The day of pickup, Rod was sad, but I assured him of my plans, and to keep her. Also was a stack of paperwork from over the years, and full service manual set for the Rampage. Upon startup there was billowing clouds of smoke, right along with my wife looking at me with the "What the **** did you just buy" eyes. I smiled, and says, you will love this car when it is done.

There are several small details that I did not notice until getting her home. This is a '84 Rampage, but '84 Charger / Rampage had the 4 headlights! At first I thought it was the SC nose, but the grill slots tell a different story. I am guessing this is a '83 nose, as it is red on the backside. I think it is far better than the 4 headlights, but not as pretty as the SC single slot grille. The conversion came from a '86 T1 car, Rod told me a SC, but was unsure of the year. It has the short, dual pickup distributor, so it is definitely a '86 motor/trans.

Looking closely at the drivetrain, it has the unequal length shafts found on original Rampages, but the intermediate shaft bracket was still on the block.

Also the LM module was just laying on the passenger floor, Rod saying it has always been that way. Seems this conversion was thrown together pretty quickly, w/out alot of forethought.

Getting it in the garage I spent several hours inspecting over the car, and started a list.

1. Tires
2. Brakes, rotors, calipers, etc
3. Struts / rear shocks
4. Control arms / bushings / ball joints
5. Tie rods
6. Battery
7. Belts / hoses
8. Lights / bulbs
9. Radio / speakers
10. Engine gaskets / transmission seals
11. Full fluids change
12. Interior carpet
13. Cap / Rotor / Wires
14. Motor/trans mounts
15. Wire harness repair
16. Vacuum line damage
17. All new a/c system as it had been loosened from compressor and condenser

Some of the items that were also INOP:

1. Heater/Air control face was busted
2. Tach / Temp / Voltage was inop
3. LM module was laying on passenger floor
4. A/C was unbolted from compressor and condenser
5. Wire damage to Power Module

There was definitely alot of work just to make it road worthy.

 

Started out first by starting to clean her up. Years of leaking gaskets, road grime, etc had piled up thick on everything under the hood, and it was baked on, hard. Hours and hours of power washing, couple gallons of Simple Green was starting to put a dent in the grime and dirt.

Also started tearing her down, removing front suspension, radiator, battery, etc; also continually cleaning along the way.

List of parts were ordered:

• Front control arms / ball joints
• Tie rods - inner and outer w/ boots
• Koni struts / Koni rear shocks
• Cap / rotor / wires / plugs
• Engine sensors / temp / oil press
• Tstat and hoses
• Engine / transmission gaskets / seals
• Brakes / rotors / pads
• Interior carpet

As repairs are going on, I noticed the exhaust did not seem right. During the conversion, they did not bother replacing the exhaust, still using the original 2", and it hung down weird. I cut the pipe behind the cat and removed it from the turbo flange. Several issues I found, the flange for the NA cars are very different from the turbo, and it fit together like a saddle on sow. Another thing to replace - need new full exhaust. I decided to peer into the exhaust and check on the condition of the cat. I was floored - it was half melted shut!

I did not have the 💲 💲 for a full exhaust yet, so I cut that section out and filled it in with a pipe and better aligned the exhaust to the turbo.

Also there was alot of damaged wiring near the power module / battery. Upon removing the battery I found a mess under the support. At some time the battery either was damaged and leaked/ or there was a collision in the front corner.

It was time to do some gaskets on the engine, and under the valvetrain will always tell you the rest of story with the engine. Taking the cover off, i was not surprised at what I found, but relieved to see the valvetrain in average condition. Yes, definitely some wear, but considering the mileage and age....

Noticing all of the current issues with the car, I had a suspicion of the clutch/flywheel, that it needed a closer inspection. I did not have a engine hoist, nor did I have the engine support to go over the engine. To hold the engine in place I found a 2 x 6, spread it across the fenders, and used a strap hooked into the t/stat housing to hold the engine. Pulling the transmission out, what I found did not surprise me with all of the other things I found on the car...

Along with everything else, an new flywheel/clutch was installed.

Getting everything back together, new parts, wiring repairs, Reba was almost becoming road worthy!

One big issue, she was still pretty smoky, and had an idle issue, some things to work out...

