the same size too.
The a-520 transmission is plenty stout as long as it’s in good condition, obviously yours isn’t, but the good thing about them is the 3:50 final drive as a posed to the 3:85 final of the a-568, this difference is an issue in highly modified high horsepower cars.
No parts interchange between the a-520 and a-568 besides maybe the diff bearings.

 

You're right...and apparently I misread. It's an A525. o: I gotta correct my post

 

As Derek mentioned, the flywheel/ PP shouldn't be an issue, just gotta run the correct disc spline to match year of trans.

Far as I know, the 86 takes the Older small splined axles. So if you're going to 520/523/568 you will need to matching axles as well.

For your application the 3:85 FD would be the best IMHO. I know many experimented with ratio's going all the way backwards to 3:05, but the 3:85 are what I mostly stuck with and no issues.

Having said that, whatever trans drops in your lap, as the FD is the least of your concerns.

 

Now that I'm looking at more correct information... 🤦‍♂️ The A525 was in my first and second Laser and broke itself around the differential both times. It has a 3.56:1 final drive ratio, and indeed the A568 raises it to 3.85:1. (1st is 3.29:1 versus 3.0:1. Will the 10% difference matter to me in daily driving? Hmm, probably not. These motors have good torque. Less rowing.)

I've got the entire 91 R/T's (except the engines, of course). I was under the impression that the hub-end of the larger axles is also larger and necessitates a hub swap. I'm fine with that, if it does, especially since I need to change the shocks still anyway.

 

Your thinking backwards on the gearing btw
3:85 final is lower (speed) gearing than the 3:56 final = more rowing

 

The 3:85 final is going to just make the rpm’s a little bit higher on the highway, but should increase the acceleration a bit. Since it’s a 2.2 that’s probably just fine anyways, the 2.5 just is a lower rpm higher torque engine and it’s what I’m used to, my 92 shadow has the a-523 3:77 final which is a nice in between gearing.

 

Your hub ends are fine, they remained constant through the entire TD run.

3:85 FD = greater mechanical advantage = better acceleration as long as traction is had.

Now it seems to me that when switching between the 520 and 555 there was a noticeable difference in rpm at hwy speeds.

IMS they changed something it the later 568 to compensate for this and I seem to remember the 568 being lower rpm than the 555 at hwy cruising.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Looking at the gear ratios they should be exactly the same in 5th the A-555 and A-568. The 92-93 A-568 appears to have a very low 1st gear though, my 92 Daytona has the A-568 but I never drove it was/is a parts car, a rare 2.5 T1 high torque iroc model.

 

Right. Sorry, I mean less rowing if I stayed with the A525. All of my manny tranny TD's have been A568's with the exception of my very first car, so that's what I'm used to.

It looks like if I swap the R/T rims and tires (195/60R15's to 205/60R15's), I'll get about 5% more width and about 2% more circumference. Of course, 2% doesn't make up for the difference in ratio, but the extra grip probably does. I think A568 + 205/60R15's is the way to go. I had to make a very, very small cut on my New Yorker to get those same rims and tires to fit, and it originally came with 14's.

My 85 New Yorker is what's throwing off my perception of what's possible to change. It's a turbo car that came with 4-lugs and small hubs. Every time someone says "All TD's came with such-and-such", I forget that I have one of the weird ones. (It was also equipped with HD rods, what was a bit unusual.)

The Unique New Yorker starts now, so it's just a matter of time to get the Laser in for surgery.

 

Figured out the no-start. The new AutoZone fuel pump is dead. This car made it about 30 miles on that pump. That's a new personal record for Spectra!

 

I have 2 working in tank pumps the N/A and a Turbo pump if interested and the gas tank and straps. You would need new socks for either. PM me if interested. Replaced my tank (84 Daytona 2.2l TBI with a 5 gal. Fuel Cell in 2021.)

 

Cool! I think I have two good Delphi pumps. I'm pretty sure they're completely compatible, but if not I'll check back with you. I'm expecting rain to absolutely dump non-stop in my neck of the woods, and the car is not in the garage, so unfortunately it might be a while before I can lower my tank and pull the pump.

 

Usually it comes out no jacking up or dropping tank. Did my 89 Shelby in 15 minutes with only a flathead and a rock.
I have some OEM walbro pumps all metal gears. Sadly all TBI...

 

Yeah, it's not bad. I've always been able to just lower it a bit. I've got the extremely powerful Ryobi impact wrench that will knock out even the rustiest of hardware. The dead pump is new, so the rings should just slide right apart. Fortunately I've got a Delphi to put in there. I swear those pumps have testicles. When I swapped the one in the boosted Altima, I did a pinch test at idle, and it instantly pegged the meter at 200 PSI and exploded the rubber hose inside the gas tank. I don't mean that it popped off of the metal line. I mean that the rubber line popped like a dissected aorta!

