The primary resistance specs for the oil filled canister coil are 1.33 - 1.55 ohms.
If you use a coil with the incorrect primary resistance you will...
Resistance Too Low - Overheat the coil and possibly damage the HEP/Controller
Resistance Too High - You will not get the proper voltage/amperage saturation in the primary circuit which will lead to a loss of KV at the plugs under load conditions such as acceleration/WOT.
You can correct low primary resistance using an external ballast resistor in the + coil circuit.
If you are using a universal coil you also need to have the correct Secondary Resistance.
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Remember, Electricity is extremely lazy, it will always look for the easiest path to ground
Electrical flow (amperage) is based on the voltage (pressure differential) needed to produce enough amperage to flow from the coil secondary, to the cap, cap to rotor, rotor to cap and through the ignition wires to ground (spark plug), the amount of voltage needed depends on the resistance in the circuit.
Normal KV requirements at idle/no load cruise are 10-15 KV if all components are functioning as intended, under acceleration/load the KV requirement will increase possibly up to 30+ KV.
The ignition coil is not going to produce any more voltage than is needed to have current flow and jump the gap at the spark plug. (ground)
Replacing the coil with an aftermarket "performance coil" will not increase performance or give you a "hotter spark" unless...
1)Your OE coil is faulty and causing problems
2)You are running excessive boost and your KV requirements under extreme load surpass 40 KV.
I originally installed the Accel Coil back in 93 because I thought it would increase performance even though I knew better (but I was younger and dumber).
Turns out the Accel coil is very good quality so it was not money wasted, well sort of, but that's another story.