 

Here is a list of some of the parts I have ordered as a updated reference:

• ACDelco 18K98 Front Disc Brake Caliper Bolt
• Standard Motor Products CH307T Distributor Rotor
• Standard Motor Products CH-408T Cap
• Standard Motor Products 27454 Spark Plug Wire
• Dorman 521-197 and 521-198 Control Arms
• Energy Suspension 37685FB Bushings
• KYB 234001 Strut for Front
• KYB KG5546 Shocks for Rear
• Stant 10331 Cap
• Gates TCK071Timing Belt Kit
• Dorman 118-301 Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushings
• Power Torque Clutch Kit - K0066-07

 

Tires were another issue for Reba, weather checked, I think over 6 years old, she needed new shoes. Also the clear coat on the wheels was peeling, were stained. I had a 4" orbital sander, and went to work sanding down the wheels. Starting with a 40 grit, working my way down to 220, I ended up with a satin type finish, similar to when they came. Also I thought the 195 looked a bit short, and decided to go with a 225 tire. Yes, they do rub in tight situations.

 

I've had my wife give me that same look. I bought a convertible LeBaron with shattered pistons and a top that wouldn't go down, a Shadow with swiss cheese for body panels, and a New Yorker that took me a month to get to start. In the end, she has fallen in love with all three, and all of these cars are older than she is! On the one hand, Carroll Shelby intended us to have FUN with these cars. On the other hand, when they're restored to run the way they were when they were new, they're continuously delightful to drive day after day after day. I'm looking forward to seeing how this project comes along and to hearing that your wife has come over to the TD side.

 

Read about your Shadow, . I had two in late '90's; a '92 convertible non turbo and a '93 w/ 3.0 - 5 speed. Buddy I sold the '93 to still has it, still in good condition. So far, the wife is coming around. Only way I could get her to ride in the car was a month ago I had to pick her up from the airport, which is an hour away. I never told her what I was driving, and when she came out....

 

Another issue was the electric fan, there was not one when I got Reba. Luckily I had a electric fan from when I did my electric fan conversion on my Wrangler. It now has a LS in it, so the fan was gathering dust. Surprisingly, it was almost a perfect fit for the radiator.

As with most of these TD's the vacuum lines were all crusty. I have seen many replace with vacuum rail, but I am too cheap. There was one piece I was able to salvage, the 4 way splitter. I reused that, went to auto parts store, and got hose that fit the nipples.

I wanted to protect the bed, and have always liked using horse mat. I went to TSC, bought two 4' x 3' sheets, total cost $65. I cut to trim, and now I can toss stuff, and not worry about dents.

 

And to clarify, YES, this is a Rampage with 🔥🔥

 

Mike,
It does look amazing clean after countless hours of your cleaning. Considering all the sitting this thing did and looking at the clutch disk and PP, your smoke issue could be some stuck rings. It happens plenty and esp. when someone has a leaking headgasket. They park the car and let it sit. Not wise having a cylinder or two with plenty of moisture from a weeping headgasket. I would consider filling the cylinders up with some Marvel or Seafoam and letting them soak a while, and see if that fixes things. I'd leave the plugs out to insure not hydro-locking the engine. What do you have to lose, right? I've brought back several cars that had been sitting for 25+ years, with excellent results.
Have you taken a compression readings of cylinders or looked at condition of plugs yet? Leak down test would be very telling.

 

When I got it I immediately changed oil, used 10-30 added some Seafoam to oil. Run the car 600 to 700 miles. Was actually not smoking on startup and running and idling. Changed oil last week at 600 to 700 miles on first oil change with Seafoam. Went for a drive yesterday and started smoking like video yesterday. Drove around town, did several long 2, 3, 4th gear pulls at 12-14 boost, get everything hot, came back home and no smoke. Did not add seafoam at this oil change

Compression test did 3 weeks ago, engine normal temp, 110 to 115 on all cylinders. Plugs look pretty good, little black, maybe rich or bit of oil.

Have not done leakdown. Figured it needs a rebuild why bother.

Odometer when I got it said 05556, rolled over, twice. Previous never did anything with motor. I am sure valve seals are like everything else, hard, cracked, broken. I am sure there is a ton of carbon around rings, that is not coming out. When I got the LS for my Jeep, the rings were stuck in the pistons, stuck compressed. They were never going to loosen up, figure this is same way.

 

Did a leakdown test, Cylinder 2 is dead. All of cylinders I can hear leaking by the rings. Readings are below.