If all goes well, I hope to push the Laser into the garage this week. One thing I'd kinda like to get a head start on is the windows. The driver's side goes up and down slowly. The passenger's side goes down, but it only goes up with some forward and backward rocking. I seem to recall my 85 Laser doing that, and it was a problem with the window tilting during travel. I can pre-emptively buy motor rebuilds and regulator tape, but neither seems right. Anyone have this same problem and suggest a likely part? I'll order it now so it's in when the car's in the bay.

Oh, and I seem to have ignited both the "80's car" and the "stick shift" flame for a young girl in town. It's nice to see a new generation appreciating when design was done by human beings.

 

The New Yorker is parked, and I have many very urgent, pressing matters that demand my attention. So obviously I shirked my duties and re-prioritized the Laser into the garage! :-D My plan was to replace the transmission and fuel pump. That should make it drive. There's FAR more left to do, but I also want it to be able to move around on its own.

Taking the transmission out is moving really quickly! In about an hour's time, I have it mostly knocked out.

 

That Ryobi impact is incredible. I've never used any impact wrench so powerful! For the price, get one! It's a dream to use.

The clutch arm was simply bending and splitting when I tried to push it up to unlatch the clutch cable, so I just lopped the end off of the clutch arm. Looks like the oil return has probably been leaking for some time. Quite a lot is different in the suspension between the left and right. So far I've found not one, not two, but FIVE different lug nuts! :-D

The pictures might not make it evident, but this car is surprisingly clean. The engine bay is very dry and unmolested. I should have a spare small starter to swap in while I'm in there.

I was planning to swap the rims and tires between the New Yorker and the Laser. I don't care for the McDonald's theme going on with the New Yorker, and I think the Laser's wheels would look really classy on it. Likewise, the red and chrome from the New Yorker (Spirit R/T) wheels ought to work really nicely with the black and red stripes on the Laser. However, maybe it's just my imagination, but the wheel well on the Laser feels more narrow.... Hmm, guess we'll see. This shouldn't take long at all.

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In general, I'm planning to restore this car as nicely as I can, not juice the snot out of it. However, I really like the idea of converting to blow-through and putting an intercooler. I could get that T2 radiator repaired, and it should be a cake walk and still look very proper. The only thing is, I have a calibration on an 85 LM. If I remember correctly, the only difference between the 85 and 86 LM is the HEI. If that's the case, perhaps I could just swap in the 85 distributor and run the 85 LM. That's all for a later date anyway. I'm just thinking...

 

Brushless ryobi?

 

Yep, this monster.

ONE+ 18V Brushless Cordless 4-Mode 1/2 in. High Torque Impact Wrench Kit with 4.0 Battery and Charger

I knocked the crank pulley off of a VQ40 with it without locking the motor. (It didn't even have spark plugs.)

I had an axle from the Shadow laying on the ground. It was easier to take the hub off than to take the axle nut off. This Ryobi took the axle nut off of the axle while it was just laying on the ground with nothing holding it!

I'm telling you, this thing is from the planet Krypton. Ryobi makes cheap tools. This one should not exist.

 

Nice, the high torque model. I bought a mid torque ryobi 1/2in impact a few years ago works great way better than dragging an air hose around, only issues I have had with it was it doesn’t like the cold would stop working when It was -10c outside not sure if it was a battery issues or the tool. Anyways great tool for the price, hard to beat that.

 

https://www.turbododge.com/threads/beautiful-84-daytona-what-do-i-steal.1260536/#post-4558926

Ya could get in touch with this guy and see if he would pull the intake, intercooler and lm for ya.

 

I'm embarrassed by the number of intakes, throttle bodies, sensors, intercoolers, wire harness adapters, and other necessary parts I already have. /-: I'm just on the fence about whether I should or if the 1986 Chrysler Laser XT ought to stay a T1 log style.

 

Im also embarrassed this is above the fridge parts pile 😆

 

And grats on 666 posts, James. 😂

 

Lol I didn't even notice the post count 🤟
Also since yours is an 86 you won't need that lm, it wouldn't work

 

Sorry, I think I forgot to mention a critical detail. The reason I was considering doing a swap to the 85 is that it's a stage 3 calibration from FWD. I suppose I could just order the ROM from FWD and solder it myself. I'm happy with most everything I've gotten from them, but turnaround time can be rather extreme.

 

Yeah I figured as much. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go with it.

 

@d_snook6 Unfortunately, the high torque one is a little more particular about battery voltage. They make a "high output" battery, which is actually not any more power, but it maintains a more consistent voltage in cold weather. If you see a deal, I'd add the high torque model. I burned out my medium torque one building a radio tower, which is what prompted me to get the big one.

 

Congrats on you Laser project. After you get the transmission and engine in order then you will be tackling other parts of your car. Here is a list of common problems and solutions I found while restoring our cars that may help you: https://www.turbododge.com/threads/...utions-for-the-1987-dodge-daytona-shelby-z-and-possibly-others.1259491/#replies