Cylinder 1 - Set at 20 psi / Reading 15 psi
Cylinder 2 - Set at 20psi / Reading 0 psi
Cylinder 3 - Set at 20psi / Reading 15 psi
Cylinder 4 - Set at 20 psi / Reading 15 psi

Spark plugs were installed 600 miles ago:

Cylinder 1:

Cylinder 2:

Cylinder 3:

Cylinder 4:

In a feeble attempt to restore #2, I have put in a bit of ATF. Going to let it sit for 24 and see what happens.

 

When I got Reba, the Tacho was INOP. Pulled the cluster out and looked at the connections and the piggyback board. Everything looked normal. I then checked for signal at the round connector and I had 2.5 VAC, so issue had to be with the board. About a month ago I had the heat on, and it was pretty warm in the car, and momentarily the Tacho came to life. This indicated I had overlooked something on the board, so last week I took cluster out again, and inspected the Tacho board with a magnifying glass. To my surprise, all of the solder joints had cracked.

Got my solder gun out and reheated the connections, works like new!

 

Today I said, **** It! Pulled the head today to see what I really had. It did not surprise me with everything else mechanical I found. Surprised it ran on all 4, so here is a picture show of what I found, good times ahead......

Cylinder #2, something had a good time and left a mess......

Turbo, lots of carbon, and was wet on the inside yet.

Cylinder head overview...

Just a couple of questions for any experts that read this thread:

1. What could enter the cylinder, have a little party and leave? Anyone ever experience this?
2. The carbon in the turbo, what does that indicate?

 

How's that cylinder wall look? Does it have evidence of scarring on the walls, or is it only on the face of the piston?

 

How's that cylinder wall look? Does it have evidence of scarring on the walls, or is it only on the face of the piston?

No damage to walls. Just normal ring ridge.

 

Might be detonation then, but I don't know why it would be happening to just that one cylinder. Example detonation damage looks similar:

Source - Detonation vs Pre-Ignition

I know it's a PITA, but I suggest pushing that piston out and seeing if your ring lands have cracked off. You might need to swap that piston top and reassemble (and find out what caused just that one cylinder to ping).

 

Might be detonation then, but I don't know why it would be happening to just that one cylinder. Example detonation damage looks similar:

Source - Detonation vs Pre-Ignition

I know it's a PITA, but I suggest pushing that piston out and seeing if your ring lands have cracked off. You might need to swap that piston top and reassemble (and find out what caused just that one cylinder to ping).

I think you are correct. This cylinder had a ton of carbon buildup, and that buildup can cause hot spots leading to detonation.

At this point with how head, turbo, pistons Reba is going to get major overhaul.

 

Different intakes had different flow asymmetry. Do you think it was getting a bad flow to that cylinder? I don't know if that would cause it to detonate, though... Hopefully your piston is good, but it doesn't really look like there is any other show-stopping damage from what I can tell.

 

My opinion is the car ran lean at some point and nuked a spark plug. The porcelain was bouncing around in the cylinder until it found the exhaust valve to exit. I've seen that damage before, many times. That was foreign material not detonation. Oh, it might have been detonating too, but that is definitely foreign material that got in that cylinder that caused that damage.
The oil film in the turbo elbow (at the PCV nipple vacuum source) is normal. However there is a lot of oil in the rest of the turbo. Probably the intake is saturated too. If you take off the compressor cover and look at the compressor wheel, you can look for radial oil spinning outward (like a spin-o-painting). If you see that, then the carbon seal is failed in the turbo. When that happens, you've got a smoker.
Piston might be okay, but if it were me, I'd be pullin that #2 to make sure rings lands are still okay. What I would do is clean the piston real good so you can visually check for hairline crack in the bottom of the crown and ring lands. The piston probably looks worse than it is. By pullin the piston you can also check on the rod bearing on that cylinder. Detonation can do a number on rod bearings. On the 2.2 piston, the top ring is actually pretty far down from the crown. Also check to make sure rings are free and not seized to the ring lands.

 

Was in the local salvage yard a month ago, and spied some parts I wanted for Reba. Since Reba is down, I pulled the trigger on the second part of Reba. Wanna take a guess on these parts come off of?

 

So it looks like the the front will pretty much bolt up as other builds have confirmed. These are also the 13" rotors, same as a SRT4, a 15" wheel will not fit over the calipers. Will need to shop for 16" or 17" wheels. The rear spindle assembly from the PT is completely different than the Rampage. Not really an issue, as I have the full rear assy from the PT. I can just measure the width of the Rampage, cut/make adjustments to one side of the PT, and reweld the assy on one side. Then cut everything off the axle, and fab up a couple of leaf spring perches similar to the Rampage and bolt it up. Some simple fab work will get the PT in the Rampage, and have some awesome braking power.

I am also looking at a 2.4 Turbo motor from the same PT, just not sure on a few things.

• Motor has 103.000 miles, but is low on compression. They have not pulled it, and it was not on their list to sell. Not sure if it is a risk I should take
• PT has a automatic ECU, not sure if it can be re-flashed to a manual
• It seems there is a way to delete the SKIM, not sure who can do that and flash a tune to what I would like
• Motor mounts - I think FWD has mounts for sale
• Intake will need shortening, I have read a Gen1 Neon will work and clear, but not for sure if it will work

I do not plan on this full conversion this year, this is something I want to do in a year or too. Just getting all of the pieces together.

As far as the current state of the motor, I have not had time to dig any further with the bottom end. Maybe this weekend I will have some time.

 

Still not much progress on Reba, but did notice something significant when looking at the Rampage knuckles and the PT knuckles.

Rampage knuckle:

PT knuckle:

Notice the placement of the tie rod mount, and on PT it is placed far inboard? I was curious about this, and stumbled on a thread on PT Forums that explains there were three different knuckles for the PT's. I have the GT knuckles, which have them drilled inboard, and N/A have them drilled more outboard. Basically comes down to steering ratio vs turning radius. The GT knuckles as I have, have a better turning radius, but less steering ratio. The N/A knuckles with the mount drilled more outboard have better steering ratio, but less turning radius.

Full thread can be found here.

 

I was also able to find a 523 out of a '93 Caravan. Was located in Roswell, and my wife just happened to be driving through Roswell last week for work. Timing was about perfect for this.

Even though the '92 and '93 had a final ratio of 3.77, which is high for a turbo, the 5th ratio is .71:1, which get and overall of 2.68:1. The 525 has overall of 2.56:1, but also I think this will be a better fit than a 568 (2.73:1) or 555 (2.73:1) for a DD. Also combined with my taller 225/60 tires which are 25.6" tall compared to the 195/60 which are 24.2" tall, should get me pretty close to the 2.56:1 of the 525.

Overall I think this will get me great daily drivability without having the low ratios of the 555/568. Thanks again for the Donovan page for information on these transmissions also this thread on a 523 swap.

 

What I have found is the 3.77 523's work fine except out at the dragstrip it has one peculiarity (in my case at least). The gearing drop from top of third to forth is pretty steep. I found running a 2.5t that I had to run a bit more RPM at the top of third gear than I normally do to avoid the rather large drop in RPM's going into 4th. On my car it would fall out of it's ideal powerband without winding 3th gear out a bit longer. Other than that, They seem like a really nice tranny. Using a 2.2t, results may differ.
I replaced a a413 auto in a 89 ES shadow with the 92 3.77 FD 523 and my mileage jumped like 5-6 MPG on the hwy! Driving the car after the auto swap and the car felt like a completely different car. One of the best mods I've ever done. Sort of wish I hadn't sold that car, as it was a really good solid car in a ultra rare color.

 

What I have found is the 3.77 523's work fine except out at the dragstrip it has one peculiarity (in my case at least). The gearing drop from top of third to forth is pretty steep. I found running a 2.5t that I had to run a bit more RPM at the top of third gear than I normally do to avoid the rather large drop in RPM's going into 4th. On my car it would fall out of it's ideal powerband without winding 3th gear out a bit longer. Other than that, They seem like a really nice tranny. Using a 2.2t, results may differ.
I replaced a a413 auto in a 89 ES shadow with the 92 3.77 FD 523 and my mileage jumped like 5-6 MPG on the hwy! Driving the car after the auto swap and the car felt like a completely different car. One of the best mods I've ever done. Sort of wish I hadn't sold that car, as it was a really good solid car in a ultra rare color.
View attachment 281011

Can I deliver my Rampage to you, and get it to look as stunning as each one of yours? I have never seen a Shadow in that yellow. What did they call that?

Since you brought up the ratios, I took a look closer at the 1-4 ratios, and there are some peculiar differences. When I was driving Reba in town, at first when I was at a standing still I would go 1-2, but you know, damn thing is so notchy. So I thought, how about if I just start from 2? Pulled very nice from standing stop in 2, and up to 3 for town driving, also eliminate that frustrating short shift when making a turn from a stop. Just start in 2 and pull all way through a turn and down the road. (Also this is a pretty weak 2.2, cannot wait to see when it is freshened up) Also, if I remember correctly, the Shadow is about 500lbs more than a Rampage, but it has the 2.5, so I think this would even the field between a 2.5 Shadow and 2.2 Rampage.

Looking at the 1st gear, the 523 is pretty low at 3.31 vs the 525 at 3.29. Factor that in with a fresh rebuild, I doubt I will hardly use 1 in daily driving. That is like a granny low. And you are correct about that 3-4 step in the 523, going from 1.36 to .97, which IMO is very steep for 4th gear. To me, a 4th gear should be a 1:1, and the 5 being the OD gear. Looking at all of the late 5 speeds, this is what Mopar chose for 4th, almost a 4th overdrive. Definitely agree, for a DD, the 523 is a very good transmission, but for the 1320, I think it would be a poor choice, the 1st is a bit too low, and the 3-4 makes it difficult on the top end.

Looking at the 555 or 568, they have a taller 1st, great for getting out of the hole and the 3-4 are pretty close to keep it in the band at the top end, definitely a better 1320 transmission.

 

Your interior pics remind me a LOT of the 72-73 Pierre Cardin interiors on the AMC Javelin/AMX. headliner, seats, door panels all got the wild colors and patterns. Yes too bad this wasn't saved. You can't save them all I guess...

pierre cardin javelin interior - Google Search

My old bosses wife got one for a graduation gift in 1972.

IIRC, only the 89 555 can be used as a hybrid with a 90 523 to form a 3.50 FD geared 568.
Yes, you can use a 523 combined with a 568. You need to use the speed gears from the 568 on the 523 intermediate shaft as it basically contains what is the pinion gear. Then of course the ring gear from the 523 and input shaft from the 568 would need to be used.

Since I've done this a couple times, I ended up with a bunch of parts. So I put together at hybrid doing the opposite. I have a 89 555 case that has 523 speed gears on a 555 intermediate shaft. 523 large spline input shaft and 3.85 4 pinion carrier. Someday, someone when I'm long gone and pushing up daisies, is going to be scratching their head, trying to figure out what this tranny is and what clutch will fit it (lol)! I'll get the last laugh! Seriously, it will be a more robust 520 tranny with big spline input shaft and 4 pinion carrier along with the deeper 3.85:1 gear. Not a bad way to use parts laying around in the basement.

Your options on trannys basically come down to what year cores you have. The unusual ones are HO engines using the 525's had a 3.87:1 FD and the 520, 523's and 543's in the minvans used the 3.85:1 FD's instead of the 3.50:1 FD during certain years because of their bulk. Then as we've mentioned the speed gear ratios changed around a bit during the 520/523/555/568 over the years. The 92+ 523 is a pretty decent tranny that can withstand quite a bit of HP run through it, esp when a 1st gen Neon LSD is added to it. Many people think it is almost as strong as it's big brother the 568.
Later,

 

Your options on trannys basically come down to what year cores you have. The unusual ones are HO engines using the 525's had a 3.87:1 FD and the 520, 523's and 543's in the minvans used the 3.85:1 FD's instead of the 3.50:1 FD during certain years because of their bulk. Then as we've mentioned the speed gear ratios changed around a bit being the 520/523/555/568 over the years. The 92+ 523 is a pretty decent tranny that can withstand quite a bit of HP run through it, esp when a 1st gen Neon LSD is added to it. Many people think it is almost as strong as it's big brother the 568.

If I am reading this clearly, the only way to change final drive ratios is to change the intermediate? You cannot just get a different ring gear?

I pried into your Sale Ad, very curious, what did that intercooler come out of? Also noticed the coil setup? Interested to know more about that.

 

You really have a knack with getting these engines to run HARD, it seems with little effort. Your times, with a 5 speed, that car are amazing. ANY street auto would have a hard time staying that consistent. I admire your work!